It’s all too easy for a simple workshop job to escalate into a time-consuming odyssey.

We’ve all been there. From rounding a bolt or taking on a job that’s deceptively hard to simply misplacing a tool, bike maintenance can quickly become frustrating.

To ease your maintenance woes, we’ve put together a list of 15 common home maintenance mistakes so you can avoid any unneeded trips to the bike shop.

1. Reaching for the limit screws first when adjusting gears

There are many variables to check when adjusting or indexing gears. While it might be tempting to reach for the limit screws, this isn’t the best place to start.

The limit screws prevent the rear derailleur from shifting the chain into the spokes or into the driveside chainstay. Provided they have been set up correctly and the derailleur hanger is not bent, in theory they will not need adjusting.

If your gears aren’t shifting optimally, checking the cable tension should be your first port of call. It’s also worth checking the condition of the cables for any fraying, or kinks or tears to the outers.

2. Not looking after your chain properly

The chain is one of the most critical components on your bike, so it’s worth looking after.

If you get into the habit of cleaning your chain regularly, your drivetrain will run smoothly and you’ll decrease the rate of chain wear.

It’s best to use a specific chain degreaser and chain lubricant for optimal results when looking after your chain.

3. Incorrect chain length or orientation

Sticking with chains, it’s important to install them correctly.

If the chain has been cut too short, you will struggle to shift into the largest cassette cog. The chain will likely snap and it can even rip the rear derailleur off as the chain puts too much strain on it.

If the chain is too long, it will sag or droop when using the smaller cassette cogs. This will make shifting less precise and the chain will contact the driveside chainstay.

When replacing a bicycle chain, it’s worth making sure the chain is installed in the correct orientation.

Some chains are designed to only be installed in one direction and it’s worth paying particular attention to the quick link, too. Again, the wrong orientation can lead to poor shifting and an increased risk of the chain snapping.

4. Riding with a poorly adjusted headset

If your bike’s headset is too lose, it can lead to a variety of problems.

If you can feel play or knocking when you apply the front brake and rock the fork back and forth, your headset is loose.

At best, this translates to poor steering, but at worst the knocking headset can cause severe damage to your fork steerer tube, particularly if it is carbon.

Carbon fibre cannot withstand abrasion and, over time, a loose headset bearing can start to wear away at the material, potentially causing catastrophic failure.

5. Quick-release skewers loose and in the wrong orientation

It’s common for the quick-release skewers to be installed too loose, too tight or in the wrong orientation.

A quick-release skewer shouldn’t require a Herculean effort to close – it should require enough tension that the lever leaves a slight imprint in the palm of your hand.

Quick-release skewers should also be oriented correctly.

The skewer handle should always be on the non-driveside of the bike (the only exception being a handful of disc brake frames with levered thru-axles that install from the driveside).

The handle should be positioned slightly past the fork blade in the direction of the drivetrain. On the rear, it should bisect the non-driveside chainstay and seatstay.

If the skewer is pointing forward or downward on the front, or towards the floor or back of the bike on the rear, you run the risk of it opening accidentally if you hit an obstacle or if another rider’s wheel gets caught in the skewer.

And never position the skewer against the fork or frame because it will make opening it again in the future a very difficult task.

6. Under- or over-inflating tyres

Riding with under- or over-inflated tyres is another common error. Too high and you’ll feel every vibration on the road or trail; too low and you’ll run the risk of punctures, compromised handling and a sluggish ride.

If you’re unsure on what pressure to inflate your tyres to, there will be a suggested range printed on the sidewall.

It’s a good idea to invest in one of the best bike pumps, because they will feature a gauge for precise inflation. It’s worth checking the tyre pressure before every ride. If you’re not sure what tyre pressure you should run, you could take a look at a tyre pressure calculator (we like Silca’s).

7. Under- or over-tightening bolts

Modern bicycles are subject to tight tolerances and the bolts that secure the various components need to be fastened correctly.

If a bolt is too loose or too tight, you run the risk of failure.

It is best to use a torque wrench whenever you adjust a bolt, particularly if the component or the surface it is clamping onto is carbon fibre. Carbon fibre, in particular, doesn’t like to be over-clamped and will fracture if over-tightened.

Many manufacturers list a recommended torque next to the bolt – do not exceed this.

It’s also worth ensuring any and all fasteners are sufficiently prepared with grease, threadlock or anti-seize, as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

8. Removing pedals with the outer chainring exposed

When you fit, remove or change bike pedals, it’s a good idea to have the chain in the biggest chainring.

Having the chain cover the sharp teeth of the chainring can help avoid any painful, knuckle-skinning experiences.

9. Not greasing pedal threads or over-tightening them

Sticking with pedals, make sure you apply some anti-seize to the pedal threads prior to installation.

If you don’t grease them, you’ll likely find it impossible to remove them in the future because they can seize in place.

It’s also critical to not over-tighten pedals, because the act of pedalling effectively tightens them.

10. Neglecting your seatpost

A seized seatpost can spell all manner of trouble. It’s an easy component to forget about, given you rarely need to adjust it once you’ve correctly set your saddle height.

In the worst-case scenario, you’ll need to enlist the specialist services of a seatpost removal company (yes, these actually exist).

It’s best to remove the seatpost twice a year and give it a clean. If the seatpost and frame are metal, make sure you apply some anti-seize during installation. If any of the components are carbon fibre, you’ll need to use carbon fibre grip instead.

11. Resting a bike on its driveside

If the bike is leaned on the driveside, there’s an increased likelihood of the derailleur hanger bending.

The derailleur hanger is a sacrificial part in between the frame’s dropout and rear derailleur and is designed to bend or break to save your frame.

If a derailleur hanger is bent, it can lead to  poor and inaccurate shifting, with the chain potentially derailing into the spokes or driveside chainstay.

12. Not replacing bar tape

Regularly replacing your handlebar tape may not seem like an important maintenance job, but if you ride frequently or you’re into indoor cycling, it’s wise to do this once or twice a year.

If your handlebar is metal, the salt in your sweat can lead to oxidisation. In extreme cases, it’s not unheard of to witness handlebars failing due to corrosion.

By removing your old bar tape, you can periodically inspect your handlebar, and you’ll also avoid the thoroughly unpleasant task of unravelling crusty old tape.

13. Riding without bar end plugs

Whether you have a drop handlebar or a flat mountain bike handlebar, we really can’t recommend riding with bar end plugs enough. These are a safety feature and not simply cosmetic.

If you were to fall off when cycling, an unplugged handlebar end will effectively act as a cookie cutter into your sternum, or worse.

If your bar end plug falls out regularly, you could try applying some double-sided tape on its inside. Alternatively, you can upgrade to one that clamps in place with an expanding bung.

14. Not servicing suspension

Suspension requires regular servicing to perform in tip-top condition.

The components that make up the fork or shock are always moving when you ride, and the oils and seals should be kept fresh and clean.

Servicing suspension stops any grit and grime that’s made its way into your shock or fork from causing any damage.

Suspension manufacturers include recommended specific service intervals, so it’s well worth keeping a note of when you should next give your suspension some TLC.

15. Using poor-quality tools

The age-old adage “Buy cheap, buy twice” couldn’t be more true in the world of bicycle tools.

A worn or poor-quality tool could lead to rounding a bolt, marring an interface, even breaking a component or the tool itself.

Higher-quality tools will be manufactured to tighter tolerances, ensuring a snug and precise fit for the relevant job at hand.

What other maintenance mistakes have you made? Let us know your maintenance mishaps in the comments.

The post 15 common home maintenance mistakes (and how to avoid them) appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Knowing how to check your bicycle chain for wear can prevent you from being stranded on the roadside with a broken chain, keep your drivetrain running efficiently, and, in the long run, save you money.

In this guide, we’ll take a look at what chain wear is, why it matters and how to prevent it from costing you money in the long run.

What pieces make up a chain?

A bicycle chain is made up of lots of individual pieces. These include the pin (also known as the rivet), outer links, inner links, bushing and roller.

On most modern chains, the bushing is integrated with the inner plate and holds in the circular roller.

Each chain link is joined onto the next, alternating between outer plate and inner plate. A whole chain link is commonly thought of as one segment of outer and inner plate together.

A chain has a 0.5in (12.7mm) spacing between pins. This is the chain ‘pitch’ and is an industry standard on multi-speed bikes.

In this article, we’re only referring to standard ‘derailleur’-type multi-speed bicycle chains.

What is chain wear?

Chain wear is commonly referred to as ‘chain stretch’, because the chain’s pitch grows in length as it wears. This is the most important type of chain wear, and the growth comes from the bushings wearing with the chain pins. Over time, the inner diameter of these bushings increases and the pins groove out.

It’s often stated that a chain is worn once it reaches one per cent growth from the original 0.5in (12.7mm) pitch.

Another type of chain wear is ‘slop’. This isn’t as easy to measure, but it is common with riders who don’t put a lot of torque into their drivetrain, or perhaps spin a higher cadence.

Worn-out rollers increase the side-to-side play in the chain. As a result, the shifting is sloppier because the shifting ramps of the cassette or chainring need to work harder to derail the chain onto the desired cog.

It’s important though to bear in mind that chain slop won’t wear out other components.

The rate at which a chain wears depends on a plethora of factors. These include the discipline of riding and the terrain, the model of chain, which gears you ride in and how you change gear. Arguably, the most significant factor is how you maintain your chain.

Why should I care about chain wear?

Chain wear will lead to poor shifting and lost efficiency. Additionally, a severely worn chain is weaker, and there’s nothing fun about a snapped chain.

Perhaps most importantly though, chain wear can cost you a lot of money if left too long.

There are knock-on effects for the rest of your bike, too. A worn chain can wear the cassette and ultimately any chainrings  on your crankset. Cassettes and chainrings are typically more expensive than chains, so costs can escalate quickly if a worn chain is not replaced in time.

A new chain at a 0.5in pitch is designed to sit deep into the cog. As the pitch increases, the chain rolls higher up on the tooth and causes rapidly increased cog wear as the point of contact is reduced. Too much wear, and the chain will start skipping over the top of the cog.

Provided you replace the chain before it passes its wear limit, it’s possible to run multiple chains on your bike without having to replace your cassette or chainrings. For the majority of drivetrains, that is far more economical than having to replace the cassette and chainrings every time you need a new chain. This is especially true when considering the cost of a cassette on some groupsets.

How do I measure a chain for wear?

Chain wear is best measured using a specific chain checker tool, but it’s possible to use an accurate ruler or tape measure.

Using a ruler, a new chain should measure exactly 12 inches across 12 links, from middle of pin to middle of pin. The number most commonly agreed on for a worn chain is one per cent elongation between links. In reality though, you should replace the chain before this point.

So, therefore, anything past 12 1/16in (0.5 per cent) would be the time to replace a chain. Anything past 12 1/8in (one per cent) has been worn to death and so a new cassette is likely needed.

Holding a ruler perfectly straight while lining it up to measure 1/8in is difficult, and chain checker tools provide a far simpler and quicker ‘go or no-go’ result.

Whichever way you choose to measure a chain, be sure to not include the quick link, if you have one installed because they wear slower than conventional links.

Typical chain checker tools are the easiest way to check a chain for wear. The tool drops into your chain, giving you a quick ‘go’ or ‘no-go’ gauge result.

Different tools are intended to show you different levels of chain wear, showing if the chain has stretched by 0.5 per cent, for instance. Many will be double-sided, giving you two readings.

If a chain is worn, the two ends of the tool will fall into the chain links and it will sit flush with the chain.

If the chain is okay, the tool will sit above the chain.

More expensive chain checkers can produce more precise readings. The most expensive tools are digital and work by installing the chain checker into the chain and opening up the tool until it hits the end of the link.

Not all chain checkers are compatible with the Flattop chains SRAM uses on its road and gravel eTap AXS 12-speed drivetrains. This is because the chains use oversized rollers. SRAM has a compatibility document on which tools will work.

How often should I replace my chain?

Different chains will have different wear limits, and with drivetrains now offering up to 13 speeds, there is a lot of variation in how worn a chain can be.

A 6 to 10-speed chain should be replaced when it measures 0.75 per cent on a chain checker. If it is stretched to 1 per cent, the cassette should be replaced with it.

11 to 13-speed chains should be replaced at 0.5 per cent on a chain checker. The chain and cassette should be replaced if it has stretched to 0.75 per cent.

Chains don’t wear evenly, so for the most accurate result, it’s best to take measurements on at least three different parts of the chain.

It’s worth noting that the manufacturer’s recommended wear limit can differ from the above.

Unfortunately, riding distance is not an accurate indicator of chain wear, and keeping a check on measurement is the best way to know if you should replace your chain.

Getting into a routine of regularly cleaning your bike chain will stop contaminants building up, which can act as a grinding paste in the drivetrain and accelerate the rate of wear. As well as degreasing and cleaning the chain, you need to dry it and then apply chain lubricant.

It’s worth incorporating checking your chain for wear into your maintenance regime.

You could also wax your chain, which can further protect it from wear-increasing contaminants. However, chain waxing is time-intensive and requires investment in kit and supplies.

What if my chain is already worn?

Exactly how much wear your chain has will dictate your available options. On terribly worn drivetrains, the teeth of the cogs will begin to look hooked from the chain wearing high on them. 

If you’re at this point, replacing just the chain isn’t really an option. Instead, you will have to replace the chain, cassette and likely your chainrings. 

If you continue to ride with an excessively worn chain, you also run the risk of it snapping. 

If your chain is slightly past the wear limit, you may be able to get away with replacing just the chain. Simply fit a new chain and if you experience any skipping on the cassette or chainrings, you know the old chain has worn the cassette and chainring and these now need to be replaced. 

If you continue to run a new chain on an old cassette or chainring, the chain will wear prematurely. 

There are some exceptions, such as on cheaper bikes, where it’s more economical to let the chain and cassette wear together and replace both in one go. It’s worth familiarising yourself with how much the particular components on your bike retail for before deciding your chain-replacement strategy. 

What is the best chain checker?

There are strong opinions on what style of chain checkers work, and which ones cause premature wear readings. Some claim chain checkers are susceptible to false reading by taking into account roller movement by pushing the pieces in opposite directions.

Drop-in style chain checkers from the likes of Shimano and Pedro isolate roller wear by measuring pin wear in the same direction. They are viewed widely as being accurate across all brands and speeds of chains.

Chain tension can affect the wear reading because the more tension you put through it, the higher the wear reading. On some of the newer style of chain-checking tools, such as Park Tool’s CC-4, the reading the tool supplies is also subject to hand pressure.

A dirty, or thickly lubricated chain will likely show as less worn than a clean chain, so for the most accurate wear reading, it’s worth cleaning your chain.

When comparing Shimano’s CN-42 checker to the likes of a Park Tool CC-3.2 and a KMC Digital gauge, we found the results to be broadly similar, signalling wear at about the 0.75 per cent point. For the identical Shimano Ultegra 11-speed chain, the KMC digital chain checker showed 0.89 per cent.

Ultimately, it’s more accurate to check a chain for wear using a specific tool than not to. A drop-in style tool will do the job well for almost all riders, but others will deem the increased accuracy of a digital gauge worth the price.

The post Bicycle chain wear explained | How to know when to replace a bike chain appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Knowing how to remove and replace the cassette (the cogs on the rear wheel) on your bike is an important and easy task that any home mechanic should get familiar with.

Why would you want to remove your cassette? Well, if you ride your bike a lot and you don’t clean it as frequently as you ought to, your cassette can wear out.

Or, if you want to rectify your wrongdoings and clean your bike more thoroughly (you should), this is a good way to get into the bits you can’t normally reach.

Changing your cassette can also enable you to switch to different gearing, perhaps making it easier or harder for your local terrain or a specific event. All of these reasons will necessitate your cassette (and possibly chain) coming off.

It’s worth having a cassette tool and chain whip in your tool kit for all of the above reasons. You don’t need the top-spec tools that can cost more than some bikes. For the amount you’ll use them, it’s just not worth it. However, don’t buy the cheapest ones either – you may bend them within a handful of uses.

Do your research, or ask the mechanics at your local shop. As always, if you go to them for advice, do the right thing and buy there too.

We’ve split this guide into two separate sections to cover both Shimano / SRAM HG and Campagnolo cassettes and SRAM XD / XDR cassettes.

Tools required

• Chain whip
• Cassette lockring tool
• Grease, ideally lithium 
• Torque wrench and cassette lockring socket (optional)

How to install Shimano, SRAM HG and Campagnolo cassettes

The following steps are relevant to all Shimano / SRAM HG and Campagnolo cassettes.

Cassettes from after-market manufacturers such as Microshift or Sunrace often install in the same way too.

Step 1

Shift the chain into the smallest cog on the cassette. Open the quick release or unwind the thru-axle and take the wheel out of the bike.

To remove the cassette, you must loosen the lockring. This requires a special splined tool, which is specific to your brand of cassette. Shimano and SRAM share the same lockring tool across both their HG and XD / XDR cassettes. Campagnolo cassettes use a different lockring because they have a different spline pattern.

Because the lockring unwinds in the same direction the freewheel spins, you need to use a chain whip (in this case a plier type is used) to counter the loosening motion.

Removing the lockring will require a lot of force – it’s not something you want coming undone mid-ride. 

Step 2

Remove the lockring and then pull the old cassette towards you to remove it from the freewheel. If you want to keep the old one, it’s a good idea to zip-tie it all together in order.

If you are finding it difficult to remove and are using a lockring without a handle, you could use an adjustable spanner for extra leverage. Alternatively, you could use a lockring tool on a socket with a breaker bar.

It’s also a good idea at this stage to check the condition of your freehub. If it has been deeply gouged by the cogs biting into the body, it may be due a replacement, but this is less of an issue these days because most cassettes are mounted onto a wide-bodied cog carrier.

It’s also worth checking the condition of both the freehub and hub bearings at this stage.

Step 3

At this point, it’s a good idea to give your freehub a thorough clean and then give the body a very light coating of grease. This can prevent steel cogs from corroding in place on an alloy freehub body. 

Slide the new cassette on, in order, making sure you line up all the splines.

There will be one wider gap on the rear of each cog, which you need to line up with the double or wider spline on the freewheel.

It’s impossible to incorrectly align a cog because it’s designed to only fit in one orientation. 

If you are running a cassette with fewer speeds than the freehub is designed for, you may need to install a spacer before proceeding to slide the new cassette on.

Step 4

Take the lockring and fit it to the front of the cassette. Screw it gently into place by hand initially. Tighten the lockring sufficiently to hold the cassette in place.

It’s important to do this step because it’s very easy to strip or crossthread the locking with the additional leverage the locking tool provides.

Step 5

You don’t need the chain whip for this step because you will be tightening in a clockwise direction and the freewheel will provide resistance.

Tighten to the manufacturer-recommended torque, using a suitable socket, and don’t be tempted to overtighten because it can damage the freehub body’s threads and you may want to take it off again some day…

How to install a SRAM XD / XDR cassette

SRAM introduced the XD freehub standard on its 11-speed mountain bike groupsets and later the XDR freehub for gravel and road bike groupsets.

It uses a different design to accommodate the 10-tooth cog. Conventional HG freehubs can only accommodate cogs as small as 11-tooth.

All the tools required to fit a Shimano HG cassette can be used for SRAM XD / XDR too. The difference is that, unlike an HG cassette, a SRAM XD / XDR cassette is one piece.

It slides onto the freehub body, where it then interlocks with a spline system at the rear of the driver before threading into place.

The removal process is identical to an HG cassette, only the lockring is integrated into the cassette.

Before installing the new cassette, it’s imperative to apply a thin layer of grease on the freehub body threads.

Like any threaded interface, a SRAM XD / XDR cassette may seize if this is not greased. This can make future removal very laborious.

Once greased, slide the cassette onto the freehub body and rotate until the cassette engages with the splines.

If you are installing an XD cassette onto an XDR freehub body, make sure you install a 1.85mm spacer first.

Using a cassette lockring tool, start to tighten the lockring. The threads are very fine and easy to cross-thread.

Once you’ve tightened the lockring, torque it to 40Nm.

Other considerations

You’re now good to go. If you’ve fitted a larger or smaller cassette, you may need to adjust the B-tension on your rear derailleur.

Also, remember you can only fit a like-for-like replacement in terms of the ‘speed’ of your cassette – i.e. you cannot replace a 9-speed cassette with a 10-speed one.

The post How to replace your cassette appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Knowing how to fit a bicycle chain is an essential skill for any home mechanic.

Chains are one of the consumable parts of your drivetrain and wear with use over time.

You can slow down drivetrain wear by staying on top of maintenance, such as cleaning your chain regularly and checking it for wear using a chain-checker. If you allow the chain to wear out past its limit, you’ll then likely need to replace your cassette and possibly chainrings.

In this guide, we’ll take you through the process of replacing a chain. The steps below are relevant to road bike and mountain bike groupsets and any differences in procedure between the different platforms are highlighted below.

What you will need:

• Protective gloves
• Chain breaker tool
• Quick link pliers (if your chain uses a quick link)
• Piece of broken spoke or zip tie (optional)
• A new chain
• Chain lubricant (not essential)

How to check chain compatibility

Chains come in different speeds and are often drivetrain-specific.

Make sure to check the new chain is compatible with your drivetrain. Generally, 9-speed chains and under are cross-compatible, with the exception of Campagnolo.

This is also generally the case with 10-speed chains, again with the exception of Campagnolo. It’s important to note 10-speed Shimano chains are road and mountain-bike specific.

There is some wiggle room with 11-speed between Shimano and SRAM road chains, but it’s generally advisable to stick with the manufacturer and the respective road, gravel or mountain bike line.

When it comes to 12- and 13-speed drivetrains, there is almost no cross-compatibility between brands, so it’s best to stick with the manufacturer and groupset genre.

A note on chain breaker tools

The majority of chain tools are compatible with chains up to and including 11-speed. If you’re running a 12- or 13-speed drivetrain, make sure the chain breaker is compatible.

If you’re running a Campagnolo groupset, with the exception of Ekar and its C-Link quick-link variant, you’ll need to use a chain breaker with a peening function.

If you’re running a SRAM eTap AXS road groupset with a Flattop chain design, you’ll also need to check compatibility because the chain width and roller size varies and won’t work with a conventional chain breaker tool. SRAM has a compatibility document on which tools will work.

How to replace a bicycle chain

Before working on your bike, make sure you’re wearing suitable workshop clothing and nitrile gloves.

Shift the rear derailleur into the smallest cog on the cassette, then release the clutch mechanism on the rear derailleur if it has one.

If your bike uses a front derailleur, make sure you also shift into the big chainring. This will make removing the old chain easier.

Some like to remove the rear wheel before removing the chain. This takes tension off the chain, which will make it easier to remove and install. Note that you’ll need to re-install it so you have the cassette as a reference point for sizing.

How to remove a bike chain

Locate the quick link or joining pin that holds your chain together.

A quick link will have a set of unique interlocking side plates and can also sometimes be a different colour for easier identification.

A joining pin will generally be a different colour to the rest of the rivets. Shimano and some other brands’ joining pins can also be identified by a raised ring around the outside circumference of the pin.

In this example, we’ll be fitting a Shimano HG-7100 12-speed chain onto a full-suspension mountain bike and a road bike.

If your chain uses a quick link, insert a quick link removal plier on either side of the quick link’s pins.

Squeeze the pliers and the link should come undone. This can sometimes require force, particularly on non-reusable quick-links.

If the chain is destined for the bin and you don’t have a suitable removal plier, you can use a chain breaker to drive out one of the rivets, rather than unlocking the quick link.

If your chain uses a joining pin, you’ll need to use a chain breaker tool to remove it.

Using the tool, drive out one of the rivets.

Make sure you hold the chain and tool straight to avoid driving the pin out at an angle and causing damage to the tool.

With the quick link or joining pin now removed, you can carefully remove the chain, either pedalling it so it comes off the chainring or feeding it through the rear derailleur.

You may want to use a cloth or rag to protect the driveside chainstay and stop the chain from slapping on it as it’s removed.

How to size a new bike chain

Now the old chain has been removed, it can be discarded.

Most quality bicycle workshops will have a metal bin so your chain can be recycled. You could take it to your local workshop to be kinder to the environment.

New chains typically ship longer than required and need to be cut to size to suit your bike and drivetrain combination. There can be some exceptions, such as tandems or high-pivot mountain bikes, which require multiple chains.

Some users like to use the old chain as a reference point to cut the new chain to length.

This method is perfectly valid, but it assumes the worn chain was originally cut to the correct length.

If you know this to be the case and you are not changing your cassette or crankset to a different size, you could use this method.

Alternatively, before removing the chain, you could check it’s the correct length using the methods below.

Rather than put the old and new chain together side by side, it’s best to match the number of outer and inner links together, bearing in mind the old chain will have elongated through wear. This can easily add up to a full chain link’s length, or more.

It is important the chain is the correct length so that it can operate in any gear.

If it is too long, the chain will sag in the smallest gears and could cause damage. If it’s too short, it will put strain on the rear derailleur and hanger, potentially ripping both of the components off the frame.

When installing a chain, check to see if it’s directional. There may be writing on one side of the chain, or there might be an arrow indicating the chain’s direction of travel.

There are different ways of sizing a chain, and we’ll go through some of the most common methods here.

Remember, if you’re using a quick link, you will need to have inner links at either end of the chain.

If your chain connects via a joining pin, the chain will need to have an inner link at one end and an outer link at the other. A joining pin chain should also be routed with the outer link leading towards the crankset from the cassette.

The sizing of Campagnolo 12-speed groupsets also differs. This is explained below.

A note on full-suspension mountain bikes

For full-suspension mountain bikes, you will need to check the length of chain needed doesn’t change as your suspension is compressed. For this, measure the distance from the centre of the crank to the centre of the rear axle.

Now release the air (or remove the spring) from the rear shock and take this measurement again. Size the chain in relation to the longest of these two measurements.

Sizing a chain using the ‘small-small’ method

For 2x and 3x drivetrains, the most accurate method of sizing a chain is to fit the new chain on the smallest cog of the cassette and smallest chainring.

Though you would never ride in this gear, it is the most accurate because it calculates the longest possible length the chain can be.

If you are running an electronic groupset, you may find you’re restricted from putting the chain into this gear – if so, use the ‘big-big’ method, which is explained below.

The chain will need to be routed correctly through the rear derailleur, making sure it passes through both pulley wheels. Take note of any tabs in the derailleur cage and make sure the chain is on the correct side of them.

With the chain in place, pull the two ends towards each other until the derailleur cage starts to move. At this point, you know the cage is tensioning the chain, so it won’t sag or rub on either the pulley wheels or itself where it’s routed over the upper pulley.

With the length determined, you can then cut the chain at the point where the links overlap.

If you are using a quick link and the point at which the chain overlaps doesn’t match (ie, if it overlaps an outer link), move onto the next available inner link and cut there.

This is also the case for a joining pin, where you need to match the outer link with an inner.

You can partially install the quick link (without clicking it into place) or feed the joining pin through the rivet, but don’t push it in to check it is the correct length. You could also test the length by manually shifting into the big chainring and largest cassette cog to confirm it will work in this gear.

Sizing a chain using the ‘big-big’ method

This method entails wrapping the uncut chain around the largest cassette tooth and largest chainring, making sure to bypass the derailleurs.

Pull the two ends of the chain together tightly and add four additional links. If the link you need to cut is an outer link and you will be using a quick link, cut the chain at the next available rivet – this is also the case if you are using a joining pin.

You can mark the point where you need to cut the chain using a whiteboard marker.

Using a chain breaker, cut the chain to the correct length.

Then, install the chain properly, making sure it takes the correct route through the derailleurs.

Campagnolo chain sizing

Campagnolo’s suggested method for chain sizing differs across each of its groupsets.

For chains 11-speed and under, Campagnolo recommends the ‘small-small’ method, but says the distance between the chain when it is under the top pulley wheel should be between 8 and 15mm.

You can use an 8mm hex key as a reference point to check if it at least fits in the gap.

For its 12-speed chains, the Italian brand dictates chain sizing by your bike’s chainstay length, regardless of your cassette or chainring ratios.

Take a tape measure from the centre of your crankset and measure to the centre of the rear dropout.

If your chainstay length is between 405 and 415mm, the chain length should be 110 links. If it’s over 415mm, the chain length should be 112 links.

For Campagnolo Ekar, the brand recommends the ‘big-big’ method.

How to join a new chain using a quick link or joining pin

For chains that use a joining pin, you may want to apply some chain lubricant to the joining pin, prior to installation.

The joining pin installs into the chain from the inside face of the chain towards you.

When the pilot of the pin is broken off at the end, it can leave a small burr and installing the pin in this direction avoids the burr contacting the inside of the cassette teeth, where it could create additional noise.

Take the two ends of the chain and insert the pin between them.

If you’re finding it difficult to join both ends of the chain together due to the tension of the rear derailleur, you can either hold the derailleur cage down with one hand, or use a bent spoke or zip tie.

Use the chain tool to drive the pin in, being careful to stop once it is seated. There will be two points of resistance and you want to make sure the depth is matched with the neighbouring rivets.

When the pin is in place, you can snap off the end with pliers. Many chain breakers have this function built into the tool.

If you’re installing a Campagnolo joining pin, it requires peening once installed. You’ll need to make sure your chain tool is compatible.

For chains featuring a quick link, take the two ends of the chain and insert the connector links by hand. You can now snap the plates together and the chain will be joined.

Quick link pliers can be used for this, but another way is to pedal the master link through until it is sitting above the chainstay.

Pull the rear brake on and pedal downward. You should hear a loud click, signalling it’s seated in place. It’s worth a final visual check too.

Once the chain is connected, you should run your bike through a full range of gears to make sure it’s working correctly.

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Quick links can be used to hold your chain together, making your life a whole lot easier when it comes to maintenance, cleaning or getting you home should your chain break out on a ride.

In this guide, we’ll take a look at what a quick link is, the question of whether you can reuse them and compatibility, as well as walking you through a guide on how to remove and install them.

What is a quick link?

A quick link replaces a chain link with a pair of interlocking plates with in-built pins that can be installed or removed without a chain breaker. This allows a chain to be easily removed, for example if you’re going to thoroughly clean your chain off the bike or if you’re replacing your chain.

Quick links are sometimes known as a connecting pin, missing link, master link, power link or spare link. But, regardless of name, they all have the same function.

It is well worth carrying a quick link when you’re riding, perhaps in a saddlebag, just in case you’re unlucky enough to break your chain.

Can you use a quick link more than once?

Quick links can’t be used more than once, although there are some exceptions. This is because a quick link is weaker when reused and there is a greater possibility of it snapping – which is the last thing you’d want to experience out on a ride.

Many non-reusable quick-links require quite a lot of force to install and if you reuse one, you’ll notice that less force is required to lock the quick link into place.

Some riders and mechanics reuse quick links without issue, although you should consider the risks. If you’re going to reuse a link, bear in mind the force it takes to remove or install the quick link compared to how it was originally and replace it if it’s significantly looser.

Shimano and Campagnolo don’t manufacture reusable quick links.

SRAM’s 8- and 9-speed PowerLinks can be reused, but its 10-, 11- and 12-speed PowerLocks are non-reusable. SRAM says the ridge that joins the two plates of the PowerLock together can be damaged when unlocking it.

KMC, an after-market brand, offers both reusable and non-reusable ‘Missing Links’ in its range. The quick links are manufacturer and speed-specific, so make sure you get the right one for your drivetrain.

YBN’s reusable quick links are said to be good for up to five uses.

Wippermann’s Connex quick link uses a different hooked design rather than a locking fit. Wippermann says its quick link can be reused many times, in addition to being removed and installed without tools.

Many of KMC, YBN and Wippermann’s quick links are compatible with groupsets from the Big Three.

Quick link compatibility

SRAM was the first big groupset brand to release a quick link, when it released the PowerLink on its 8- and 9-speed systems and PowerLock on its 10-speed system.

Shimano and Campagnolo steadfastly stuck to joining pins for their chains.

Shimano took a long time to bring out a quick link, but it finally released one in June 2017.

Campagnolo waited three more years, releasing its first quick link in September 2022.

Called the C-Link, Campagnolo’s quick link was designed to work with its new 13-speed Ekar groupset. This is still the only quick link in Campagnolo’s range: it has not brought out quick links for its 11- and 12-speed groupsets, nor for any of its legacy products

How to install a quick link

If you’re installing a new chain from scratch, cut the chain to the correct length (bearing in mind you’ll need to add a quick link). Both ends of the chain will need to be open inner links. You can cut the chain to length using one of the best chain tools.

If you’re adding a quick link to a broken chain by the side of the road, you won’t need to worry about this first step.

Install each end of the quick link at either end of the chain. If the quick link is designed to travel in one direction, make sure you are installing it the correct way round.

On Shimano, the arrow should point towards the rear derailleur when it is underneath the driveside chainstay. The best way to think about SRAM Eagle is its moon-shaped quick link should be ‘smiling’ when it’s underneath the driveside chainstay.

Place the pins of the quick link in line with the larger holes on the opposing link and push the two halves together so they are engaged.

Pull the link so the pins slide into the smaller holes and the quick link closes. If the two sides aren’t engaged properly, the quick link will likely break.

Some people like to use a pair of dedicated quick link installation pliers to fit a quick link.

If you don’t have a pair, pedal the chain so it’s above the driveside chainstay. Pull the rear brake on and pedal downward. You should hear a loud click, signalling it’s seated in place. It’s worth a final visual check too.

Because a chain is under tension when fitted, it can be tricky to pull both ends of the chain together when installing a quick link.

If you’re finding it difficult to get the two ends together, either get a friend to hold the rear derailleur cage forward to give you some more slack, or use a chain retention device or a bent spoke to hold both ends of the chain together. If your bike has a clutch rear derailleur, turn the clutch off.

If the quick link isn’t moving freely, it’s worth dropping some chain lubricant on it to free it up.

How to remove a quick link

Removing a quick link is practically the same process as installing one, just in reverse.

It’s possible you will be able to remove 8- or 9-speed quick links by hand, simply squeezing the two plates together and sliding them apart. If the chain is unclean or the quick link is stiff, this can be a fiddly task.

Quick links in 10-, 11- or 12-speed chains require much more force to undo, due to the tighter tolerances on these chains. This means you’ll need to use removal pliers. Many brands, such as KMC, Park Tool and Shimano, make these tools.

If you’re replacing the chain entirely and you don’t have removal pliers, you can always use a chain breaker anywhere on the chain.

When using removal pliers, insert the tool on either side of the quick link’s pins. Squeeze the pliers and the link should come undone. This can sometimes require force, particularly on non-reusable quick-links.

Make sure to use a new quick link if the one you’ve removed is not reusable.

The post Quick links explained: compatibility, how to fit a quick link and can you use it more than once? appeared first on Ebikes Online.

The drivetrain on a bike enables you to pedal forward and typically change between gears, making it easier or harder for you to ride on a given gradient.

Here, we describe the different bike components that make up a drivetrain and explain their functions.

What is a drivetrain?

A drivetrain consists of the parts that help you to move the bike.

In a wider context, the drivetrain is part of the groupset, which also includes the shifters and brakes. The easiest way to understand the function of a groupset is that it contains the parts that enable you to move and stop.

Although the drivetrain doesn’t include the shifters, the shifters are the component that controls the drivetrain when you change gears.

What parts are in a bike’s drivetrain?

The drivetrain almost always consists of a series of bike components that work together to enable you to change into different gears.

It typically includes one or two derailleurs, mechanisms that change gear when actuated at the shifter.

The chain is an integral part of many drivetrains. It passes through the relevant derailleurs and over the cassette and crankset, which contain your gear ratios and act as a point for you to drive force through the system when you pedal.

Not all bikes feature gears, such as singlespeed bikes, and some bikes use alternative systems, such as belt drives.

1x vs 2x

There is an increasing trend for the best gravel bikes and best mountain bikes to feature 1x drivetrains rather than 2x drivetrains, which are typically found on road bikes.

A 2x drivetrain has two chainrings and a front derailleur, whereas a 1x drivetrain forgoes a front derailleur and uses a single chainring.

1x drivetrains save some weight because they have fewer components, and there is also no need for a gear cable or electrical wire to route from the shifter.

1x chainrings often feature a ‘narrow-wide’ profile where the teeth alternate between narrow and wide, to better hold the chain.

The rear derailleur on 1x drivetrains will often feature a clutch mechanism, which increases the weight of the component, to help retain the chain and stop it slapping on the driveside chainstay.

Crankset

The crankset (often referred to as the ‘chainset’ and sometimes ‘cranks’) is the centrepiece of the drivetrain.

The crankset helps you move the chain as you pedal, transferring force from your legs to the rest of the drivetrain and ultimately to your bike’s rear wheel, helping you move forward.

Cranksets comprise of two crank arms with chainrings that the chain runs over.

The bottom bracket bearings allow the crankset to rotate smoothly and freely.

The crankset typically includes an axle or spindle that holds the entirety of the crankset together. However, some crankset designs, particularly older ones, do not include an axle or spindle, and this is part of the bottom bracket, instead.

Chainrings

The chainrings are effectively your front gears and consist of teeth that hold the chain in place.

Bikes will typically feature between one and three chainrings.

It is worth considering the range of gears you would like to use in combination with your cassette.

Chainrings come in a range of sizes to suit all riding disciplines. The size of a chainring is determined by the number of teeth it has. For example, a 50-34 means the outer chainring consists of 50 teeth and the inner 34 teeth.

If you are running a 1x chainring, this will simply be listed as one number, such as 40t, denoting there are 40 teeth.

Cranks

The crankset comprises two crank arms, which the pedals are attached to via a threaded section.

Cranks can be of different lengths, typically from 165mm to 175mm, with longer lengths giving you more leverage.

Crank length is typically specced according to the size of bike, and corresponding height. However, leg lengths can vary across different heights, so this could be an area to explore for optimal performance.

Front derailleur

The front derailleur is the mechanism that moves the chain between the chainrings on the crankset. As its name suggests, it derails the chain from one chainring and pushes it onto another.

The front derailleur is actuated by the left-hand shifter on most shifting systems. There are some exceptions with electronic groupsets, where you can often customise which buttons shift what derailleur via their respective apps.

Bikes that feature a single chainring don’t have a front derailleur. This is quite common on mountain bikes and gravel bikes.

There are two different ways front derailleurs are mounted to the bike frame: band-on and braze-on.

Band-on derailleurs have a hinged metal part that fits around the seat tube of the frame.

Braze-on front derailleurs fix to a mounting plate that’s typically riveted onto the driveside face of the seat tube.

In terms of front-derailleur compatibility, you should stick with the manufacturer and series of the rest of your groupset.

Rear derailleur

The rear derailleur is the mechanism that shifts the chain at the cassette.

There are different types and designs of rear derailleur, but they all serve the same function and work in a similar way.

The component is actuated by the right-hand shifter on most groupset systems.

Rear derailleurs include a derailleur cage that houses pulley wheels (referred to in the UK as jockey wheels) that the chain wraps around.

Rear derailleurs will have a certain number of ‘speeds’ – generally from 7 up to 13.

Some rear derailleurs feature chain retention measures such as a clutch mechanism to prevent the chain from slapping on the driveside chainstay. This can be very useful when riding off-road and makes for a quieter ride.

Rear derailleurs typically attach to a bike’s frame via a derailleur hanger using a single bolt.

As with the front derailleur, you should stick with the manufacturer and groupset series your bike has because the cable pull (the amount a derailleur moves for every millimetre of cable pulled through by the shifter) of the shifter is specific to the rear derailleur.

Cassette

The cassette is a replaceable cluster of sprockets installed on the rear wheel. The rear derailleur moves the chain up or down the cogs.

Cassettes come in a wide range of sizes to suit all riding disciplines. The size of a cassette is usually expressed by quoting its smallest and largest cogs. For example, an 11-32 cassette means the smallest cog consists of 11 teeth and the largest 32.

Gravel and mountain bikes tend to have wider-ranging cassettes than road bikes. This is because gravel and mountain bikes tend to have 1x drivetrains and consequently the cassette has to provide easy gearing to winch yourself up steep climbs and gears that are big enough for fast riding on the flat and downhill.

Cassettes might have anything from 7 to 13 sprockets, depending on their intended use and manufacturer. The latest flagship road bike groupsets  and mountain bike groupsets from Shimano and SRAM feature 12-speed cassettes. Campagnolo also sticks to 12-speed cassettes on the road but its Ekar gravel groupset is 13-speed.

The cassette fits onto the freehub of the wheel. The inside of a cassette has notches that align with splines on the freehub.

Manufacturers and brands have different spline and cassette designs. It’s always worth checking you are buying the correct cassette for your freehub, or the right freehub for your cassette, when buying a new wheel. A full explainer on freehubs, how they work and their compatibility can be found in our guide to freehubs.

Chain

The chain is the component in your drivetrain that is subject to the most abuse, as it passes through all of the aforementioned components.

The chain is made up of a series of links, with most chains having alternating wide and narrow links in a pattern that repeats for the length of the chain.

Chains also have ‘speeds’ and you should use the correct chain for the number of speeds your groupset has. It’s also worth checking if a new chain is compatible with your specific groupset.

Chains wear through use. They stretch in length and side-to-side movement between links increases. They will often be the first part of the drivetrain that you need to replace.

If they are not replaced in time, chains can wear out the cassette and chainrings. These components are more expensive to replace than chains, so it’s worth keeping an eye on how worn your chain is and replacing it if need be.

We’ve got a detailed explainer on how to replace your chain.

Electric bike drivetrains

Electric bike drivetrains can sometimes differ from conventional, geared drivetrains on non-assisted bikes depending on the type of electric motor they use.

If a hub-based motor is used, electric bikes will almost always have a conventional, geared drivetrain.

If a bottom-bracket based motor is utilised, often found on the best electric bikes, then front derailleurs are often not compatible. The system will, therefore, use a 1x drivetrain. There are some exceptions, though.

Singlespeed and fixed-gear drivetrains

Singlespeed and fixie bikes have simpler drivetrains than other bikes without derailleurs, a cassette and shifters.

They typically consist of a wider chain, chainring and sprocket. They are more efficient because the chain doesn’t have to go through any derailleurs, which puts it at an angle and accelerates wear.

You’ll need to pick your preferred chainring and sprocket size wisely, based on the terrain you are riding.

Some singlespeed bikes feature freehubs, which allow you to coast, whereas others do not and you’ll have to keep pedalling no matter the gradient.

Belt-drive systems

Some bikes use a belt drive instead of a chain. These are particularly popular with commuters because they tend to be cleaner than chains and consequently diminish the risk of getting clothes dirty. They are also increasingly found on electric bikes.

Belt-drive systems forgo a cassette and chainrings. They require less maintenance because they’re not made of metal and thus do not need degreasing or lubrication.

Typically, these systems are quieter-running and more durable than other drivetrains, but they are less efficient, usually more expensive and spares can be difficult to find.

Hub gears

Hub gears are another popular drivetrain option and are often found on commuter bikes.

Rather than having derailleurs, the gears are incorporated into the hub of the rear wheel, resulting in less maintenance. However, they are heavier and maintenance is more difficult than derailleur gears.

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Disc brakes offer confidence-inspiring and consistent braking, even in wet weather.

They’re generally very reliable and durable components, but disc brakes can make a lot of noise if they’re not set up correctly or contaminated. That noise can sound like a ‘ting-ting-ting’ as you ride, or a squeal/squeak as you stop.

Want quiet disc brakes? In this guide, we’ll take you through the different reasons why your disc brakes may be noisy and how to silence them.

Why are my disc brakes noisy?

Disc brake noise can occur for a number of reasons. We’ll explain some of the common causes of squeaky disc brakes and provide some suggestions on how to resolve the problem.

When working with disc brakes, it’s always worth wearing a fresh pair of mechanic’s gloves or using a lint-free rag because the oils in your skin can contaminate the pads and rotor.

If you have any doubts as to your mechanical ability, take your bike to a reputable mechanic.

9 ways to stop disc brake noise

1. Poor alignment of the brake caliper

One of the most common reasons a disc brake is rubbing is the brake caliper is misaligned with the disc rotor.

It is imperative the caliper is centered properly. If it isn’t, the disc will scrape against either the brake pad or on the inside of the caliper body.

Admittedly, the tolerances on many disc brake systems have grown very fine and it can sometimes be a tricky task.

If your frame uses quick-release dropouts, make sure the wheel is installed correctly before making any adjustments to the brake. It is best to install the wheel on the floor rather than on a stand to allow gravity to centre it in place. If your bike uses thru-axles, you don’t need to worry about this step.

The easiest way to resolve the issue is to slightly loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper to the frame. There’s no need to undo them fully, just enough so the caliper is free to move. These are often 4 or 5mm hex bolts, or sometimes a T25 torx bolt.

Once you have loosened the bolts, spin the wheel and pull on the respective brake lever. Then, without releasing the brake lever, equally tighten the two bolts back up to the relevant torque spec and, fingers crossed, the problem will be solved.

This process repositions the caliper over the rotor and by holding the brake on, should cause the caliper to self-align.

It’s important you tighten the caliper to its full torque spec before releasing the lever. If you torque the bolt after releasing the lever, the effect of any final tightening can minutely move the caliper and then you’re back to square one.

If this technique hasn’t solved the issue, you can try to align the caliper by eye. If you’re working somewhere with little light, try putting a piece of white paper on the floor behind the caliper. The white paper will make it easier to align the caliper because it will make the space between the pads and rotor more visible.

If your disc brake still isn’t aligned after trying these steps, some manufacturers such as Birzman or Hayes have caliper-alignment tools in their range. These are essentially feeler gauges with metal either side of the same width, to create an equal space between the disc brake pads.

You fit caliper-alignment tools over the disc rotor in the loosened caliper. Once installed, pull on the brake lever and tighten the two bolts to the relevant torque spec. As long as the disc rotor isn’t bent, this often solves the problem.

If you own mechanical disc brakes, the setup procedure can be a little different. Most systems comprise of one moving disc brake pad and one static pad. You want to set the static pad as close to the disc rotor as possible and then fine tune the cable tension to ensure an optimal lever feel.

If the mechanical disc brakes are of a dual-piston design, such as the Tektro Spyre, then setup is largely the same as with hydraulic systems, in conjunction with setting the correct cable tension.

2. Pads contaminated

Your disc brakes will certainly be noisy if your brake pads are contaminated. Brake pads can be contaminated if you ride through oil on the roads, or if you accidentally get any degreaser or lubricant on them.

When you’re cleaning your bike, make sure you either cover your disc rotor and caliper or spray degreaser on the chain in a way that means it won’t get onto the rotor.

Providing the wind isn’t blowing in the rotor’s direction, you can spray degreaser on the chain just as it meets the crankset underneath the driveside chainstay, because this is the furthest point away from the disc brake system. In terms of cleaning disc brakes, it’s always best to use specific disc brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol.

You can alternatively use a chain-cleaning device to virtually eliminate the risk of pad contamination.

You’ll know if your pads are contaminated because when you come to a stop you’ll hear a squealing noise and the braking power will be reduced considerably.

The easiest way to resolve the problem is to scrupulously clean the disc rotor and brake caliper, and replace the pads.

If there is a lot of pad material left, you can burn off the contaminants using a blow torch or sand some material away. However, this doesn’t always work and is almost always more trouble than it’s worth.

3. Pad material

Disc brake pad material can have an effect on noise. Organic pads tend to run quieter than metallic pads.

If you decide to change your disc brakes pads from one material to another, make sure you use a new disc rotor that’s compatible with the pad material to ensure optimum performance.

It’s important to add that you should use the correct disc brake pad for the overall braking system.

4. Disc brakes aren’t bedded in

If disc brakes aren’t bedded in correctly, they can vibrate and cause noise.

Bedding in disc brakes is essential whenever you have bought a new bike or fitted new pads. The process transfers some of the pads’ material to the rotor, which allows the pad and rotor to ‘mate’ better and avoid any noise-inducing vibrations.

To bed your disc brake pads in, find a quiet area and ride at a walking pace and then apply both brakes evenly until you almost come to a stop. Then, release the brakes and repeat the process 10 to 15 times. You’ll feel braking power increase as you go through the cycle.

When you’re bedding in disc brakes, make sure you don’t pull on the brake levers too forcefully. This will lead to the brake stopping the wheel from turning and material won’t be transferred from the pad to the rotor evenly.

5. Pads are worn

Noise can be generated if your pads are worn.

If the pads are worn down to the bare metal, you’ll hear the sound of metal rubbing on the disc rotor.

You can generally check the condition of your pads by looking at the back of the brake caliper or by removing the wheel and checking how much pad material is left.

Campagnolo disc brake pads feature a visible wear indicator. These give an audible warning when reached, too.

When fitting new disc brake pads, make sure you scrupulously clean the disc rotor and caliper to stop any old contaminants making their way onto the new pads and to allow for the best bed-in procedure.

6. Disc rotor or brake caliper not torqued correctly

If your disc rotor or brake caliper aren’t correctly torqued, you’ll often hear a metallic clanging. You’ll likely find disc brake pad alignment impossible, too, because there will be play at the caliper or rotor from where they haven’t been securely fastened.

Make sure the disc rotor and brake caliper are tightened correctly. There will generally be a torque reading next to the component.

Centrelock rotors are typically torqued to around 40Nm using a cassette lockring tool.

To tighten a six-bolt disc rotor, it’s best to work in a star-shaped pattern. Start by tightening one bolt slightly, then move to the one opposite and tighten evenly. Next, evenly tighten the bolt next to the first bolt you started to tighten and then opposite and so on.

7. Bent disc rotor

A bent disc rotor is a common cause of noisy disc brakes.

To avoid this problem, make sure you don’t lean your bike by its disc rotor. This might sound simple, but it’s easy to accidentally bend disc rotors when you’re loading your bike into the car, for example.

To fix a bent disc rotor, carefully sight where the bend is in the rotor and simply bend it back with an appropriate rotor-bending tool. Avoid applying too much force because it’s easy to bend a rotor too far back the other way. It’s also important to avoid touching the disc rotor with your fingers because the oils on your skin can contaminate the disc rotor.

Some mechanics prefer to bend a rotor back by hand. This is because you are applying less force to the rotor compared to using a dedicated tool. If you decide to do this, hold the disc rotor with a lint-free cloth to avoid contamination.

If your rotor is bent in multiple places, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to make it straight again – or straight enough not to rub on the brake pads in the caliper. If this is the case, it’s best to replace the rotor.

8. Poor or overfilled bleed

If the brake fluid has been overfilled on a bleed, this can cause the caliper pistons to advance further, resulting in less clearance between the pads and rotor, and potential rubbing.

You can identify the issue by trying to push the pistons back into the bores of the caliper with a dedicated piston press or a plastic tyre lever. If the fluid has been overfilled, you will struggle to fully push the pistons back into the bores of the caliper.

To avoid this issue, use the correct caliper spacers when bleeding your brakes.

Shimano and SRAM include caliper spacers with their bleed kits, whereas Campagnolo sells an ‘Oil Level Tool’ that you fit in place of the pads.

9. Poor facing of frame

In order to perform optimally and avoid creating any noise, a brake caliper needs to be centered in its mounts. If the mounts aren’t properly prepared in the factory, you’ll never be able to align the caliper correctly.

You may also struggle to centre a caliper in its mounts if there’s excess paint around the mounting points from when the frame was sprayed. If you suspect this to be the case, the best solution is to take your frame to a bike shop that has a facing tool, which will allow them to remove the excess material and for your calipers to be centred correctly.

But remember, some noise is inevitable…

Unfortunately, we live far from a perfect world. Even when your brakes are aligned optimally, you can still experience some noise from them if you’ve ridden through water, grit or mud and it finds its way onto the pads.

The tolerances of road bike disc brakes are much tighter than their mountain biking counterparts. There is far less margin for error and sometimes, try as you might, you may still experience some noise.

The post How to silence disc brakes: 9 ways to fix squealing disc brakes appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Cleaning the chain on your bike is a key part of reducing wear, improving performance and showing love to your bike. This is the ultimate guide to cleaning bicycle chains, and likely contains more information than you bargained for.

Your bicycle chain will wear for various reasons, but the key accelerant is grit within that grinds away the metal. While reducing wear through chain cleaning is certainly the factor that will save you money, you should also consider the efficiency that’s lost through all that abrasive friction.

Why should I clean my bicycle chain?

Jason Smith, of independent testing facility Friction Facts, confirms there’s a measurable amount of efficiency lost from a dirty chain.

“The numbers can vary based on the ‘dirtiness’ of the chain, but on average, testing shows a dirty road chain can decrease efficiency by about 3 to 5 watts (at 250-watt rider output) – about 1 to 2 per cent of power loss,” he says.

“For example, say a properly cleaned and lubed chain consumes about 7 watts. The light road grit kicked up from a couple of ‘clean’ road rides can cost an additional 3 watts of frictional losses.”

Smith explains that number increases with the grit: “Riding on several road rides without cleaning or relubing can cost about 5 watts of losses. In extreme cases (MTB or cyclocross for example), we’ve seen a muddy chain add 12 watts of losses over baseline.

“When a chain is not properly cleaned and lubed, friction levels increase at the sliding surfaces of each chain link. At 95rpm with a 53t front ring, 40,280 chain link articulations occur every minute [an articulation is a link bending into or out of a ring, cog, or pulley] as the chain snakes through the drivetrain. Because of the high number of links constantly articulating, it is crucial to make sure the friction is minimised within the links.”

Many riders make the mistake of not degreasing their chains, prior to lubrication. If you lube a dirty chain, it will only continue to attract more contaminants and not be of particular benefit. You also run the risk of having a ‘chain tat’ if your leg comes into contact with a dirty chain on a ride. However, it’s better to lube a grease-covered chain prior to a ride than do nothing at all.

Should I take my chain off my bike to clean it?

Jonny Ashelford / Immediate Media

Everyone has a slightly different view on whether the chain should be on or off the bike for a thorough cleaning.

Removing a chain from the bike and shaking it in a jar of degreaser used to be common practice, but not so much anymore. With chains becoming more precise as further gears are added to modern drivetrains, our techniques for cleaning have had to adapt.

If your chain uses a joining pin to connect, rather than a quick-link, they are typically designed to go on once and then be removed only when worn out.

Calvin Jones of Park Tool expands on this, saying that “if the chain has a ‘connection rivet’, you invite creating a weak link every time you remove and install a new connection rivet. Even a master link is best left alone.

“The better master links… ‘click’ into place, and taking it off and on and off and on removes this feature. Again, you are creating a weak link.”

If your chain uses a reusable quick-link to install, then you’re welcome to remove your chain for cleaning and not worry about creating a potentially weaker link.

For those with (officially) non-reusable links, Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo all recommend using a brand-new quick-link every time a chain is installed.

However, many riders re-use non-reusable quick-links with success, despite brands insisting against it. We have a detailed guide on quick-links that delves further into the topic.

The easiest way to clean a bicycle chain

If you don’t want to go to all the trouble of deep-cleaning your chain, cleaning it on the bike fairly quickly is certainly possible.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to degreasing, cleaning and lubricating your chain on the bike.

1. If your bike is disc-brake equipped, you should think about covering your disc rotor or removing your wheel.  If you’re not going to cover it, make sure you apply degreaser as far away from it as possible – where the chain meets the chainring underneath the driveside chainstay. Alternatively, you can use a chain-cleaning device or remove the wheel and use a chain keeper (more on these shortly).
2. Spray a dedicated chain degreaser on the chain, back-pedalling to coat the entirety of the component. If using a chain-cleaning device, pour degreaser in until it reaches the fill line.
3. Rub the degreaser into the chain with a brush or rag. It’s best to use an old rag or brush specifically for the drivetrain and have a clean rag to use on the rest of the bike, to avoid getting black marks over your sparkling machine.
4. Wait five minutes, or however long the manufacturer recommends, before washing the degreaser off. In that time, you could clean the rest of the bike.
5. Wash off degreaser using water.
6. Wipe the chain with a rag or cloth until it is no longer black. If your chain is particularly dirty, you may need to repeat the degreasing process.
7. Once there is no more black residue coming off the chain, dry it. You can use a dry cloth or rag for this, or if you’re lucky enough to own one, an air compressor. Don’t leave the chain overnight to prevent rust build-up.
8. Lubricate the chain. We’d recommend a drip-on lube rather than a spray-on one. Firstly, this is to avoid getting lubricant on the disc brake rotor or caliper (if applicable) but also, by dripping the lubricant on one drop on each link, it gives you an opportunity to inspect the chain and will help you catch any issues, such as if there is a tight link or mis-pressed rivet.

Chain-cleaning devices and keepers

The majority of bicycle maintenance product brands, including Park Tool and Muc-Off, recommend the use of a chain-cleaning device.

Here, the device includes rotating brushes that work the degreaser through the chain in a controlled manner as it is back-pedalled past. Experience shows they’re all pretty similar in function, and build quality is all that really separates them.

Jones takes it a step further and recommends the use of a ‘dummy hub’ (aka chain keeper) in place of the rear cogs.

This is done specifically to avoid running degreaser through your freehub and rear-hub bearings, and is common practice among WorldTour race mechanics too.

Another benefit is easy access to the derailleur pulley wheels, a notorious spot for gunk to build up. You’ll want to buy the correct chain keeper for your bike’s axle standard.

“After using a chain scrubber, with a degreaser, follow up with a second wash of warm soapy water. Using two different solvents flushes out any grit that is left,” suggests Jones.

Smith agrees with Jones and Sampson that using a chain-cleaning device is the best answer if the chain must stay on. However, he warns of potential problems when doing so: “First, the chain cannot be submersed in cleaning fluid.”

The tension of the chain is another factor to be aware of, continues Smith: “Even though the tension is light [created by the rear derailleur cage spring], the positive tension does not allow the chain to go slack. A slacked chain opens up the sliding surfaces and allows cleaner to flow through the internals more freely than a tensed chain.”

Whether you use a stiff-bristled brush, a chain-cleaning device or the ugly sweater you got for Christmas, it’s best to do it outside. Chain cleaning is a dirty task and doing it over carpet or indoor floors isn’t advised.

Jones also warns against using harmful degreasers, stating that you shouldn’t use diesel, benzene, gasoline or acetone. There are plenty of safer and healthier options that will get your chain suitably clean.

And don’t be tempted to use a power washer as a chain cleaner “unless you are ready to overhaul the bike at the same time,” cautions Jones – because these can strip the grease from your bearings if you point them in the wrong direction.

I can remove my chain – how should I clean it?

David Rome / Immediate Media

If you have a reusable masterlink in your chain and don’t need to touch that chain-breaking tool, you’re in the minority, but this means you can take that chain off and run it through a degreasing bath.

Jason Smith is all for cleaning chains off the bike. “We recommend removing the chain to properly clean it. A quick link such as the Wippermann Connex Link facilitates easy removal. The most effective method of cleaning is by placing the chain in a simple and inexpensive ultrasonic machine.

“The ultrasonic agitation does a great job of removing dirt and grit from the internals of the links. If an ultrasonic cleaner is not available, the chain can be placed in a sealed container with cleaner and shaken vigorously,” Smith suggested.

In our experience, using Simple Green in combination with an ultrasonic cleaner has proven effective at getting the chain clean and, most importantly, getting the stubborn grit out of the rollers. However, doing this on a filthy chain takes a number of five-minute cycles (or longer) before the chain is spotless.

If you don’t have time for this, scrubbing down the chain will get almost the same results as the ultrasonic cleaner and you can have it back on the bike far quicker.

If you want to speed up the process of using the ultrasonic cleaner, scrub the chain with a stiff-bristled brush to bring back the exterior sparkle, then run it through the ultrasonic cleaner. Once done, rinse it with water and then air dry with compressed air. You will then have a truly sparkling fresh chain.

Whatever you do, don’t leave your chain to soak for an extended period of time (days). There are some horror stories out there about degreaser corroding metal and causing surface cracks.

Can a chain be too clean?

Some people believe that cleaning a chain too much removes hard-to-replace factory grease from within the rollers. While it is important to ensure a chain is correctly lubricated, there’s little risk of a chain being too clean.

“We don’t feel a chain can ever be too clean, as long as it’s properly lubed after cleaning,” reports Smith. “In fact, when Friction Facts was in the business of treating chains [the UltraFast Optimization process acquired by CeramicSpeed] we stripped the chain completely using heavy solvents. The goal was to achieve a bare metal surface, prior to the lubrication treatment.”

We asked Jones the same question, for which his reply was simply: “No, but at some point, you are cleaning just for the fun of it.”

Once the chain is clean, Smith warns not to wait too long after cleaning before applying lube: “This minimises oxidation of a dry chain.”

So what about the lube itself? Are factory-applied ones superior?

“We’ve debunked the claim that aftermarket lubes can’t get as deep into the chain as factory-applied lubes,” says Smith. “Based on the friction decay seen during testing, it takes one minute or less for a drip lube to fully penetrate the internals of a rotating chain.”

Smith says he’s done many tests on chains with factory lubes and aftermarket ones: “Some factory lubes are faster than other factory lubes, and we’ve even seen a 5-watt swing between the fastest and slowest aftermarket lubes. However, in no case have we ever seen a factory lube outperform the fastest aftermarket lubes.”

Alright, so it’s clean. Now what?

“Part of the total cleaning process is re-lubing. Choosing a high-efficiency chain lube is the easiest and least expensive way to decrease friction in a drivetrain,” says Smith.

According to Smith’s testing, there’s up to a 5-watt difference between the top-performing and lowest-performing drip lubes. “Some of the top-performing drip lubes we’ve tested are Squirt Lube, Lilly Lube, Rock-N-Roll Extreme and Morgan Blue Rolls Pro.

“Paraffin wax blends (such as Molten Speed Wax) are generally faster than drip lubes, but the application is more complex. As an option, a few companies are now providing paraffin wax optimised chains, ready to go,” he says.

For more on how to lube your chain, check out our in-depth guide to the best chain lube.

Some products claim to be an all-in-one cleaner and lube, but we’ve found these to be too thin for proper lubrication over longer rides. However, the practice is the same with any lube – wipe off the excess.

Smith agrees with such practice, stating that it’s better to lube over a dirty chain than not lube at all.

“At a minimum, a rider should re-lube the chain prior to every ride, even if they are re-lubing over a dirty chain. For efficiency, it’s better to re-lube over a dirty chain than do nothing at all,” suggests Smith.

If you follow up this advice with running the chain through a clean rag, you’ll likely stay on top of many dirty chain woes.

Prevention is perhaps the best thing in order to be lazy. Jones suggests: “First, use less oil as you lubricate. Don’t soak a chain in lube. Use a drip lube and put a drop along each joint, each link across the roller. Hosing your chain with spray certainly gets lube there as well, but it also gets it all over side plates, making the chain a dirt collector.

“It takes more time to lube each and every rivet but it also lets you inspect each one, and that will help you catch that ‘weak link’ of a burred, bowed or bent side plate, a mis-pressed rivet and a tight link,” Jones adds.

The laziest way to clean a filthy chain is just to replace it. Here, Jones offers the simple advice to measure for chain wear before each cleaning – there’s no point wasting time on a worn chain.

Once a chain is showing signs of wear, we pull the old cassette and cranks off the bike and give them a proper cleaning in a parts washer. Doing this provides a nice welcome for a fresh chain.

Should I wax my chain?

Immersion chain waxing is another option for the most fastidious of riders. It involves fully submerging a chain in a pot of melted wax. A waxed chain does a great job of resisting wear-increasing contaminants and it also results in one of the most efficient solutions. However, there’s a fair amount of work involved in immersion waxing a chain.

Senior technical writer Simon von Bromley has curated a full step-by-step guide for the process.

The post Everything you ever wanted to know about cleaning your bike chain appeared first on Ebikes Online.

The best medicine is often preventive and the best way to avoid mechanicals on the trail is to safety check your bike before you hit the singletrack.

The best tool kits for bikes will help maintain your bike and the best bike repair stands hold it off the ground to make tinkering easier.

What’s more, a clean bike is less likely to break down. You can keep yours gleaming using the best bike cleaning products.

But despite our best efforts, stuff happens. When it does, if you know what to pack for long mountain bike rides you should be prepared to rise to the occasion and save your ride.

Tools and technique won’t fix everything, which is why a fully charged mobile phone is paramount on any ride. You can call for a lift in the event of an irreparable mechanical and use the best cycling apps to pinpoint your location.

But for more common mechanical mishaps you or your riding buddies are likely to encounter, here are practical solutions to get you up and rolling.

Trailside repairs you should learn

1. Pump properly

Picture this: you flatted and have just installed a new inner tube. You’re pumping like mad with your hand pump so you can get riding again only to shear off the valve stem.

No patch will fix that. So you’d better have a second tube or it could be a long walk home.

There is a right and a wrong way to use a hand pump. The wrong way is to rest the wheel against your thigh and pump like crazy. While effective, this puts undue stress on the valve stem, increasing the likelihood of damage.

Hand pumps with extendable hoses are another great way to avoid stressing the valve stem. Josh Patterson / Immediate Media

Try resting the wheel against the ground and propping up the pump with a log or rock, so the head of the pump is in line with the valve.

Not only does this lessen the stress on the valve stem, it also gives you a firm surface to push against when inflating your tyre.

Even better, use a hand pump with an extendable hose to lessen stress on the valve stem.

2. Give sidewall tears the boot

A spare note can work as a patch, as do used bar wrappers. Immediate Media

Tubeless sealant does a good job of stopping small punctures from ruining your ride, but cuts larger than a quarter of an inch often require the use of a tube and a tyre boot.

If you simply install a tube without bothering to cover a torn sidewall, you may notice the tube starting to bulge through the tear, soon to be followed by a loud “bang!” and then a long hike out of the woods…

Keep your used energy gel and bar wrappers close at hand, not just to avoid littering the trail, but also because they come in handy in situations such as this.A wrapper makes a great tyre boot in a pinch and there are other ways to fix an inner tube without patches.

For a more permanent fix, consider using a tyre boot such as those from Park Tool.

3. Carry the right repair kit

A well-equipped multi-tool is worth the weight. Alex Evans / Our Media

Top of our repair kit essentials is a multi-tool.

There are countless multi-tools on the market. The best bike multi-tools have built-in chain tools, so consider investing in one to remove the need to carry a separate chain tool with you.

A broken chain can be one of the most jarring mid-ride breakdowns. It happens under power, usually while you’re really cranking up hill (or shifting when you shouldn’t be).

While it’s not nearly as common as getting a flat, it does happen and you should always be prepared to fix it with the proper tools.

Be sure to pack a master-link as well.

Bring these with you at the bare minimum. Our Media

We’d advise carrying a rudimentary repair kit with the following items:

Rubber gloves; zipties; duct tape, wrapped around tyre levers; spare master-link; master-link pliers; multi-tool with chain breaker; tyre plugs with installation fork.

4. Fix a cleat with your bike’s ‘back-up bolts’

A rotor bolt can step in for a cleat bolt. Our Media

Picture this: you just finished a gruelling hike-a-bike section, you have clipless pedals and go to clip in, but something feels sloppy.

Then you realise you’re missing a cleat bolt. Fear not, your bike has ‘backup bolts’ you can use in just such a situation.

In a pinch, a rotor bolt will work as a cleat bolt. Is running five rotor bolts safe? It’s safe enough to get you home.

It might not be the ideal, but World Cup weight weenies have been making do with less than a full complement of rotor bolts for years.

Even downhillers including Steve Peat have been known to use just three rotor bolts. You are not Steve Peat and we’re not endorsing this solution for weight savings, but it will get you home while allowing you to use both pedals.

To mitigate risk, take a rotor bolt from the rear wheel, and practise clipping in and out a few times before you start riding again to ensure there are no interference issues between the new bolt and the pedal.

5. Saddle rail fix

Cable ties have multiple uses and are easy to carry. Our Media

Saddle rails snap surprisingly frequently.

If this happens to you, you may be able to use zip ties to hold the hull of the saddle in a workable position until the end of the ride.

Where they need placing will depend on the design of the seat, but this works in most situations.

6. Snapped spoke spin

Secure a broken spoke to stop it getting in the way. Our Media

We’ve got tips for replacing a snapped spoke when you’re back home, but here’s how to get back if one breaks on a ride.

Wind the spoke around a neighbouring spoke to prevent it flopping around and potentially damaging the frame.

If the break is near the hub, it could pierce your rim tape.

You could also use duct tape to secure the loose spoke.

7. Singlespeed conversion

A rear-derailleur failure doesn’t have to end your ride. Andy Lloyd / Immediate Media

If you damage your derailleur hanger, hopefully you’ve packed a spare.

But if you happen to ruin your derailleur hanger and rear derailleur, then this last-resort repair will enable you to pedal home.

This repair is easier – and more reliable – if you ride a hardtail. It can be done with a full-suspension bike too, but it requires extra steps to work reliably.

We’ve got a more detailed guide on how to perform a singlespeed conversion, but for now here are the essential steps.

Remove what remains of the rear derailleur by unbolting it from the hanger. Take the rear-derailleur cable and loop it around the seatstay so that it won’t get tangled in the drivetrain.

Open the quick-link or remove a pin with your chain tool (using the quick-link is generally preferable, but you’re going to be shortening the chain anyway).

Place the chain in a gear you can pedal easily. Our Media

Attempt to find a workable gear combination with the straightest chainline possible. Use the middle chainring on a triple crankset, the small ring on a double, and, well, the only chainring on a 1x drivetrain.

Find a gear combination that will work without too much slack in the chain and splice the chain back together.

If you have a full-suspension mountain bike, be aware that most suspension designs have some degree of fore/aft axle movement as the wheel moves through its travel.

This means that while your chain might appear reasonably tensioned when you’re hacking things together, the chain will become too loose or too tight as the rear suspension compresses. To counter this, lock out the rear suspension.

It’s advisable to carry a shock pump if you have a full-suspension mountain bike. Alex Evans

If you have a shock pump handy, inflate the rear suspension to the point that the suspension won’t compress in the open position (but be sure to stay below the shock’s maximum air pressure, which is usually printed on the shock body).

High air pressure plus the lockout will minimize any rear-suspension movement that could compromise chain tension.

Have a trailside repair tip you’d like to share? Sound off in our comments section below.

The post Seven trailside repairs you need to know appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Getting fitter and more aero, or splashing out on the latest superbike, are ways to go faster (or lighten your wallet), but few of us have the time or money.

Thankfully, some of the best bike upgrades present simple and often affordable ways to ride faster, further and in greater comfort.

In fact, some of the smartest upgrades will even save you money in the long run by preserving expensive parts.

Others, meanwhile, will see you spend less time fixing punctures on the side of the road, trail or track.

What’s more, unless your bike already has an impeccable spec, well-chosen upgrades can transform your ride, without breaking the bank.

Here are eight of the best upgrades you can make to your bike.

You can also check out our guide to the best road bike upgrades, with more tips for dedicated roadies, or head to our piece on the best MTB upgrades for specific mountain bike recommendations.

Eight of the best bike upgrades in 2022

1. Tyres

Quality tyres grip well and puncture infrequently, while upping your average speed. Simon von Bromley / Immediate Media

Whether you’re riding a road bike, mountain bike, gravel bike or hybrid, the most effective, affordable upgrade you can often make will be to change its tyres.

While there are exceptions, the tyres specced on off-the-shelf bikes can be underwhelming. It’s an easy area for bike brands to cut costs.

Cheaper tyres will usually deploy cost-saving measures such as using harder, less grippy rubber or a more basic construction with inferior puncture resistance.

Switching to a set of the best road bike tyres can make big improvements to the speed, comfort and handling of your bike.

This might also be an opportunity to convert to tubeless tyres. By ditching inner tubes, tubeless tyres can help stave off punctures and boost comfort by allowing you to running lower tyre pressures. We’ve got a guide to the best tubeless tyres for road bikes.

Upgrading your tyres can unlock new levels of riding. Rondo

Things get a little more complicated with mountain bike tyres, where there are countless options for different styles and conditions, but choosing a set of tyres that match your intentions on the bike can transform the ride.

The best gravel bike tyres sit somewhere between the two. If you’re riding a gravel bike, upgrading your tyres to something wider or grippier can help unlock more confidence on rough terrain, while a fast-rolling gravel tyre will boost your speed if the going’s less tough.

2. Handlebar tape

Wave goodbye to bad vibrations by upgrading your bar tape. David Caudery/Immediate Media

As the contact point between your hands and bars, handlebar tape is designed to provide shock absorption and grip.

The best handlebar tape is a cost-effective way to make your bike more comfortable – and breathe new life into a machine that’s feeling a bit tired.

Plusher tape will ensure fewer vibrations pass through the handlebars, so riding over broken surfaces and long days out are more forgiving on your hands, wrists and arms.

Plus, handlebar tape offers the opportunity to personalise your bars with cork or leather for a traditional look, or lively-coloured modern synthetics.

However, there’s a knack to fitting the stuff. Read our guide on how to wrap handlebar tape if you’re unsure.

3. Seatpost

Some seatposts, such as the Ergon CF Allroad Pro Carbon, are designed specifically to improve comfort. Ergon

The seatpost extends vertically from a bike’s seat tube and holds the saddle in place. By moving up or down, they also permit saddle height adjustment.

But, while the seatpost has a simple job on the face of it, don’t forget this humble component when it comes to upgrades.

Seatposts flex to varying degrees in order to protect your backside from jolts and vibrations.

Cheaper bikes tend to have alloy posts, which often provide a harsher ride than carbon equivalents.

Some seatposts, such as the Ergon CF Allroad Pro Carbon with its leaf-spring design, are also designed specifically to offer more flex than a typical post.

A lighter and more comfortable carbon seatpost is a smart upgrade at reasonable cost.

4. Saddle

A saddle with carbon rails is a worthwhile upgrade. David Caudery / Immediate Media

Saddles are another component that can be underwhelming on otherwise impressive bikes.

Saddle choice is highly personal, too, so replacing your existing seat with something more comfortable for your rear-end will make a big difference to your enjoyment on the bike.

Saddle design varies significantly from one model to the next, with varying levels of padding or features such as pressure-relieving cut-outs, while many saddles also come in a choice of widths.

Some saddles, meanwhile, are designed for a racier position on the bike, often with a shorter nose to allow you to get into a more aggressive, aerodynamic riding position.

As saddles are a highly personal choice, we recommend trying before buying, but our guide on how to choose a bike saddle will get you started.

5. Cleaning kit

Washing a bike is much easier when everything’s to hand. Tom Marvin / Our Media

Bike cleaning kits contain everything you need to keep your bike looking smart and running smoothly.

These typically include a bike cleaner, degreaser and chain lube. Brushes and sponges are also normally included for applying and removing the products.

Such kits are often worth more than the sum of their parts. They’re easy to keep tidy and organised for when you need to clean your bike after a ride.

Everyone wants a clean bike but, more importantly, keeping your bike clean will improve the efficiency of your drivetrain and preserve your components in the long run.

6. Service

A good service will have your bike running as new again. Allan McKenzie / SWPix.com

Regular servicing can iron out more minor niggles, such as squeaking brakes and mysterious creaks.

A good mechanic will spot signs of drivetrain wear that, if acted on, can save a lot of dosh down the line.

An ageing chain, for example, will chew through your chainrings and cassette.

Replacing the chain as it approaches its end is far cheaper than leaving it too late and having to buy expensive drivetrain parts.

A full service at your local bike shop should also look at often-neglected parts of the bike. Bearings in the rear hub and bottom bracket benefit from an occasional clean and grease.

While a service isn’t as fancy as a shiny new part, your bike will run like a dream after spending some time with a good mechanic, and it could save you money in the long run.

7. Bike fit

A professional fit can help you sit more comfortably on the bike. Immediate Media

If your bike isn’t the correct size – or it’s the right size but doesn’t offer a good fit – that’s an issue.

A correctly fitting bike is more comfortable and efficient, and therefore, more enjoyable to ride.

While most bikes offer a degree of adjustability, there are limits – and if yours is significantly too large or too small you may want to consider trading it in.

For less experienced riders, it’s a good idea to visit your local bike shop to ask for advice on how to perfect your position on the bike. If you’re looking to buy a new bike, a good shop will also be able to help you choose the right size and cover basic setup.

More advanced riders, or riders with specific niggles and fit requirements, may want to seek the advice of a professional bike fitter. These aren’t cheap, but some cyclists, whether racers or injury-prone recreational riders, swear by them.

8. Wheels

Wheels are often ripe for an upgrade. Simon von Bromley / Our Media

Okay, we’re getting into more expensive upgrades here, but wheels are another component ripe for switching, if your budget allows.

Some brands are prone to scrimping on wheels to lower the cost of complete bike builds. Many mid-range bikes roll out of the factory on wheels that don’t do the frame or rest of the build justice.

As a result, one way to improve the ride of your bike is to upgrade from its stock wheels, whether that’s to lower weight or improve aerodynamics.

Switching from alloy to carbon wheels, for example, is one of the pricier bike upgrades, but still much cheaper than a new bike.

The best road bike wheels are lighter, faster and increasingly compatible with wider tyres, adding additional comfort into the mix, too.

In addition, spare wheelsets may enable you to use the same bike, particularly a gravel bike, on a variety of terrain.

The post Eight of the best upgrades you can make to your bike – without breaking the bank appeared first on Ebikes Online.