The drivetrain on a bike enables you to pedal forward and typically change between gears, making it easier or harder for you to ride on a given gradient.

Here, we describe the different bike components that make up a drivetrain and explain their functions.

What is a drivetrain?

A drivetrain consists of the parts that help you to move the bike.

In a wider context, the drivetrain is part of the groupset, which also includes the shifters and brakes. The easiest way to understand the function of a groupset is that it contains the parts that enable you to move and stop.

Although the drivetrain doesn’t include the shifters, the shifters are the component that controls the drivetrain when you change gears.

What parts are in a bike’s drivetrain?

The drivetrain almost always consists of a series of bike components that work together to enable you to change into different gears.

It typically includes one or two derailleurs, mechanisms that change gear when actuated at the shifter.

The chain is an integral part of many drivetrains. It passes through the relevant derailleurs and over the cassette and crankset, which contain your gear ratios and act as a point for you to drive force through the system when you pedal.

Not all bikes feature gears, such as singlespeed bikes, and some bikes use alternative systems, such as belt drives.

1x vs 2x

There is an increasing trend for the best gravel bikes and best mountain bikes to feature 1x drivetrains rather than 2x drivetrains, which are typically found on road bikes.

A 2x drivetrain has two chainrings and a front derailleur, whereas a 1x drivetrain forgoes a front derailleur and uses a single chainring.

1x drivetrains save some weight because they have fewer components, and there is also no need for a gear cable or electrical wire to route from the shifter.

1x chainrings often feature a ‘narrow-wide’ profile where the teeth alternate between narrow and wide, to better hold the chain.

The rear derailleur on 1x drivetrains will often feature a clutch mechanism, which increases the weight of the component, to help retain the chain and stop it slapping on the driveside chainstay.

Crankset

The crankset (often referred to as the ‘chainset’ and sometimes ‘cranks’) is the centrepiece of the drivetrain.

The crankset helps you move the chain as you pedal, transferring force from your legs to the rest of the drivetrain and ultimately to your bike’s rear wheel, helping you move forward.

Cranksets comprise of two crank arms with chainrings that the chain runs over.

The bottom bracket bearings allow the crankset to rotate smoothly and freely.

The crankset typically includes an axle or spindle that holds the entirety of the crankset together. However, some crankset designs, particularly older ones, do not include an axle or spindle, and this is part of the bottom bracket, instead.

Chainrings

The chainrings are effectively your front gears and consist of teeth that hold the chain in place.

Bikes will typically feature between one and three chainrings.

It is worth considering the range of gears you would like to use in combination with your cassette.

Chainrings come in a range of sizes to suit all riding disciplines. The size of a chainring is determined by the number of teeth it has. For example, a 50-34 means the outer chainring consists of 50 teeth and the inner 34 teeth.

If you are running a 1x chainring, this will simply be listed as one number, such as 40t, denoting there are 40 teeth.

Cranks

The crankset comprises two crank arms, which the pedals are attached to via a threaded section.

Cranks can be of different lengths, typically from 165mm to 175mm, with longer lengths giving you more leverage.

Crank length is typically specced according to the size of bike, and corresponding height. However, leg lengths can vary across different heights, so this could be an area to explore for optimal performance.

Front derailleur

The front derailleur is the mechanism that moves the chain between the chainrings on the crankset. As its name suggests, it derails the chain from one chainring and pushes it onto another.

The front derailleur is actuated by the left-hand shifter on most shifting systems. There are some exceptions with electronic groupsets, where you can often customise which buttons shift what derailleur via their respective apps.

Bikes that feature a single chainring don’t have a front derailleur. This is quite common on mountain bikes and gravel bikes.

There are two different ways front derailleurs are mounted to the bike frame: band-on and braze-on.

Band-on derailleurs have a hinged metal part that fits around the seat tube of the frame.

Braze-on front derailleurs fix to a mounting plate that’s typically riveted onto the driveside face of the seat tube.

In terms of front-derailleur compatibility, you should stick with the manufacturer and series of the rest of your groupset.

Rear derailleur

The rear derailleur is the mechanism that shifts the chain at the cassette.

There are different types and designs of rear derailleur, but they all serve the same function and work in a similar way.

The component is actuated by the right-hand shifter on most groupset systems.

Rear derailleurs include a derailleur cage that houses pulley wheels (referred to in the UK as jockey wheels) that the chain wraps around.

Rear derailleurs will have a certain number of ‘speeds’ – generally from 7 up to 13.

Some rear derailleurs feature chain retention measures such as a clutch mechanism to prevent the chain from slapping on the driveside chainstay. This can be very useful when riding off-road and makes for a quieter ride.

Rear derailleurs typically attach to a bike’s frame via a derailleur hanger using a single bolt.

As with the front derailleur, you should stick with the manufacturer and groupset series your bike has because the cable pull (the amount a derailleur moves for every millimetre of cable pulled through by the shifter) of the shifter is specific to the rear derailleur.

Cassette

The cassette is a replaceable cluster of sprockets installed on the rear wheel. The rear derailleur moves the chain up or down the cogs.

Cassettes come in a wide range of sizes to suit all riding disciplines. The size of a cassette is usually expressed by quoting its smallest and largest cogs. For example, an 11-32 cassette means the smallest cog consists of 11 teeth and the largest 32.

Gravel and mountain bikes tend to have wider-ranging cassettes than road bikes. This is because gravel and mountain bikes tend to have 1x drivetrains and consequently the cassette has to provide easy gearing to winch yourself up steep climbs and gears that are big enough for fast riding on the flat and downhill.

Cassettes might have anything from 7 to 13 sprockets, depending on their intended use and manufacturer. The latest flagship road bike groupsets  and mountain bike groupsets from Shimano and SRAM feature 12-speed cassettes. Campagnolo also sticks to 12-speed cassettes on the road but its Ekar gravel groupset is 13-speed.

The cassette fits onto the freehub of the wheel. The inside of a cassette has notches that align with splines on the freehub.

Manufacturers and brands have different spline and cassette designs. It’s always worth checking you are buying the correct cassette for your freehub, or the right freehub for your cassette, when buying a new wheel. A full explainer on freehubs, how they work and their compatibility can be found in our guide to freehubs.

Chain

The chain is the component in your drivetrain that is subject to the most abuse, as it passes through all of the aforementioned components.

The chain is made up of a series of links, with most chains having alternating wide and narrow links in a pattern that repeats for the length of the chain.

Chains also have ‘speeds’ and you should use the correct chain for the number of speeds your groupset has. It’s also worth checking if a new chain is compatible with your specific groupset.

Chains wear through use. They stretch in length and side-to-side movement between links increases. They will often be the first part of the drivetrain that you need to replace.

If they are not replaced in time, chains can wear out the cassette and chainrings. These components are more expensive to replace than chains, so it’s worth keeping an eye on how worn your chain is and replacing it if need be.

We’ve got a detailed explainer on how to replace your chain.

Electric bike drivetrains

Electric bike drivetrains can sometimes differ from conventional, geared drivetrains on non-assisted bikes depending on the type of electric motor they use.

If a hub-based motor is used, electric bikes will almost always have a conventional, geared drivetrain.

If a bottom-bracket based motor is utilised, often found on the best electric bikes, then front derailleurs are often not compatible. The system will, therefore, use a 1x drivetrain. There are some exceptions, though.

Singlespeed and fixed-gear drivetrains

Singlespeed and fixie bikes have simpler drivetrains than other bikes without derailleurs, a cassette and shifters.

They typically consist of a wider chain, chainring and sprocket. They are more efficient because the chain doesn’t have to go through any derailleurs, which puts it at an angle and accelerates wear.

You’ll need to pick your preferred chainring and sprocket size wisely, based on the terrain you are riding.

Some singlespeed bikes feature freehubs, which allow you to coast, whereas others do not and you’ll have to keep pedalling no matter the gradient.

Belt-drive systems

Some bikes use a belt drive instead of a chain. These are particularly popular with commuters because they tend to be cleaner than chains and consequently diminish the risk of getting clothes dirty. They are also increasingly found on electric bikes.

Belt-drive systems forgo a cassette and chainrings. They require less maintenance because they’re not made of metal and thus do not need degreasing or lubrication.

Typically, these systems are quieter-running and more durable than other drivetrains, but they are less efficient, usually more expensive and spares can be difficult to find.

Hub gears

Hub gears are another popular drivetrain option and are often found on commuter bikes.

Rather than having derailleurs, the gears are incorporated into the hub of the rear wheel, resulting in less maintenance. However, they are heavier and maintenance is more difficult than derailleur gears.

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Disc brakes offer confidence-inspiring and consistent braking, even in wet weather.

They’re generally very reliable and durable components, but disc brakes can make a lot of noise if they’re not set up correctly or contaminated. That noise can sound like a ‘ting-ting-ting’ as you ride, or a squeal/squeak as you stop.

Want quiet disc brakes? In this guide, we’ll take you through the different reasons why your disc brakes may be noisy and how to silence them.

Why are my disc brakes noisy?

Disc brake noise can occur for a number of reasons. We’ll explain some of the common causes of squeaky disc brakes and provide some suggestions on how to resolve the problem.

When working with disc brakes, it’s always worth wearing a fresh pair of mechanic’s gloves or using a lint-free rag because the oils in your skin can contaminate the pads and rotor.

If you have any doubts as to your mechanical ability, take your bike to a reputable mechanic.

9 ways to stop disc brake noise

1. Poor alignment of the brake caliper

One of the most common reasons a disc brake is rubbing is the brake caliper is misaligned with the disc rotor.

It is imperative the caliper is centered properly. If it isn’t, the disc will scrape against either the brake pad or on the inside of the caliper body.

Admittedly, the tolerances on many disc brake systems have grown very fine and it can sometimes be a tricky task.

If your frame uses quick-release dropouts, make sure the wheel is installed correctly before making any adjustments to the brake. It is best to install the wheel on the floor rather than on a stand to allow gravity to centre it in place. If your bike uses thru-axles, you don’t need to worry about this step.

The easiest way to resolve the issue is to slightly loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper to the frame. There’s no need to undo them fully, just enough so the caliper is free to move. These are often 4 or 5mm hex bolts, or sometimes a T25 torx bolt.

Once you have loosened the bolts, spin the wheel and pull on the respective brake lever. Then, without releasing the brake lever, equally tighten the two bolts back up to the relevant torque spec and, fingers crossed, the problem will be solved.

This process repositions the caliper over the rotor and by holding the brake on, should cause the caliper to self-align.

It’s important you tighten the caliper to its full torque spec before releasing the lever. If you torque the bolt after releasing the lever, the effect of any final tightening can minutely move the caliper and then you’re back to square one.

If this technique hasn’t solved the issue, you can try to align the caliper by eye. If you’re working somewhere with little light, try putting a piece of white paper on the floor behind the caliper. The white paper will make it easier to align the caliper because it will make the space between the pads and rotor more visible.

If your disc brake still isn’t aligned after trying these steps, some manufacturers such as Birzman or Hayes have caliper-alignment tools in their range. These are essentially feeler gauges with metal either side of the same width, to create an equal space between the disc brake pads.

You fit caliper-alignment tools over the disc rotor in the loosened caliper. Once installed, pull on the brake lever and tighten the two bolts to the relevant torque spec. As long as the disc rotor isn’t bent, this often solves the problem.

If you own mechanical disc brakes, the setup procedure can be a little different. Most systems comprise of one moving disc brake pad and one static pad. You want to set the static pad as close to the disc rotor as possible and then fine tune the cable tension to ensure an optimal lever feel.

If the mechanical disc brakes are of a dual-piston design, such as the Tektro Spyre, then setup is largely the same as with hydraulic systems, in conjunction with setting the correct cable tension.

2. Pads contaminated

Your disc brakes will certainly be noisy if your brake pads are contaminated. Brake pads can be contaminated if you ride through oil on the roads, or if you accidentally get any degreaser or lubricant on them.

When you’re cleaning your bike, make sure you either cover your disc rotor and caliper or spray degreaser on the chain in a way that means it won’t get onto the rotor.

Providing the wind isn’t blowing in the rotor’s direction, you can spray degreaser on the chain just as it meets the crankset underneath the driveside chainstay, because this is the furthest point away from the disc brake system. In terms of cleaning disc brakes, it’s always best to use specific disc brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol.

You can alternatively use a chain-cleaning device to virtually eliminate the risk of pad contamination.

You’ll know if your pads are contaminated because when you come to a stop you’ll hear a squealing noise and the braking power will be reduced considerably.

The easiest way to resolve the problem is to scrupulously clean the disc rotor and brake caliper, and replace the pads.

If there is a lot of pad material left, you can burn off the contaminants using a blow torch or sand some material away. However, this doesn’t always work and is almost always more trouble than it’s worth.

3. Pad material

Disc brake pad material can have an effect on noise. Organic pads tend to run quieter than metallic pads.

If you decide to change your disc brakes pads from one material to another, make sure you use a new disc rotor that’s compatible with the pad material to ensure optimum performance.

It’s important to add that you should use the correct disc brake pad for the overall braking system.

4. Disc brakes aren’t bedded in

If disc brakes aren’t bedded in correctly, they can vibrate and cause noise.

Bedding in disc brakes is essential whenever you have bought a new bike or fitted new pads. The process transfers some of the pads’ material to the rotor, which allows the pad and rotor to ‘mate’ better and avoid any noise-inducing vibrations.

To bed your disc brake pads in, find a quiet area and ride at a walking pace and then apply both brakes evenly until you almost come to a stop. Then, release the brakes and repeat the process 10 to 15 times. You’ll feel braking power increase as you go through the cycle.

When you’re bedding in disc brakes, make sure you don’t pull on the brake levers too forcefully. This will lead to the brake stopping the wheel from turning and material won’t be transferred from the pad to the rotor evenly.

5. Pads are worn

Noise can be generated if your pads are worn.

If the pads are worn down to the bare metal, you’ll hear the sound of metal rubbing on the disc rotor.

You can generally check the condition of your pads by looking at the back of the brake caliper or by removing the wheel and checking how much pad material is left.

Campagnolo disc brake pads feature a visible wear indicator. These give an audible warning when reached, too.

When fitting new disc brake pads, make sure you scrupulously clean the disc rotor and caliper to stop any old contaminants making their way onto the new pads and to allow for the best bed-in procedure.

6. Disc rotor or brake caliper not torqued correctly

If your disc rotor or brake caliper aren’t correctly torqued, you’ll often hear a metallic clanging. You’ll likely find disc brake pad alignment impossible, too, because there will be play at the caliper or rotor from where they haven’t been securely fastened.

Make sure the disc rotor and brake caliper are tightened correctly. There will generally be a torque reading next to the component.

Centrelock rotors are typically torqued to around 40Nm using a cassette lockring tool.

To tighten a six-bolt disc rotor, it’s best to work in a star-shaped pattern. Start by tightening one bolt slightly, then move to the one opposite and tighten evenly. Next, evenly tighten the bolt next to the first bolt you started to tighten and then opposite and so on.

7. Bent disc rotor

A bent disc rotor is a common cause of noisy disc brakes.

To avoid this problem, make sure you don’t lean your bike by its disc rotor. This might sound simple, but it’s easy to accidentally bend disc rotors when you’re loading your bike into the car, for example.

To fix a bent disc rotor, carefully sight where the bend is in the rotor and simply bend it back with an appropriate rotor-bending tool. Avoid applying too much force because it’s easy to bend a rotor too far back the other way. It’s also important to avoid touching the disc rotor with your fingers because the oils on your skin can contaminate the disc rotor.

Some mechanics prefer to bend a rotor back by hand. This is because you are applying less force to the rotor compared to using a dedicated tool. If you decide to do this, hold the disc rotor with a lint-free cloth to avoid contamination.

If your rotor is bent in multiple places, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to make it straight again – or straight enough not to rub on the brake pads in the caliper. If this is the case, it’s best to replace the rotor.

8. Poor or overfilled bleed

If the brake fluid has been overfilled on a bleed, this can cause the caliper pistons to advance further, resulting in less clearance between the pads and rotor, and potential rubbing.

You can identify the issue by trying to push the pistons back into the bores of the caliper with a dedicated piston press or a plastic tyre lever. If the fluid has been overfilled, you will struggle to fully push the pistons back into the bores of the caliper.

To avoid this issue, use the correct caliper spacers when bleeding your brakes.

Shimano and SRAM include caliper spacers with their bleed kits, whereas Campagnolo sells an ‘Oil Level Tool’ that you fit in place of the pads.

9. Poor facing of frame

In order to perform optimally and avoid creating any noise, a brake caliper needs to be centered in its mounts. If the mounts aren’t properly prepared in the factory, you’ll never be able to align the caliper correctly.

You may also struggle to centre a caliper in its mounts if there’s excess paint around the mounting points from when the frame was sprayed. If you suspect this to be the case, the best solution is to take your frame to a bike shop that has a facing tool, which will allow them to remove the excess material and for your calipers to be centred correctly.

But remember, some noise is inevitable…

Unfortunately, we live far from a perfect world. Even when your brakes are aligned optimally, you can still experience some noise from them if you’ve ridden through water, grit or mud and it finds its way onto the pads.

The tolerances of road bike disc brakes are much tighter than their mountain biking counterparts. There is far less margin for error and sometimes, try as you might, you may still experience some noise.

The post How to silence disc brakes: 9 ways to fix squealing disc brakes appeared first on Ebikes Online.

It’s a good idea to carry out a basic safety check on a bicycle before any long ride, or at least once a week. This guide helps you pick out potential problems in a methodical and easy-to-remember way and applies equally to a road bike, hybrid bike or mountain bike – and both a new bike or one that may not have been ridden for some time.

If you’ve bought a bike online and need to build it at home, check out our guide on how to assemble a bike.

What is the M check?

The M check is a basic safety check of all the main working parts of a bike, moving from the front hub back.

The check is named after the way you follow the shape of the letter M when checking the bike (clever, eh?).

It’s a useful pattern to follow and helps you quickly identify any problems with the bike. With practice, it should take only a couple of minutes to thoroughly check over any bike.

We’ve outlined each step of the M check below.

How to safety check an adult’s bike

How to safety check wheels, brakes and hubs on a bike

Check that the wheels are attached securely to the bike.

These days, wheels are most likely to be secured with a quick-release skewer or some form of bolt-thru axle.

If your bike uses quick-release levers, secure them by clamping the lever down and turning the nut on the other side until it’s tight against the fork (or frame).

Then, open the lever and give the nut another full turn or so. You should now be able to tighten the quick-release firmly without forcing it, ensuring that the wheel is firmly and squarely seated in the dropouts.

Doing this while the bike is sat on the ground can help ensure the wheel is seated squarely within the dropouts.

Bolt-thru axles will usually be threaded through the hub and screwed into the opposing fork leg or chainstay. Before riding, you need to make sure the closure system is secured as per manufacturer instructions.

Next, ensure the hub is in good condition by rocking the wheel side to side to check for play or sideways movement.

Give the wheel a spin. If you hear grinding, or if it sounds rough, it might be time for a bearing replacement or service.

While you’re spinning the wheel, check the disc or wheel rim is running cleanly through the brake caliper. If it’s rubbing, you’ll need to adjust the brakes or caliper.

Finally, give the brake levers a squeeze to check the brakes are working correctly. If you notice a slightly more spongy feeling with hydraulic brakes, they might require bleeding.

If your cable pull brakes don’t feel firm and decisive, you may need to adjust your cable tension or replace your disc brake pads.

How to safety check bike tyres

Tyres need to be seated correctly in the rim. Examine the bead where the tyre contacts the wheel rim. Make sure the bead looks uniform all the way round. If it doesn’t, you may need to reinstall the tyre.

When you’re happy that the tyre is seated, check the sidewalls and tread for excess wear or damage. Worn or torn tyres can be dangerous, so replace them before riding if you are in any doubt.

There are no regulations or markers on bike tyres, so you have to use your own initiative – for road tyres, you’ll start to notice a flat spot, and seeing carcass is a definite sign they need replacing.

Mountain bikes suffer degradation to the knobs and when they’re gone, the tyre is pretty much useless and will need replacing.

If you are running a tubeless tyre setup and haven’t ridden the bike in some time, pop the bead open and check the sealant hasn’t dried out.

Though inner tubes do lose a small amount of air over time, returning to your bike to see a fully flat tyre suggests there could be a puncture. You don’t want to deal with this mid-way through a ride, so take the time to fix a puncture – even a slow one – before you head out .

Pump up your tyres to the correct tyre pressure before riding. Note that optimal tyre pressure differs between road and mountain bikes.

How to safety check your bike’s suspension components

Next, inspect your fork for hairline cracks or any other kind of damage. If you have a suspension fork, check the stanchions for scratches or for excessive suspension fluid near the bolts.

It’s worth noting that a small amount of oil on the stanchions – or a witness mark, as it’s known – is perfectly normal and expected on some forks.

With front and rear air suspension, it’s also worth checking the sag is set correctly about once a month.

How to safety check your bike’s cockpit

Moving up to the headset, rock the fork forwards and back with the front brake applied to see if there is any obvious play. If you notice the bike knocking, try to isolate where it’s coming from by placing your fingers on the joints.

Next, lift the wheel and turn the bar slowly. If you feel any grinding or resistance, it might be a good idea to service your headset or replace it.

Check the stem is secure by holding the front wheel straight with your knees and pushing on the bar. You should be able to apply a reasonable amount of force without the stem turning on the steerer tube.

Stand over the bike and rotate the bar forward and back – if you have drop handlebars, push on those too. There should be no movement of the bars or the grips.

On bikes with flat handlebars, you should also check that the brake levers and shifters are fixed securely.

How to safety check a bike frame

Moving down the frame, check any frame accessories such as a bottle cage are attached properly and not rattling

You’ll also want to visually inspect the entire frame, especially around the welds, if applicable. If you find even a small hairline crack, you should get it checked out by a professional before riding.

If you have a frame with a suspension system, check the shock mounting bolts are holding it firmly in place and that the shock is in good working order, as with the fork.

If you are buying a second-hand carbon frame, check out our comprehensive guide on what to look out for.

How to safety check your cranks and pedals

Give the cranks a spin in the backward direction, so you don’t spin up the rear wheel. As long as the drivetrain is running smoothly, the bottom bracket should also be running smoothly.

Inspect the chainrings for damaged, missing or excessively worn teeth. Worn chainrings will wear to a shark-fin like profile.

Rock the cranks toward the frame to check for any grinding, resistance or play. If you feel any play, it may mean you need to replace the bottom bracket.

Check your pedals by giving them a spin. A well-serviced pedal won’t spin freely because the grease should stop it. Again, check for play by rocking the pedal body. If you find your pedal is not performing correctly, it’ll need to be replaced or serviced. Check your pedals are fitted correctly while you’re at it.

If you have clipless pedals check the metal or plastic cleat on your shoe is not overly worn, is securely bolted and clips in and out with your preferred resistance.

How to safety check your saddle and seatpost

Periodically remove the seatpost from the frame and give it a clean.

If you have aluminium, titanium or steel components, apply some grease before reinstalling. If you have either a carbon frame or seatpost, you’ll need to apply a specific carbon grip paste. This paste is grease-like but contains small particles to increase friction between components.

A stuck seatpost can write off a frame, so be diligent with this step.

When the seatpost is reinstalled at the correct saddle height, check the saddle is securely mounted in the clamp.

How to safety check the rear wheel and drivetrain on a bike

Repeat the procedure performed on the front wheel at the back, checking the hub, tyres and brakes for play, effectiveness, rubbing and wear.

Pedal by hand and check that the chain runs cleanly, with no stiff links. Shift the front and rear derailleurs through their range of gears.

The chain should shift up or down one set of teeth for every click of the relevant shifter. If the chain doesn’t shift in this way, is hesitant, or drops off the teeth, then you may need to adjust the gears on your bike.

Regular pre- and post-ride checks are important, but getting to know your bike can mean you identify problems as soon as, or even before, they arise.

Keep an eye out for irregular mechanical noises, frame creaks or unusual behaviour while riding, and check them out as soon as possible.

How to safety check a children’s bike

Kids’ bikes often come in need of assembly. A safety check before they pedal away is most definitely a good idea.

The above video will show you how to make sure your child’s bike is in good working order.

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Whether you’ve just taken delivery of a brand-new bike or had it for years, this guide should offer some pointers on how to set up your mountain bike.

Technology such as mountain bike suspension forks requires adjustment according to a host of factors. The way the bike rides and feels is also influenced by components, from your mountain bike pedals down to your mountain bike shoes.

What’s more, the best mountain bike tyres won’t fulfil their potential – and could lack traction – unless your bike is suitably configured. Incorrect saddle height and angle can cause even the best mountain bike wheels to feel jittery on descents.

This is the procedure I use to set up test bikes before hitting the trails. It’s not going to get everyone’s bike perfect first time, but it’s a handy checklist that should put most people in a comfortable position without too much fuss.

You can either watch the video below or read the article for more detailed instructions.

How to set up a mountain bike in 7 simple steps

1. Set your saddle height

This may sound obvious, but saddle height is critical to comfort and too often adjusted incorrectly. The wrong saddle height can lead to sore knees or hips and less power to the pedals.

Read our guide on how to get your saddle height right if you’re not sure.

If you already have a bike that you’re sure has the correct saddle height, measure the distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle and transfer this measurement across to the new bike.

To adjust, loosen the saddle clamp, wiggle the seatpost up or down, align the saddle with the top tube and re-tighten the clamp.

Note that it may still pay to fine-tune the height further to compensate for different saddle softness, crank length or shoe and chamois choices.

2. Set the angle and position of the saddle

Most people find the ideal saddle angle is either horizontal or angled slightly nose-down. Although I see it all the time, I haven’t met anyone who has ridden with the nose pointing up and not breathed a sigh of relief once they angle it down a bit.

If your nose is pointed too far down, it can cause you to slide forwards and put more strain on your wrists to brace against the bar.

However, on full-suspension bikes, many riders prefer to point the nose steeply down to compensate for the change in angle as the rear suspension squats into its travel, particularly when climbing.

Learning how to adjust your mountain bike saddle angle allows you to experiment and find what works best for you.

It can also pay to adjust the fore-aft position of the saddle. Sliding it forwards will effectively steepen the seat tube angle, and so help the bike climb more eagerly with less front-wheel lift. On the other hand, slide it too far forward and the cockpit can feel cramped.

To adjust this with a twin-bolt seatpost, loosen the rear bolt (anti-clockwise) to angle the nose down or the front bolt to tilt it up. While the bolts are loose, slide the saddle forwards or backwards, if desired.

Next, tighten up the other bolt (clockwise) until the desired angle is reached, then tighten both bolts alternately until they’re torqued to the manufacturer’s seatpost recommendations – or tight enough to stop the saddle creaking.

3. Adjust the bar height

Handlebar height is a key adjustment that requires experimentation to find the right posture and weight distribution.

Raising it will allow you to get your weight back on steep descents, while enabling you to push the front wheel into holes and downslopes more effectively. Too high, though, and you’ll struggle to get enough weight over the front wheel on flat turns or steep climbs.

As a starting point for trail/enduro riding, try setting the grips so they’re roughly level with (or slightly below) the saddle when it’s at full pedalling height.

To change it, remove the top-cap bolt (anti-clockwise) and loosen the stem-clamp bolts enough to slide the stem off.

Swap spacers to below the stem to increase bar height or vice-versa. Refit the stem, tighten the top cap enough to stop any play, but not so tight as to make the headset stiff or creaky. Align the stem with the front wheel and tighten the stem bolts to the manufacturer’s specs.

4. Set the bar roll

Rolling the bar forwards in the stem, so the bar tips have more upsweep and less backsweep, can bring your elbows out and encourage your weight forwards into a more aggressive position. Rolling it back towards horizontal bar tips can help get your weight back on steep descents.

If you’re unsure, start with the bar tips pointing a few degrees up from horizontal. Loosen the top two stem faceplate bolts just enough to freely rotate the bar. Look at the bar horizontally and adjust until the tips are pointing just up from horizontal, then re-tighten to the stem maker’s specs.

5. Set the position of the brake levers

Loosen the brake lever clamp bolt (anti-clockwise) enough to freely slide the lever body along the bar.

You may also need to loosen any shifters or dropper-post remotes before you can move the brake lever to where it needs to be. Don’t worry about the other controls for now, the brakes are your priority.

With your hand in its natural position on the grip, find the position where your index finger sits comfortably on the outboard edge of the lever blade for maximum leverage.

Now tighten the clamp bolt just enough to hold the levers in place, but leave them loose enough to rotate on the bar.

Set the lever angle. There’s a lot of personal preference when it comes to lever angle, but I’d suggest starting with the lever blade about 30 degrees below horizontal.

When you’ve found a position you’re happy with, re-tighten the clamp bolt to the manufacturer’s specs.

Set the other lever symmetrically. You can measure the distance between the grip and the lever body to set the same horizontal position, and judge the angle by eye so it matches the first lever.

6. Set the position of the other controls

Next, fit the shifter(s) and dropper-post remote around the brakes by loosening the clamp bolts so you can slide the controls horizontally and rotate them on the bar.

With one hand on the grip in the riding position, adjust the shifter or remote with the other hand to find the most ergonomic position.

In the case of SRAM’s MatchMaker shifters, you can swap the T25 securing bolt with the 3mm grub screw to move the shifter inboard or outboard. For some bikes, you may have to swap the position of the shifter and brake lever to get the best position.

7. Set up your suspension

We’ve made a separate video explaining how to set up your mountain bike suspension. It includes dialing in the sag, spring rate and rebound damping.

It also shows you how to test if your bike is balanced and progressive enough. It’s a good starting point that should have your suspension at least in the right ballpark before you hit the trails.

The post How to set up your mountain bike in 7 simple steps appeared first on Ebikes Online.

One of the key things we do to make our test bikes handle better is adjust the handlebar height. Often, the off-the-shelf bar height doesn’t lend itself to optimal handling, nor is it dialled in for fit. With that in mind, here’s our guide on how to adjust handlebar height on your bike.

Riders will often experiment with adjusting saddle height, changing tyre pressure, bar angle and suspension settings, but few are aware of the benefits of adjusting bar height, despite the handlebar playing a crucial role in the way your bike handles.

Bar height is also known as saddle-drop, which is the measurement of how far the top of the saddle sits above (or below) the bars.

Generally speaking, a lower handlebar height reduces your centre of gravity. By placing more weight over the front wheel, you increase traction. Additionally, a lower bar height provides a more centred position between both wheels to improve bike control, especially during climbing. These traits are even more noticeable off-road.

There is a limit; going too low can make the bike difficult to control. A lower handlebar can also negatively affect handling in steep terrain.

On the road, elite riders normally have a significant drop, where their bars sit below the saddle. This is typically done to provide a more aerodynamic position.

Recreational riders are usually best served by a handlebar that is in line with the saddle or above it. This usually gives a very comfortable position and is a good starting point for experimentation.

Luckily, experimenting with bar height is easy and most often free, so you can adjust to your heart’s content until you find the right position for you.

How to adjust the handlebar height on your bike

The guide below applies to modern threadless style stems and headsets. If your stem has bolts pinching it onto the steerer tube, it’s most likely threadless.

We also cover how to adjust the height of a quill-style stem below.

• Time: 15 minutes
• Skill rating: Easy
• Cost: Free

Tools you’ll need

• A multi-tool or a set of Allen keys
• A torque wrench or pre-set Torq key is recommended, especially if working with carbon or lighter parts
• Some stems, such as those from Zipp, Ritchey and Syncros, will use Torx keys rather than Allen bolts and so a T20 or T25 Torx key will be required
• Possibly a hammer for some quill stems

How to add or remove headset spacers

The first and easiest way to adjust handlebar height is by moving headset spacers.

Headset spacers sit on the fork’s steerer tube and help pre-load the headset bearings during adjustment.

Generally, most bikes have 20 to 30mm of headset spacers that can be moved freely above or below the stem. All bolts in the stem are standard-threaded (i.e. ‘lefty-loosey, and righty-tighty’).

Step 1

Start with the bike’s wheels firmly on the ground and then loosen the clamp bolts on the back of the stem.

This is a good time to add a little fresh grease to the top cap bolt, which can easily become seized in place.

Step 2

Remove the top cap that sits on top of the stem.

Step 3

Slide the stem off of the steerer tube.

This is what the top cap and bolt look like when undone. These pieces thread into an item called a star nut.

On a carbon bike, an expanding wedge called a bung is usually used. You do not need to remove either of these.

Step 4

Decide how much you’d like to lower or raise your bar and add or remove the appropriately sized spacer(s).

Step 5

Slide the stem back onto the steerer tube and replace the spacers you just removed into position above the stem.

Ensure there is a 3 to 5mm gap between the steerer tube and the top of your stem/spacer. This will ensure there’s enough space for the headset topcap to clamp down and pre-load the headset bearing.

Step 6

Now replace that top cap and bolt, and tighten until you feel some resistance. This top cap bolt is used to pre-load the headset bearings.

Step 7

Next, align the stem with the front wheel, so the bar is at a right angle with the wheel. This may take some patience – it helps to straddle yourself over the top tube of the bike.

Step 8

Once the wheel and stem are aligned, evenly torque the stem clamp bolts to the manufacturer’s recommended value using a torque wrench. This is often around 5 to 8Nm.

Step 9

Check your headset adjustment.

An easy trick to get this right is to hold the front brake and put one hand on the headset, then rock the bars gently back and forth. Feel for the steerer rocking back and forth inside the head tube of the bike.

If you feel this, loosen the stem clamp bolts and tighten the top cap bolt another quarter-turn, then re-torque the stem clamp bolts.

Repeat until all signs of bearing movement have disappeared and the handlebars still turn smoothly. If you’ve tightened the bolts too much, you’ll feel a tight spot when turning the handlebars.

If your headset feels rough, it may be time to service or replace your headset bearings.

How to flip the stem on my bike

If spacers aren’t enough to achieve the effect you want, you can flip the stem to make a further change to the bar height.

Most mountain bikes will be set up with the stem in a positive position, creating an upward angle, but you can use it the other way round.

This uses all the steps above with the addition of unbolting the handlebar from the front of stem.

Step 1

With the bike’s wheels firmly on the ground, make a mental note of the handlebar angle and the brake lever angle.

Matching up a piece of masking tape on the faceplate and bars will make sure you get the angle spot on when refitting.

Undo the bolts that hold the handlebar to the front of the stem. Remove the stem’s faceplate and store it somewhere safe.

Step 2

Let the handlebar gently droop to the side and now follow the procedure for swapping spacers, outlined in steps 1 to 4 above.

Step 3

While the stem is off the bike, flip it over and then slide it back onto the steerer tube.

Step 5

Reinstall the handlebar, replicating the previous brake lever and handlebar angle.

Tighten the faceplate to the manufacturer’s recommended torque (generally between 4 and 8Nm). Ensure that all bolts are done up evenly, a little at a time, and that there is an even gap top to bottom with the face plate once they’re tight. If the gap isn’t even, the handlebar is being pinched.

While it’s usually the case, not all stems suggest having an even gap at the top of the faceplate. Check your user manual if you are in any doubt.

Proceed with steps 3 to 7 above to pre-load the headset and tighten the stem.

How to adjust the height of a quill stem

Quill stems were the norm before A-head/threadless style stems hit the market. They are still commonly seen on bikes of all styles and disciplines.

Quill stems slide into the steerer tube of the fork and are secured with either an expanding bung or sliding wedge that presses against the inside of the tube.

Adjusting their height is slightly different – but arguably much easier – than a threadless stem.

Step 1

Begin by loosening the bolt on the top of the stem. Most use a hex head bolt, but some will use an external bolt.

Step 2

Once loosened, you may be able to freely move the stem.

If the stem hasn’t been adjusted in some time, you may need to gently tap the bolt with a hammer to free the wedge or bung.

If the bolt is sitting proud of the stem, strike this directly. If it is flush with the top of the stem, you can use your hex key to gently tap the bolt.

Step 3

The stem can now be adjusted to your heart’s content. Be sure to check for any minimum and maximum insertion marks on the stem and adhere to these.

It is good practice to periodically grease the shaft of a quill stem because they frequently seize if left dry.

Step 4

Once you have set the height of your stem and lined it up with your front wheel, you can re-tighten the wedge bolt to spec.

You’re now good to hit the trail and/or road to test out the bike’s new handling characteristics.

It may take some trial and error along with patience to find that perfect height, but once you’ve got it, you’ll be far closer to realising the bike’s true potential.

The post How to adjust the handlebar height on your bike appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Changing your saddle height right is the most important adjustment you can make to the fit of your bike. In this guide, we will explain how to determine your correct saddle height on a bicycle, including how to set the fore/aft position of the saddle, as well as tilt.

While this guide focuses on setting the saddle height for a road bike, it applies equally to mountain bikes, hybrids or any other type of bicycle.

One key note before we begin: there is no such thing as simply setting your bike saddle height’ and being done with it. However, there is such a thing as ‘setting your saddle’.

The difference? Seat height, the saddle’s fore/aft position, and tilt should all be addressed simultaneously to ‘set your bike seat’. Get all three of these things right and you’ll be set to have a comfortable and efficient ride. Get any of the three wrong and it can lead riders off the bike or riding in discomfort.

How to set saddle height on a bike

Let’s begin by determining where your bike seat is now by taking a couple of measurements so you can learn from the changes you make, and what the difference is between a good seat position, a better position and the best position possible.

The three critical measurements to consider are saddle height, fore/aft, and tilt.

There are several ways to measure these, but the methods described below allow anybody with a tape measure and a smartphone to accomplish this task.

It’s good practice to document your starting position before doing anything. It will come in handy in the future, especially if you find any changes you have made aren’t working for you – with your old position noted, you can go back to your starting point quickly.

The foundation for this measurement system is to eliminate saddle-specific features. It doesn’t account for the differences between seats because there is no such measurement, but it does allow you to measure any saddle accurately, and that’s a great starting point.

1. How to measure your bike’s saddle height

Measure the length of your seat from front to back and find a mid-point. Mark this spot on the saddle with a sharpie, small pen, chalk, etc.

Use your tape measure to start at the centre-top of your saddle and measure in a straight line to the centre of your bottom bracket (ignore the seat tube angle – just follow the tape measure).

Some cranks are best measured from the driveside and some better from the non-driveside – either is fine.

Document your measurement to the millimetre (764mm, for example).

2. How to determine the saddle fore/aft position

Place your bike against a wall, either in a stationary trainer or with the wheel in. Either way, make sure the bike is vertically perpendicular to the floor and horizontally perpendicular to the wall.

Measure from the wall to the bottom bracket for measurement #1.

Measure from the wall to the tip of the saddle for measurement #2.

To calculate saddle setback, deduct measurement #1 from measurement #2.

3. How to determine saddle tilt

Because many seats have contours, the best way to get consistent measurements is to measure the overall seat tilt.

Place a piece of board over the seat and use your smartphone or inclinometer to find the overall seat tilt.

Double-check to see if your bike was level before you started. I recommend documenting to the nearest 1/10^th of a degree.

How to get the perfect saddle height on your bike

Once you have your three measurements, it’s time to get started.

There’s no shortage of ‘old school’ methods for seat height: the ‘Holmes method’, ‘Lemond method’, armpit on the saddle and fingertips to the centre of crank, and so on.

To some extent, these have all been discredited by new schools of thinking in bike fitting, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t useful.

Determining saddle height with the heel method

As a place to start, the ‘heel method’ is a very quick way to establish a baseline height. I still find it quite useful.

This process can be done in a doorway, or better yet with the bike on a stationary trainer.

Hop on the bike and place your heel on the pedal, in whatever shoes you plan on riding in.

Pedal forwards or backwards, but do it slowly. If the saddle is too high, you’ll not be able to pedal smoothly without having to rock your hips from side-to-side, overreaching. Move your saddle down 1 to 2cm at a time until this back and forth stops.

Conversely, if it’s easy to pedal smoothly, try going up a few centimetres at a time until you have to start reaching for the pedals. Once you’re reaching, start edging your saddle back down until you find yourself in an ideal starting height.

How to use an app to determine your saddle height

Leave the ‘heel method’ in the rear-view mirror and try putting your foot on the pedal as you would when riding. If this means clipping into clipless pedals, then go for it.

If you prefer to ride with flat pedals, then put about 1/3 of your foot in front of the pedal axle, and 2/3 behind.

At this point, a stationary trainer is pretty much a necessity if you want to give a proper evaluation of your seat height.

If you don’t have one, it’s still certainly possible, but requires help from a friend and some fancy smartphone camera action.

With the bike in a trainer, it’s time to snap a few photos/videos. I recommend downloading any one of a number of free apps for capturing and analysing motion.

The app I prefer is Hudl Technique, but there are plenty to choose from. Any app that can create still images from action will suffice.

Ride your bike for a few minutes, as you would on any daily rides, adjusting your position on the seat until it feels comfortable.

Once in position, you can begin capturing some imagery. The goal is to be able to quantify how much bend is in the knee throughout the pedal stroke, and to the approximate location of the centre of your knee.

Generally speaking, at full extension (which is not 6 o’clock – more like 5 o’clock) 30 to 40 degrees of knee bend is the generally accepted range.

If you’re feeling tension at the front of the knee or a large amount of work only from your quads, the seat height is a bit low.

If you feel a dull ache at your low back, or you can feel your hips rocking a bit, the saddle is likely too high.

Using the same images track to a point where the crank arm is forward-horizontal and look to the knee.

Approximate the centre of your knee, or the point where it appears to hinge. Where in relation to the pedal axle is your knee? In front, behind, or just above?

If it’s behind, try sliding your seat forward a bit, until the centre of the knee is vertically in line with your pedal axle. Do the opposite, of course, if your knee is in front of the pedal axle.

When you moved your seat forward or backward did it feel like the seat height change? If you moved your seat forward to move your knee forward, you’ll likely need to raise your seat, too. The opposite is, of course, true if you moved your seat rearward.

This little dance goes on until you’ve found something that feels smooth and balanced. No rocking back and forth, no muscle groups feeling like they’re doing more than their share of the work, and no aching knees or hips.

Now take your bike out for a few short spins and bring your hex keys with you.

A few small tweaks can help finalise a good position, but don’t overdo the first couple of rides or you’ll be minimising the opportunity for proper and painless adaptation.

Make the saddle work for you

All of this has been under a major assumption that your saddle properly supports your sit bones.

So, does it? Do you feel definitive pressure on the two sit bones of your pelvis? If not, it could be for two reasons:

1. Your saddle shape or width aren’t matching your anatomical structure, or
2. The tilt of the saddle isn’t enabling your sit bones to do their job.

If it’s the latter of the two that’s worth discussing, largely because you can check for yourself if your bike seat is actually right for you.

The tilt of the saddle is a determining factor for where pressure is applied to the pelvis. If the front of the seat is too high it makes it difficult, if not impossible, for the sit bones to provide support.

Conversely, if the saddle is too far down at the front your sit bones can support you, but you’ll be sliding forward and subsequently applying too much pressure on your hands.

Use a piece of board and a digital inclinometer (or smartphone level app) to determine saddle tilt. Write it down! Make sure your bike is level and if not, take in to account the fact that it’s not. Now try moving things around to see what provides the most support, structurally speaking.

Most saddles fall into a 0- to 6-degree range, with positive (nose up) numbers rarely a possibility.

This is a bit of an arbitrary number, but I find it prevents extremes for new riders, which isn’t uncommon.

Sitting pretty

Now you’re all set.

If you still haven’t found true comfort after adjustments have been made, keep moving things around. Don’t forget to document your changes and how your body has responded.

If you’re not finding comfort within a few centimetres of your starting point it’s likely time to head to your local bike shop to investigate your seat shape and width.

Following the instruction above provides only a good starting point for setting your bike saddle up correctly. The way you move on the bike, what your lifestyle is like off the bike, and what types of self-care you engage in all dictate how you sit atop and pedal a bike.

Don’t listen to what worked for your friends, listen to your body. If something aches, try something new. If things are good, document the position and leave it alone!

The post How to set the saddle height on your bike appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Knowing how to repair a puncture is an essential skill that every cyclist needs to master. It can be daunting for the inexperienced but only takes a few minutes once you know what you’re doing.

In the following guide and videos below, we’ll talk you through how to repair a punctured inner tube on either a road or mountain bike in a simple, step-by-step walkthrough guide.

How to fix a puncture on a mountain bike video guide

How to fix a puncture on a road bike video guide

How to fix a puncture on a bike

Step 1. Find the puncture

Using the valve as your starting point, closely inspect the tread of the tyre to find the cause of the puncture.

Pay close attention to the sidewalls (the non-treaded portion on the side of the tyre where the pressure and size information is printed/moulded) to make sure there are no tears or holes.

Remove any glass, grit or other debris that you spot. A small flat-head screwdriver or awl is the best tool for this, but be careful not to dig too deep. A small set of pliers can also be useful for removing embedded thorns.

Even if you find one possible cause of the puncture, continue checking the tyre thoroughly until you get back to the valve because there could well be more.

Step 2. Remove the inner tube

Let the air out of the inner tube and push the valve up into the tyre, unscrewing and retaining the valve lockring if fitted.

On the side of the wheel opposite the valve, slip a tyre lever under the tyre’s bead and a further tyre lever about roughly 5cm away.

Pull the nearer tyre lever towards you, lifting the tyre’s bead over the edge of the rim. Continue until one bead of the tyre is completely free of the rim then pull the tube out.

Remove the tyre completely from the rim – with most tyres this can be done by hand unless they are exceptionally tight.

Step 3. Locate the puncture on the inner tube

If you are just going to replace the inner tube, skip to step 6.

If you want to patch the inner tube – and you ought to, it’s not that hard! – inflate the tube and listen for air escaping.

If you’re struggling to find the hole by listening alone, try passing your lips over the top of the tube.

If the hole still can’t be found, re-inflate the tube and pass it through a bowl of water, or rub the tube down with soapy water, until you spot escaping bubbles. Be sure to dry the tube before proceeding to the next step.

• Revealed: why inner tubes smell of fish

Step 4. Prepare the inner tube for patching

Select an appropriately sized patch – if in doubt, err on the side of caution and use a bigger rather than smaller patch.

Roughen the surface of the tube around the hole with sandpaper (usually included with any good puncture repair kit).

Ensure that any moulding marks on the tube are completely flattened down because these can cause issues when glueing. Thoroughly brush off any rubber ‘shavings’. Cleanliness is key when repairing a puncture.

If you’re using pre-glued patches – such as Park’s popular GP-2 patch kit – you can now patch the hole. Thoroughly press down on the patch to ensure it’s fully in contact with the tube.

If you’re using a ‘traditional’ glue-on patch kit, start by applying a generous drop of glue – or rubber cement by its proper name – to the tube and spread this across an area slightly larger than the patch you intend to use. Allow this to dry.

Similarly, apply a second, thinner layer. Once again, allow to dry – when the glue is dry, its surface will change from a shiny to a matte finish.

The key to ensuring a good long-lasting puncture repair is patience, so don’t rush this step.

Step 5. Patching an inner tube

Firmly press the patch into place after removing the backing foil – cleanliness is also key to a good repair, so leave removing the foil to the very last moment.

If there’s a thin cellophane backing on the patch, it can be left on. It’s good practice to dust any stray glue with chalk, talcum powder or fine road dust to prevent it from sticking to the inside of the tyre casing.

Step 6. Inspect the tyre casing and rim tape

Before refitting the tube, thoroughly double/triple-check the inside of the tyre casing – there’s nothing more frustrating than going to the effort of patching a tube only to puncture it again with a stray thorn you may have missed.

It’s also good practice to check the rim tape. If a hard plastic rim strip – often found on cheaper bikes – is torn, it leaves a sharp edge that can easily slice a tube.

Likewise, if your rim tape has slipped, it can leave eyelets or spoke holes exposed, which can also puncture a tube.

If you have persistent problems with your rim tape puncturing your tube, try swapping it out for something like a roll of good ol’ Velox cloth tape or similar. This stuff lasts forever, costs very little and can be reused if you’re so inclined.

Step 7. Refit the tyre

After repairing the tube and thoroughly checking the tyre, refit one side of the tyre – one bead, to use the correct term – to the rim.

Slightly inflate the tube (just enough to give it structure) and refit it to the wheel, putting the valve through its hole first.

Starting at the opposite side of the rim to the valve, use your thumbs to lift the tyre’s bead over the rim. Work your way around the rim until there’s just one small section of tyre left.

Push the valve up into the tyre and then, using your thumbs, ease the remaining section of the tyre’s bead over the edge of the rim.

If the tyre is particularly tight, avoid the temptation to use a tyre lever to push the last section of the tyre onto the rim – you’ll almost certainly pinch your inner tube doing so.

If you’re struggling to pop the tyre onto the wheel, try putting the tyre on the ground, holding it in place with your feet and rolling the bead back toward you – heavy gloves really help here. This takes a little practice, but should work with even the most stubborn tyres.

Step 8. Check the repair and inflate the tyre

Check that the tube isn’t trapped between the rim and the tyre bead by working your way around the tyre, pushing the bead into the well of the rim.

If the tube is trapped, try ‘massaging’ the tyre to encourage it to seat properly. Pumping it up a small amount may also help to seat the tube properly.

Inflate the tyre to a point where it feels soft but has maintained its shape. Then check that the moulding mark around the tyre follows the rim evenly all the way around.

If not, deflate a little and ease any high spots down and pull low spots up until the bead is fitted evenly.

Inflate fully and check once again that the tyre’s bead is still seated evenly and that the tyre isn’t lifting off the rim at any point, then adjust your pressures to suit.

Fixing a puncture: useful tips

• When taking the tube out of the tyre, note which way the tube was around in the wheel. This will help identify the position of the hole in the tube once the position of the object in the tyre causing the puncture has been found
• Once you’ve located the hole in your puncture, mark it with a piece of chalk (usually included with a repair kit) so you can pinpoint it accurately later
• If you don’t have any sandpaper, you can try gently to roughen the tube by rubbing it against a stone or the road surface, but be very careful

How to identify a puncture

‘Regular’ puncture

A ‘regular’ puncture is usually caused by debris – glass, thorns, wire, nails etc. – entering the tread of the tyre and piercing the inner tube.

There’s little you can do to avoid these types of puncture beyond opting for puncture-resistant tyres. While effective, these are best saved for town or commuting bikes because they tend to weigh a lot more than regular tyres and really dampen the ride quality of a bike.

Those unfortunate enough to get punctures regularly may have noted that they tend to get more flats during wet weather. This is because surface water essentially acts as a lubricant, allowing anything sharp to enter the tyre more easily.

Wet weather allows debris that would otherwise stay on the ground to stick to your tyre more easily too, with the rotation of the wheel slowly driving it into your tyre.

Snakebite/pinch punctures

Two small holes in a tube placed fairly close together indicate a pinch – or snakebite by its other name – puncture. This is caused by the tube getting trapped between the tyre and the rim when riding over a hard-edged object, such as a prominent rock or a kerb.

Tyres that are not inflated enough are the most frequent cause of this. If you consistently get pinch flats, particularly on a mountain bike, it may be time to convert to tubeless.

If you have a pinch flat, be sure to check that the tyre’s sidewall isn’t cut as well.

Rim tape or spoke puncture

A hole on the inner side of the tube indicates that the puncture was caused by something around the well of the rim, usually a rough edge on a spoke hole or torn rim tape if it is made of hard material.

Check around the inside of the rim to ensure that the rim tape properly covers the spoke holes and that all spoke holes are free of swarf – if you find any sharp edges, these can usually be filed down.

A less common cause of a puncture is a rough edge around the valve hole. A puncture here will occur at the base of the valve and will not be repairable.

What puncture repair kit should I buy?

The puncture-fixing brigade is divided into two distinct camps: those that insist on using an old-school, glue-on patch kit and those that prefer pre-glued patches.

In our experience, traditional glue-on patches are more reliable in the long run, but pre-glued patches are far, far more convenient.

What you prefer to use will largely be down to personal preference and likely dictated by your temperament – is stopping for five minutes to fix a tube properly and enjoying the view an opportunity to be relished or an unwanted distraction?

For those that want pre-glued patches, Park’s GP-2 patches are our favourite.

For an old-school style patch kit, it’s hard to beat the exceptionally cheap Nutrak P3 kit.

For those after a more Gucci patch kit – yes, such a thing exists – you can bring a bit of French charm to your saddle bag in the form of this handsome patch kit from Rustines.

Whichever patch kit you buy, if it comes with one of those nasty little multi-tools that feel as though they’re made from cheese rather than metal, please put it into your nearest recycling point. Trust us when we say that they’ll do more harm than good to your bike.

It’s also a good idea to pack a pair of gloves with any repair kit. Braking surfaces, particularly rim brake surfaces, will make an absolute mess of your hands and nobody wants to inadvertently grab a stray patch of dried-out dog poop on a tyre with bare hands.

What are the best tyre levers?

Believe it or not, not all tyre levers are made equal.

Thankfully, we’ve done the hard work for you, whittling down a selection of the best tyre levers out there, with Pedro’s levers coming out on top.

What is the best pump?

While a mini pump is a great option if you’re out on the road, do yourself a favour and get a decent track-style pump for use at home – these take far less effort to use than a mini pump and will allow you to get your tyres up to much higher pressures.

If you prefer to take a CO2 inflator with you, check out our round-up of the best CO2 inflators.

Weekly check-up for tyres

Check your tyres for cuts in the tread, swelling in the sidewall or serious wear.

Tyres with severe cuts, swelling or casing visible through the tread must be replaced. Remove any grit or glass embedded in the tread with a fine pick.

Regularly check your tyre pressures with a proper gauge. Tyres inflated to the correct pressure will have fewer punctures and a longer life.

We’ve got full guides to road bike tyre pressure and mountain bike tyre pressure, so you can optimise your setup to balance speed, comfort, grip and puncture resistance.

The post How to fix a bike puncture: video tutorial and easy step-by-step guide with tips appeared first on Ebikes Online.

A bike works more smoothly, lasts longer and looks better when it’s clean. That will make riding it more enjoyable and save you money long term.

While it may be tempting to just pop it in the shed until your next ride, even a few minutes spent at regular intervals will improve your riding experience and the longevity of your bike.

Regardless of what shape your bars are or how many suspension parts your bike has, any build-up of dirt will wear through moving parts if left to do so. As important as it is to clean your bike after a filthy wet ride, it remains key after dry, dusty ones too.

Here’s how to clean your road or mountain bike in seven simple steps.

Bike wash essentials

• Water source: a bucket or garden hose. A jet wash/pressure washer can be used, and while the jury is out on whether it does force dirt past seals and reduce bearing or bushing life, it’s definitely best not to point it directly at bearing or suspension seals
• Workstand (optional, but undoubtedly helpful)
• Brushes. Several brands offer a ‘bike wash brush kit’ with brushes for the various applications, but if you don’t have those, a couple of toothbrushes and an old dustpan brush will do
• Chain cleaning device or a specific stiff-bristled toothbrush if you don’t have one
• Degreaser
• Bike wash fluid (preferably environmentally sound)
• Chain lube
• Paper towel or rag
• Chamois leather

What you need to get started

How to clean a bike in 7 simple steps

Step 1: Clean the drivetrain

If you have a chain cleaning device, use it to clean the chain. If not, you’ll simply have to apply the degreaser and use a brush. You’ll need the brush for the cassette and derailleur(s) in any case.

If you want to know everything there is to know about cleaning a bike chain (and likely more), check out our ultra in-depth standalone guide.

Make sure you have a specific brush for your drivetrain, and don’t use it on any other part of the bike, particularly the brakes – contaminating your braking surface with chain filth will ruin performance and may force you to replace your brake pads.

You may need to use something to dislodge stubborn grime from places such as jockey wheels, and some brushes have a hooked handle for exactly this. A flat-headed screwdriver and an awl can help here.

Step 2: Wipe the discs or braking surface down

At this point, it’s wise to wipe your discs or rim brake surface down.

However careful you are cleaning the chain, there’s always a chance muck can find its way onto your rotors. It can also cause issues on rim brakes.

Spray some degreaser into a clean paper towel and wipe around the rotors.

Step 3: Rinse and apply detergent

Use your hose, or bucket and sponge, to wet the bike and remove the majority of the mud and grime that has built up.

If you’re using a jet wash, stand well back or turn the intensity down.

Spray detergent along the main tubes and the areas most affected by dirt.

More on bike cleaning & maintenance

• How to clean your bike chain
• Don’t make these common bike maintenance mistakes
• Make sure your bike is safe to ride with the M check
• How to jet wash a bike

Step 4: Brush clean

After a few cleans, you’ll develop your own routine – front to back or top to bottom. Pay attention to moving parts and use a smaller brush to get into narrower spaces.

The brushes combined with the detergent will loosen most of the remaining dirt from the bike. Remember the undersides and awkward bits that also need attention. An old rag is very useful for threading behind tight areas such as the crankset and front derailleur.

Step 5: Rinse

Use fresh water to rinse off the bike. Spin each wheel to rinse all the detergent out of the tread. Check all the dirt has been lifted off and revisit with the brush if any remains, then rinse again.

Step 6: Dry

If you have a workstand, now is a good time to move the bike into it. Use an old dishcloth or chamois leather if you have one to dry the bike.

Then, fastidiously avoiding braking surfaces, give it a polish with PTFE or silicone spray. Rub it in with a paper towel or soft cloth. Not only will this make your bike shine, it’ll also reduce the amount of muck that will stick to it on the next outing.

Step 7: Lube

Apply lube to the chain while turning the pedals. Pay attention to manufacturer recommendations because it’s very easy to overdo it with lube.

If the bike is not in a workstand, you’ll need to turn the pedals backwards. Use a moisture dispersant lube on your derailleur pivots, taking extreme care to avoid your braking surfaces.

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