The drivetrain on a bike enables you to pedal forward and typically change between gears, making it easier or harder for you to ride on a given gradient.

Here, we describe the different bike components that make up a drivetrain and explain their functions.

What is a drivetrain?

A drivetrain consists of the parts that help you to move the bike.

In a wider context, the drivetrain is part of the groupset, which also includes the shifters and brakes. The easiest way to understand the function of a groupset is that it contains the parts that enable you to move and stop.

Although the drivetrain doesn’t include the shifters, the shifters are the component that controls the drivetrain when you change gears.

What parts are in a bike’s drivetrain?

The drivetrain almost always consists of a series of bike components that work together to enable you to change into different gears.

It typically includes one or two derailleurs, mechanisms that change gear when actuated at the shifter.

The chain is an integral part of many drivetrains. It passes through the relevant derailleurs and over the cassette and crankset, which contain your gear ratios and act as a point for you to drive force through the system when you pedal.

Not all bikes feature gears, such as singlespeed bikes, and some bikes use alternative systems, such as belt drives.

1x vs 2x

There is an increasing trend for the best gravel bikes and best mountain bikes to feature 1x drivetrains rather than 2x drivetrains, which are typically found on road bikes.

A 2x drivetrain has two chainrings and a front derailleur, whereas a 1x drivetrain forgoes a front derailleur and uses a single chainring.

1x drivetrains save some weight because they have fewer components, and there is also no need for a gear cable or electrical wire to route from the shifter.

1x chainrings often feature a ‘narrow-wide’ profile where the teeth alternate between narrow and wide, to better hold the chain.

The rear derailleur on 1x drivetrains will often feature a clutch mechanism, which increases the weight of the component, to help retain the chain and stop it slapping on the driveside chainstay.

Crankset

The crankset (often referred to as the ‘chainset’ and sometimes ‘cranks’) is the centrepiece of the drivetrain.

The crankset helps you move the chain as you pedal, transferring force from your legs to the rest of the drivetrain and ultimately to your bike’s rear wheel, helping you move forward.

Cranksets comprise of two crank arms with chainrings that the chain runs over.

The bottom bracket bearings allow the crankset to rotate smoothly and freely.

The crankset typically includes an axle or spindle that holds the entirety of the crankset together. However, some crankset designs, particularly older ones, do not include an axle or spindle, and this is part of the bottom bracket, instead.

Chainrings

The chainrings are effectively your front gears and consist of teeth that hold the chain in place.

Bikes will typically feature between one and three chainrings.

It is worth considering the range of gears you would like to use in combination with your cassette.

Chainrings come in a range of sizes to suit all riding disciplines. The size of a chainring is determined by the number of teeth it has. For example, a 50-34 means the outer chainring consists of 50 teeth and the inner 34 teeth.

If you are running a 1x chainring, this will simply be listed as one number, such as 40t, denoting there are 40 teeth.

Cranks

The crankset comprises two crank arms, which the pedals are attached to via a threaded section.

Cranks can be of different lengths, typically from 165mm to 175mm, with longer lengths giving you more leverage.

Crank length is typically specced according to the size of bike, and corresponding height. However, leg lengths can vary across different heights, so this could be an area to explore for optimal performance.

Front derailleur

The front derailleur is the mechanism that moves the chain between the chainrings on the crankset. As its name suggests, it derails the chain from one chainring and pushes it onto another.

The front derailleur is actuated by the left-hand shifter on most shifting systems. There are some exceptions with electronic groupsets, where you can often customise which buttons shift what derailleur via their respective apps.

Bikes that feature a single chainring don’t have a front derailleur. This is quite common on mountain bikes and gravel bikes.

There are two different ways front derailleurs are mounted to the bike frame: band-on and braze-on.

Band-on derailleurs have a hinged metal part that fits around the seat tube of the frame.

Braze-on front derailleurs fix to a mounting plate that’s typically riveted onto the driveside face of the seat tube.

In terms of front-derailleur compatibility, you should stick with the manufacturer and series of the rest of your groupset.

Rear derailleur

The rear derailleur is the mechanism that shifts the chain at the cassette.

There are different types and designs of rear derailleur, but they all serve the same function and work in a similar way.

The component is actuated by the right-hand shifter on most groupset systems.

Rear derailleurs include a derailleur cage that houses pulley wheels (referred to in the UK as jockey wheels) that the chain wraps around.

Rear derailleurs will have a certain number of ‘speeds’ – generally from 7 up to 13.

Some rear derailleurs feature chain retention measures such as a clutch mechanism to prevent the chain from slapping on the driveside chainstay. This can be very useful when riding off-road and makes for a quieter ride.

Rear derailleurs typically attach to a bike’s frame via a derailleur hanger using a single bolt.

As with the front derailleur, you should stick with the manufacturer and groupset series your bike has because the cable pull (the amount a derailleur moves for every millimetre of cable pulled through by the shifter) of the shifter is specific to the rear derailleur.

Cassette

The cassette is a replaceable cluster of sprockets installed on the rear wheel. The rear derailleur moves the chain up or down the cogs.

Cassettes come in a wide range of sizes to suit all riding disciplines. The size of a cassette is usually expressed by quoting its smallest and largest cogs. For example, an 11-32 cassette means the smallest cog consists of 11 teeth and the largest 32.

Gravel and mountain bikes tend to have wider-ranging cassettes than road bikes. This is because gravel and mountain bikes tend to have 1x drivetrains and consequently the cassette has to provide easy gearing to winch yourself up steep climbs and gears that are big enough for fast riding on the flat and downhill.

Cassettes might have anything from 7 to 13 sprockets, depending on their intended use and manufacturer. The latest flagship road bike groupsets  and mountain bike groupsets from Shimano and SRAM feature 12-speed cassettes. Campagnolo also sticks to 12-speed cassettes on the road but its Ekar gravel groupset is 13-speed.

The cassette fits onto the freehub of the wheel. The inside of a cassette has notches that align with splines on the freehub.

Manufacturers and brands have different spline and cassette designs. It’s always worth checking you are buying the correct cassette for your freehub, or the right freehub for your cassette, when buying a new wheel. A full explainer on freehubs, how they work and their compatibility can be found in our guide to freehubs.

Chain

The chain is the component in your drivetrain that is subject to the most abuse, as it passes through all of the aforementioned components.

The chain is made up of a series of links, with most chains having alternating wide and narrow links in a pattern that repeats for the length of the chain.

Chains also have ‘speeds’ and you should use the correct chain for the number of speeds your groupset has. It’s also worth checking if a new chain is compatible with your specific groupset.

Chains wear through use. They stretch in length and side-to-side movement between links increases. They will often be the first part of the drivetrain that you need to replace.

If they are not replaced in time, chains can wear out the cassette and chainrings. These components are more expensive to replace than chains, so it’s worth keeping an eye on how worn your chain is and replacing it if need be.

We’ve got a detailed explainer on how to replace your chain.

Electric bike drivetrains

Electric bike drivetrains can sometimes differ from conventional, geared drivetrains on non-assisted bikes depending on the type of electric motor they use.

If a hub-based motor is used, electric bikes will almost always have a conventional, geared drivetrain.

If a bottom-bracket based motor is utilised, often found on the best electric bikes, then front derailleurs are often not compatible. The system will, therefore, use a 1x drivetrain. There are some exceptions, though.

Singlespeed and fixed-gear drivetrains

Singlespeed and fixie bikes have simpler drivetrains than other bikes without derailleurs, a cassette and shifters.

They typically consist of a wider chain, chainring and sprocket. They are more efficient because the chain doesn’t have to go through any derailleurs, which puts it at an angle and accelerates wear.

You’ll need to pick your preferred chainring and sprocket size wisely, based on the terrain you are riding.

Some singlespeed bikes feature freehubs, which allow you to coast, whereas others do not and you’ll have to keep pedalling no matter the gradient.

Belt-drive systems

Some bikes use a belt drive instead of a chain. These are particularly popular with commuters because they tend to be cleaner than chains and consequently diminish the risk of getting clothes dirty. They are also increasingly found on electric bikes.

Belt-drive systems forgo a cassette and chainrings. They require less maintenance because they’re not made of metal and thus do not need degreasing or lubrication.

Typically, these systems are quieter-running and more durable than other drivetrains, but they are less efficient, usually more expensive and spares can be difficult to find.

Hub gears

Hub gears are another popular drivetrain option and are often found on commuter bikes.

Rather than having derailleurs, the gears are incorporated into the hub of the rear wheel, resulting in less maintenance. However, they are heavier and maintenance is more difficult than derailleur gears.

The post Drivetrains explained: all of the parts that make your bike go appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Getting fitter and more aero, or splashing out on the latest superbike, are ways to go faster (or lighten your wallet), but few of us have the time or money.

Thankfully, some of the best bike upgrades present simple and often affordable ways to ride faster, further and in greater comfort.

In fact, some of the smartest upgrades will even save you money in the long run by preserving expensive parts.

Others, meanwhile, will see you spend less time fixing punctures on the side of the road, trail or track.

What’s more, unless your bike already has an impeccable spec, well-chosen upgrades can transform your ride, without breaking the bank.

Here are eight of the best upgrades you can make to your bike.

You can also check out our guide to the best road bike upgrades, with more tips for dedicated roadies, or head to our piece on the best MTB upgrades for specific mountain bike recommendations.

Eight of the best bike upgrades in 2022

1. Tyres

Quality tyres grip well and puncture infrequently, while upping your average speed. Simon von Bromley / Immediate Media

Whether you’re riding a road bike, mountain bike, gravel bike or hybrid, the most effective, affordable upgrade you can often make will be to change its tyres.

While there are exceptions, the tyres specced on off-the-shelf bikes can be underwhelming. It’s an easy area for bike brands to cut costs.

Cheaper tyres will usually deploy cost-saving measures such as using harder, less grippy rubber or a more basic construction with inferior puncture resistance.

Switching to a set of the best road bike tyres can make big improvements to the speed, comfort and handling of your bike.

This might also be an opportunity to convert to tubeless tyres. By ditching inner tubes, tubeless tyres can help stave off punctures and boost comfort by allowing you to running lower tyre pressures. We’ve got a guide to the best tubeless tyres for road bikes.

Upgrading your tyres can unlock new levels of riding. Rondo

Things get a little more complicated with mountain bike tyres, where there are countless options for different styles and conditions, but choosing a set of tyres that match your intentions on the bike can transform the ride.

The best gravel bike tyres sit somewhere between the two. If you’re riding a gravel bike, upgrading your tyres to something wider or grippier can help unlock more confidence on rough terrain, while a fast-rolling gravel tyre will boost your speed if the going’s less tough.

2. Handlebar tape

Wave goodbye to bad vibrations by upgrading your bar tape. David Caudery/Immediate Media

As the contact point between your hands and bars, handlebar tape is designed to provide shock absorption and grip.

The best handlebar tape is a cost-effective way to make your bike more comfortable – and breathe new life into a machine that’s feeling a bit tired.

Plusher tape will ensure fewer vibrations pass through the handlebars, so riding over broken surfaces and long days out are more forgiving on your hands, wrists and arms.

Plus, handlebar tape offers the opportunity to personalise your bars with cork or leather for a traditional look, or lively-coloured modern synthetics.

However, there’s a knack to fitting the stuff. Read our guide on how to wrap handlebar tape if you’re unsure.

3. Seatpost

Some seatposts, such as the Ergon CF Allroad Pro Carbon, are designed specifically to improve comfort. Ergon

The seatpost extends vertically from a bike’s seat tube and holds the saddle in place. By moving up or down, they also permit saddle height adjustment.

But, while the seatpost has a simple job on the face of it, don’t forget this humble component when it comes to upgrades.

Seatposts flex to varying degrees in order to protect your backside from jolts and vibrations.

Cheaper bikes tend to have alloy posts, which often provide a harsher ride than carbon equivalents.

Some seatposts, such as the Ergon CF Allroad Pro Carbon with its leaf-spring design, are also designed specifically to offer more flex than a typical post.

A lighter and more comfortable carbon seatpost is a smart upgrade at reasonable cost.

4. Saddle

A saddle with carbon rails is a worthwhile upgrade. David Caudery / Immediate Media

Saddles are another component that can be underwhelming on otherwise impressive bikes.

Saddle choice is highly personal, too, so replacing your existing seat with something more comfortable for your rear-end will make a big difference to your enjoyment on the bike.

Saddle design varies significantly from one model to the next, with varying levels of padding or features such as pressure-relieving cut-outs, while many saddles also come in a choice of widths.

Some saddles, meanwhile, are designed for a racier position on the bike, often with a shorter nose to allow you to get into a more aggressive, aerodynamic riding position.

As saddles are a highly personal choice, we recommend trying before buying, but our guide on how to choose a bike saddle will get you started.

5. Cleaning kit

Washing a bike is much easier when everything’s to hand. Tom Marvin / Our Media

Bike cleaning kits contain everything you need to keep your bike looking smart and running smoothly.

These typically include a bike cleaner, degreaser and chain lube. Brushes and sponges are also normally included for applying and removing the products.

Such kits are often worth more than the sum of their parts. They’re easy to keep tidy and organised for when you need to clean your bike after a ride.

Everyone wants a clean bike but, more importantly, keeping your bike clean will improve the efficiency of your drivetrain and preserve your components in the long run.

6. Service

A good service will have your bike running as new again. Allan McKenzie / SWPix.com

Regular servicing can iron out more minor niggles, such as squeaking brakes and mysterious creaks.

A good mechanic will spot signs of drivetrain wear that, if acted on, can save a lot of dosh down the line.

An ageing chain, for example, will chew through your chainrings and cassette.

Replacing the chain as it approaches its end is far cheaper than leaving it too late and having to buy expensive drivetrain parts.

A full service at your local bike shop should also look at often-neglected parts of the bike. Bearings in the rear hub and bottom bracket benefit from an occasional clean and grease.

While a service isn’t as fancy as a shiny new part, your bike will run like a dream after spending some time with a good mechanic, and it could save you money in the long run.

7. Bike fit

A professional fit can help you sit more comfortably on the bike. Immediate Media

If your bike isn’t the correct size – or it’s the right size but doesn’t offer a good fit – that’s an issue.

A correctly fitting bike is more comfortable and efficient, and therefore, more enjoyable to ride.

While most bikes offer a degree of adjustability, there are limits – and if yours is significantly too large or too small you may want to consider trading it in.

For less experienced riders, it’s a good idea to visit your local bike shop to ask for advice on how to perfect your position on the bike. If you’re looking to buy a new bike, a good shop will also be able to help you choose the right size and cover basic setup.

More advanced riders, or riders with specific niggles and fit requirements, may want to seek the advice of a professional bike fitter. These aren’t cheap, but some cyclists, whether racers or injury-prone recreational riders, swear by them.

8. Wheels

Wheels are often ripe for an upgrade. Simon von Bromley / Our Media

Okay, we’re getting into more expensive upgrades here, but wheels are another component ripe for switching, if your budget allows.

Some brands are prone to scrimping on wheels to lower the cost of complete bike builds. Many mid-range bikes roll out of the factory on wheels that don’t do the frame or rest of the build justice.

As a result, one way to improve the ride of your bike is to upgrade from its stock wheels, whether that’s to lower weight or improve aerodynamics.

Switching from alloy to carbon wheels, for example, is one of the pricier bike upgrades, but still much cheaper than a new bike.

The best road bike wheels are lighter, faster and increasingly compatible with wider tyres, adding additional comfort into the mix, too.

In addition, spare wheelsets may enable you to use the same bike, particularly a gravel bike, on a variety of terrain.

The post Eight of the best upgrades you can make to your bike – without breaking the bank appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Most of us don’t think about the cables that connect our bike’s controls to their derailleurs and brakes until they stop working well or break. However, they play a critical role in ensuring your bike runs, stops and shifts smoothly.

In this guide, we’ll cover: how brake and gear cables work; what the differences between the two are; how road and mountain bike cables differ; and why investing in high-quality cables is worth it.

Of course, if you’ve got hydraulic disc brakes and electronic shifting, you can be smug and move on, but for the majority of bike riders, wire cables are part-and-parcel of the riding experience.

How do bike brake and gear cables work?

Brake and gear cables are a form of Bowden cable.

They comprise an inner cable made of twisted steel wire that runs through an outer sleeve from your bike’s control levers on the bar to the brakes or derailleurs.

There may be parts of the inner cables that are unprotected by the outers, particularly for gear cables, with the outers finishing in ‘stops’ attached to the frame. Many cables now also route through outers that run their full length internally through the frame.

The inner cable is anchored at both ends. Pull on the bike’s brake levers or push the gear shifters and the inner cable is pulled through the outer cable, which in turn operates the brake caliper or derailleur.

There’s a spring in the operated device – whether that’s a brake caliper or derailleur – that moves it back when the cable tension is released.

Brake cables vs. gear cables – what’s the difference?

The jobs done by brake cables and gear cables are different, so they’re built differently.

Your brake needs to work without risk of failure and to transmit significant force to the brake caliper, so the inner cable is built thicker than a gear cable.

You can afford to have a bit of compression in the outer without it affecting braking performance significantly but it’s very important that it doesn’t split lengthways, so the metal wire in it is usually helically wound.

Modern bike gears are usually indexed, where one click of the shifter moves the rear derailleur one sprocket or shifts the front derailleur between chainrings. There’s less force applied, so the cables can be thinner, but the movements of the cable need to be precise.

To accomplish this, gear cable outers are constructed differently from brake cables, with a bundle of individual wires wound over a long length to make the cable outer more or less compressionless.

There’s also usually a plastic inner lining to help reduce friction between the inner and outer cables.

You can’t mix and match gear cables and brake cables – you need the right set of inners and outers for each job.

Using gear cables for brake cables is exceptionally dangerous and you should never do it. You run the risk of them snapping at the worst possible moment, with potentially very serious consequences.

Road vs. mountain bike gear and brake cables

Differences go beyond cable thickness too.

At the derailleur or brake end, both brake and gear cables have ‘raw’ ends that are fixed by a clamp.

At the lever end, though, they have differently shaped nipples – the lumps of permanently affixed metal that hold them in the levers – again making them non-interchangeable.

The shape of these nipples is different between mountain bike (cylindrical) and road bike (pear-shaped) brake cables.

There are also slight differences between the standards used by Shimano and Campagnolo for both gear and brake cables for road bikes.

Why high-quality bike cables matter

Both brake and gear cables have to withstand a lot of stress.

On road bikes, under-bar tape cabling means they have to move through tight turns. There are also bends at the derailleur end of cables on all types of bike. Internal routing only complicates the issue.

Gear cables are wound through particularly tight curves within the shifters too, which means there’s a lot of potential for wear.

Brake cables normally have an easier time of it because their runs are straighter, but there’s much more force travelling through them.

In both cases, you really don’t want your cables to fail.

A snapped derailleur cable will mean a long ride home in a single gear. The effects of a broken brake cable could be much more serious.

It’s a good idea to check your cables regularly for wear or fraying and replace them if you see any damage.

Pay particular attention to gear cables inside the shifter bodies because that’s where they usually break.

Is it worth buying expensive brake and gear cables?

Generally speaking, more expensive bike brake and gear cables will feature polished inners, higher-quality outers and, potentially, better sealing from the elements. This should help ensure your brakes and gears work smoothly and predictably for longer.

Below is a selection of high-end brake and gear cable options from the three big mainstream groupset manufacturers, and some third-party options.

Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 road gear cable set

• £49.99

The Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 road gear cables are stainless steel and run through a stiff outer casing with a polymer lining lubricated with silicone.

Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 road brake cable set

• £45.99

Shimano’s Dura-Ace 9000 road brake cable set has a similar construction. Stainless steel wires are wrapped in a low-friction polymer casing, greased on the inside with silicone.

Campagnolo ER600 Ultrashift/Powershift ULF Ergopower 11-speed cable set

• £37

The Campagnolo ER600 Ultrashift ULF Ergopower cable set is a brake and gear cable replacement kit in one. It also features stainless steel wires coated in a smooth polymer sleeve that is internally lubricated.

SRAM SlickWire Shift Cable

• £37

Like Shimano and Campagnolo’s top-tier offerings, SRAM’s SlickWire Shift Cable is a stainless steel wire with a braided nylon casing. End caps, ferrules and frame protectors are also included. The cables are compatible with road and mountain bikes.

SRAM SlickWire Pro Brake Cable

• £50 / $52

SRAM’s SlickWire Pro Brake Cable is also made from polished stainless steel and threaded inside a slick nylon outer cover, and works with road and mountain bikes.

Jagwire Road Elite Link Shift kit

• £85

Jagwire’s Road Elite Link Shift cables eschew traditional compressionless cable housing made from Kevlar in favour of aluminium links. These surround the lubed liners and polished stainless steel inner wires.

Jagwire Road Elite Link Brake kit

• £61.99

Jagwire’s Road Elite Link Brake kit also has an alloy link housing that holds slick stainless steel wires within lubricated liners.

Cheap bike cables

Less expensive bike cables still tend to have stainless steel inner wires coated in polymer sheaths, but are not always internally lubricated. Some are not compatible with disc brakes.

Shimano Road Gear Cable set

• £23

The entry-level Shimano road shift cable lacks the supposedly low-friction Optislick coating seen on the brand’s more expensive options.

Shimano Road and Mountain Bike Brake Cable Set

• £16.99

Shimano’s basic brake cables are half the price of the Dura-Ace set, but their construction is much the same.

Jagwire Basics Shift Kit

• £9.29

The Jagwire Basics Shift Cable set has slick galvanised wires and best suits five- to seven-speed bikes, according to the brand.

Jagwire Basics Brake Kit

• £12.73

Jagwire’s Basics brake cables don’t come with lubricated liners and are rim-brake only on road and mountain bikes.

Replacing gear cables

When the time does come to replace the cables, it’s worthwhile investing in good-quality ones. They’ll be less prone to corroding and should be smoother-running in the outers.

Speaking of outers, it’s a good idea to replace these semi-regularly too. The continual movement of the inners will cause their internal sleeves to wear over time.

Contamination, which is largely unavoidable, will also degrade performance over time, even when you fit new inner cables.

You can guard against this to some extent by fitting an anti-contamination ferrule at each end of the cable run. This is particularly important for mountain bikes, cyclocross bikes and gravel bikes, which are likely to get mucky.

If you’re only replacing the inner cables, it’s worth lightly lubricating the new inner when you fit it. Higher-quality new cable sets will typically come pre-lubed though.

If you’re replacing the brake and gear cables on your bike – whether that’s just the inners or the complete set – you should use the right tools to get a clean finish. Proper cable cutters are fairly affordable and do a much better job than side snips.

Make sure you fit the correct caps/ferrules to the cut ends of both inner and outer cables to prevent fraying and to keep the drivetrain and brakes working properly.

Cables are a fairly affordable bike part, so when you change yours, splashing out on a high-quality set is genuinely worth the extra expense for the improved performance.

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A bike tool kit is a great choice if you’re just getting into cycling or you’re looking for a more comprehensive set of tools for the car or garage.

Many people build up their collection of bike tools over time, but a specialist tool kit is an easy and often more affordable way to get all the tools you need for virtually any bike maintenance, from changing a cassette to installing new brake cables.

Take a look at the best bike tool kits that we have tried and tested below, and our guide to some of the essential tools a kit should include.

Essential tools for a bike tool kit

Many modern bikes might seem more complicated than bikes of years gone by, but at their core, they are still relatively simple to work on and use the same selection of tools for most maintenance.

In addition to your basic pump, tyre levers and puncture repair kit, these are the essential bike-specific tools any home mechanic’s tool kit should include and will cover some of the most straightforward jobs on a bike.

Allen/hex keys

A multi-tool is great for on-the-road repairs and adjustments but try to have a good set of Allen/hex keys in your toolbox.

A decent T-handle set with a ball end on the long side is a good place to start – this allows you access to awkward bolts with reduced risk of rounding.

Torque wrench

Torque wrenches are available cheaply and you can get very compact bike-specific ones. The bonus to using them is that you avoid over-tightening anything, which can affect your warranty on – or simply break –  parts you regularly tighten, such as the frame, fork or handlebar.

Just remember to undo the torque adjuster before throwing it back in the box.

Pedal spanner

A proper pedal spanner will give you a better chance of leveraging off pedals, especially if they haven’t been removed in a long time. A good pedal spanner is usually flatter and thinner than a regular spanner, which you may struggle to get between the pedal and crank arm to undo.

Always apply anti-seize compound to the pedal thread before installation to avoid wrestling with your pedals in the future. Check out our comprehensive guide on how to remove and change bike pedals for more info.

Chain breaker tool

A chain breaker tool is an essential bit of kit you should get familiar with using properly.

Use it to repair stiff links and to take your chain off for serious cleaning and so prolong the life of your chain and parts. You can even use it to take out a link and put a speed-link in to make removal/cleaning even easier.

Chain whip and cassette lockring tool

A chain whip holds the cassette in place and stops the freehub from spinning when removing the lockring of a cassette. It is also used to remove the cog from a fixed-wheel bike.

A good chain whip will have a decent length handle that will help you gain some mechanical leverage and make light work of removing a lockring.

Check that the chain whip is compatible with the width of the chain that you run on your bike. For instance, is it suitable for 11-speed chains?

You will also need a splined cassette lockring tool if you want to remove your cassette for replacement or cleaning. SRAM, Campagnolo and Shimano all use different standards for these.

Bottom bracket tool

A bottom bracket (BB) tool helps you remove or install a bottom bracket into the bottom bracket shell of a bike.

There is a wide variety of BB tools available due to the numerous bottom bracket standards out there and the different ways of installing and removing a bottom bracket, so making sure you have the right tool for the bottom bracket on your bike is a must.

Shimano Hollowtech II is arguably the gold standard with many brands opting to use it for external bearing and threaded bottom brackets. Shimano Hollwtech II tools also fit a wide variety of BBs from different brands and often work with adaptors for other standards.

Best bike tool kits

PRO Advanced Toolbox

• £200 / $290 / AU$453 as tested
• Quality feeling tools
• Needs to be topped up to be comprehensive

The PRO Advanced Toolbox has 25 tools that are well-made, a decent weight and feel like they’ll endure the test of time, as you’d expect of PRO (Shimano’s in-house parts brand).

Rubberised handles give great grip and enhance usability. The Allen keys have a precise fit and both the cassette tool and chain tool are 12-speed compatible. Quick-link pliers are a handy addition to the set.

The custom-cut foam inlay keeps the tools firmly in place, while the metal clasps on the carry case are robust and secure.

Ideally, it’d include a complete Torx set (it has T20, T25 and T30 wrenches) and a 1.5mm Allen key. If we’re being really picky, a flat-blade screwdriver would be nice too, but overall, there’s little to criticise with this excellent kit.

• Read our review of the PRO Advanced Toolbox

Birzman Essential Tool Box

• £150 / $178 as tested
• Professional-looking kit
• Pricey

The Birzman Essential Tool Kit is a professional-looking kit, with each of the tools stowed in a labelled foam pocket within the hard plastic case.

Thirteen ‘pieces’ are provided (20+ tools), covering most of what’s required to build a bike. The chain and pedal wrenches are long enough to unstick seized parts. Notches on the Allen keys are useful for checking they’re inserted far enough.

Adaptors are provided so you can use the cassette and bottom bracket tools with the 8mm Allen key, avoiding the need to add an adjustable spanner.

We’d downsize the chain rivet extractor and add a pair of cable cutters.

LifeLine X-Tools Bike Tool Kit 37-piece

Alex Evans / Immediate Media

• £70 / €79 / $104 / AU$145 as tested
• Wide selection of good quality tools
• Some tools that won’t get a lot of use

The tools in the LifeLine X-Tools all have a quality feel that exceeds this kit’s budget price.

We particularly like the Allen keys, which fitted nice and tightly in every bolt we tried. The cassette tool can be used with SRAM XD cassettes, and the chain whip and chain tool are 12-speed compatible too, with the latter working especially well.

The dedicated ¼in bit driver makes the kit ripe for expanding in the future, as your mechanic’s skills grow.

The case feels fairly low-quality and the contents rattle in it when it’s carried. This kit includes an internal BB tool and crank puller, which aren’t that useful for modern bikes. It’s a shame there isn’t a full set of Torx keys, only T25 and T30.

• Read our review of the LifeLine X-Tools Bike Tool Kit 37-piece

Topeak Prepbox toolbox

• £320 / €320 / $400 / AU$600 as tested
• 36 usable, good quality tools
• High price

The Topeak Prepbox has 36 tools and is fairly comprehensive. The tools feel weighty and high-quality.

The long Allen keys are easy to use, and the inclusion of the 1.5mm size is a bonus. It’s great to see a torque wrench included too, and we found the chain tool particularly good for helping to free sticky links.

The case is sturdy, with foam cut-outs for each tool and zipped covers. During transit, there was no rattling and the tools remained in place.

While the cable cutters are sharp, they don’t have the smoothest action. The cassette tool’s chamfered edges mean it doesn’t engage that securely with SRAM XD 11- and 12-speed cassettes.

A couple of the tools – the internal BB tool and crank puller – are virtually redundant now and could be replaced.

• Read our review of the Topeak Prepbox toolbox

Also consider

The following tool kits scored lower than the four out of five stars required to make our best list, but are still worth considering.

Halfords Bikehut 30pc Bike Tool Kit

• £60 (international pricing N/A) as tested
• Plenty of tools covering most jobs
• Solid performer but could do with some improvements

The Halfords Bikehut 30pc Bike Tool Kit is a solid performer and should complement the budding mechanic with a host of bike-specific tools that serve well as a segue into more technical tasks.

The rubberised handles on the larger tools are comfortable to hold. The 8mm Allen key proved useful and doubles up as a ½in driver for other tools in the kit, but the driver can easily slip off. We found the quick-link pliers worked well and the tyre levers feel robust.

The Allen keys are short, so they only offer limited leverage for loosening tight bolts.

We found the combined pedal spanner/chain whip frustrating to use as a spanner because the chain contacts your hands, and the whip is a tight fit with 12-speed cassettes.

During transportation, the tools all remained in place, helped by the central foam separator, but they did rattle around. The plastic carry case is durable and locks closed with metal clasps.

• Read our review of the Halfords Bikehut 30pc Bike Tool Kit

Halfords Essentials 25-piece cycling tool kit

• £35 (international pricing N/A) as tested
• Wide range of tools
• Large size tools

The Halfords Essentials Tool Kit is an 18-piece kit that combines a large number of tools (Allen key sets, etc, are counted as single ‘pieces’) in a sensibly priced package.

There’s no T25 Torx wrench, though, which is widely used on modern mountain bikes.

The chain whip, 8mm Allen key and external bottom bracket tool have very long handles, which help when trying to loosen seized bolts. Angled jaws on the equally large pedal spanner reduce the risk of skinned knuckles.

Lower manufacturing tolerances mean the tools don’t have the same high-quality, durable feel as some of the others on test, and removing and replacing tools in the plastic box is fiddly.

Lezyne Port-A-Shop

• £110 / $120 as tested
• Allen and Torx wrenches
• Glueless patches

The Port-A-Shop from Lezyne is more of a (well-presented) multi-tool expansion kit than the portable workshop its name suggests.

However, it provides a range of tools that should cover most car park bike-tinkering needs. The bulk of them are contained within three high-quality multi-tools.

There’s a wide range of Allen and Torx wrenches, and the inclusion of traditional and glueless patch kits is a nice touch. A separate spoke key would be easier to use than the one integrated into the chain tool.

The range of tools falls short of other kits here if you’re looking to fully assemble a bike.

Pedro’s Starter Tool Kit

• £170 / $150 / AU$200 as tested
• Tool wrap case
• Some extra tools needed

Presented in a durable-feeling tool wrap, this selection of 19 high-quality tools is a good starting point for the home mechanic to expand upon.

Pedro’s ‘cog wrench’ is a hassle-free alternative to a chain whip, with a great handlebar-grip-style handle. The cable cutters are another highlight, slicing through both inners and outers easily.

You’ll need an adjustable spanner (not included, but there is room for one) to make use of some of the tools.

At this price, we’d expect common bike tools such as a T25 Torx wrench and bottom bracket tool to be included.

The post Best bike tool kits 2022 | Top-rated choices for the home mechanic appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Tubeless tyre technology for bikes is exactly what you’d imagine from the name – it does away with inner tubes, working in much the same way as the tyre and rim of a modern car.

Tubeless is now the default option for mid-range to high-end mountain bikes and gravel bikes, and it’s becoming increasingly popular for road bikes too.

This guide covers the basic principles of tubeless and we’ve got separate advice on tubeless setup for road bikes and tubeless setup for mountain bikes.

Don’t miss our guides to the best tubeless road tyres, the best mountain bike tyres, and the best gravel tyres.

Also, if you want to optimise your tyre setup for speed, comfort, grip and puncture protection, we’ve got in-depth guides to road bike tyre pressure and mountain bike tyre pressure.

If there are any technical terms or jargon that aren’t familiar, scroll to the end of the article for a full glossary.

What is a tubeless tyre? How does a tubeless tyre work?

A tubeless tyre looks like a standard tube-type clincher tyre but requires no inner tube and, once ‘seated’ (seating is the process of snapping the beads into position), it forms an airtight seal with the rim.

A valve just like the one you’d find on an inner tube is fitted directly to the rim.

For the system to work, neither the rim nor tyre can leak air, so the tyre needs to fit tightly to the rim.

Sealant poured into the tyre or injected through the valve helps plug any tiny leaks. This sealant stays liquid inside the tyre and will heal small punctures suffered while riding.

Tubeless tyres are not to be confused with tubular tyres. Tubulars (also known as ‘tubs’ or ‘sew-ups’) are a traditional type of tyre that’s glued or taped to a tubular-specific rim. They are still widely used in road racing and cyclocross but have otherwise largely been replaced by high-performance clinchers.

Tubeless tyres – pros

The number one advantage of tubeless tyres compared to standard clinchers with inner tubes is they can be run at lower pressures without the risk of pinch flats.

A pinch flat occurs when your tyre hits an obstacle (such as a rock or the edge of a pothole) and deforms to such an extent that it squashes the inner tube against the rim. This leads to a characteristic ‘snake bite’ style double puncture.

With no inner tube to trap, and sealant in the tyre to heal small punctures, a tubeless setup is much less prone to flatting overall, and so allows you to reap the benefits of lower tyre pressures.

These include greater comfort, and potentially more grip and speed too, although the relationship between tyre pressure and performance is complex so it’s hard to generalise.

Tubeless tyres may also have lower rolling resistance and therefore be faster than an equivalent tubed setup, but again it’s hard to generalise because there are many variables and it depends exactly what you consider to be an apples-to-apples comparison.

There is a general consensus that tubeless tyres roll faster than tubulars, though, and this is driving a gradual adoption of tubeless by pro road racers.

The advantages of tubeless are pretty clear cut for mountain bikes and gravel, but the picture is more nuanced for road use – many riders feel the added complexity is not worth the benefits.

Tubeless tyres – cons

Tubeless setup and maintenance is inherently more onerous than using inner tubes, tubeless tyres cost more than non-tubeless tyres, and you’ll need to keep buying sealant.

Some tubeless tyres mount easily and will seat on the rim using a normal pump. However, this often isn’t the case and some tyres are tricky to mount and/or need a dedicated tubeless inflator or air compressor to seat.

Sealant can be messy and needs to be renewed periodically – typically every few months – because it gradually dries out.

Tubeless tyres also need to be pumped up more frequently than tubed tyres – it’s advisable to check your pressures before every ride.

Do I need special tyres and rims to go tubeless?

For the best and safest results, tubeless requires both tyres and rims designed specifically for the job. Tubeless tyres have stretch-resistant beads to prevent blow-off under pressure and casings that are sealed to prevent air loss.

Rims vary in design but usually have a central channel to make tyre fitting easier, and humps that keep the tyre beads locked in position. The majority also have bead hooks to aid tyre retention, but hookless rim designs are also common and some brands claim these offer an advantage.

It used to be common in the mountain bike world – and cyclocross/gravel to some extent too – to run standard tube-type clincher tyres and/or standard clincher rims tubeless.

However, with the choice of proper tubeless tyres and rims now on the market, there’s not much incentive to do this. Results with homebrew setups vary greatly, and it’s definitely not the easiest or safest option.

With a road bike, you should never run a non-tubeless tyre tubeless or attempt to convert a standard tube-type rim. The higher pressures used on the road make this dangerous and the consequences of failure can be serious.

Tubeless-ready vs. tubeless compatible

These terms are sometimes used interchangeably and don’t have standardised definitions.

For some brands, a tubeless-ready rim is exactly that, and all you need to do is insert a valve (which may or may not be included with the wheels), fit an appropriate tyre and add sealant.

If a wheel is described as tubeless-compatible, it’s likely you’ll also need to fit tubeless tape to seal the rim.

In the road world, it’s not uncommon for bikes to ship with tubeless-compatible wheels, but non-tubeless tyres.

That means you’ll need to fork out for a set of new tyres in addition to the other bits if you want to ditch your inner tubes – a significant extra outlay.

Hookless rims are only suitable for tubeless-specific tyres. You can usually fit an inner tube if you need to (for example, as a get-you-home measure – you’ll need to remove the tubeless valve first, of course), but you can’t fit a standard tube-type tyre because there’s a risk it will blow off the rim.

Tubeless standards are a bit of a mess

For mountain bikes, tubeless compatibility is mostly straightforward but tyre designs vary and some will be more porous (and hence require more sealant to hold air) than others.

In the late nineties, Mavic created the UST standard (Universal System Tubeless), and this is only designed to work with UST-conforming tyres and rims.

These tyres are made to an exacting specification and are heavier and more airtight than many ‘tubeless-ready’-designated tyres.

Otherwise, you should expect any tubeless-ready mountain bike tyre to work with any tubeless-ready mountain bike rim, unless the respective manufacturer explicitly forbids it.

For road and gravel bikes, things are a bit messier. Tubeless standards haven’t yet fully settled down and you should pay close attention to rim and tyre manufacturer guidelines when considering a particular combination.

How do I set up my tyres tubeless?

We’ve got separate guides on tubeless setup for road bikes and mountain bikes, but here are the basics for setting up your wheels tubeless:

1. Fit appropriate tubeless rim tape according to manufacturer guidelines.
2. Insert tubeless valves through rim tape and tighten down the retaining nut.
3. Work tyre onto rim, one bead at a time. If you’re pouring sealant into the tyre rather than injecting it through the valve, do it before pushing the second bead into place. If you’re injecting it through the valve, remove the valve core first.
4. Inflate tyre. Depending on your rim and tyre combo, your energy levels and the alignment of the planets, this might work with some vigorous pumping of a track pump. If not, you’ll need a tubeless inflator or a compressor.

What happens when I puncture a tubeless tyre?

Overall, you should experience fewer punctures with tubeless. The beauty of the technology is that small punctures are healed by sealant as you ride, sometimes without you even noticing.

Larger punctures or slashes require more intervention. Your options are:

• Attempt repair with a tubeless tyre plug kit
• Remove the tubeless valve from the rim and install a standard inner tube

We’ve got a separate guide on how to repair a tubeless tyre.

Is tubeless worth the hassle?

It depends. For mountain bikes it’s an unequivocal yes. For gravel bikes it’s a yes, assuming you want to get the best out of your bike and you do actually take it off tarmac.

For road bikes, it’s a yes if you want the performance benefits or you suffer a lot of punctures, but the differences are less stark.

At BikeRadar we’re broadly pro-tubeless, but we recognise it’s not for everyone and we certainly wouldn’t recommend it for a bike that’s used infrequently because the sealant will simply dry up.

The post What is a tubeless tyre? Everything you need to know appeared first on Ebikes Online.

It’s only a few years since disc brakes were anathema to many road riders. Pro riders were especially vociferous in expressing their disapproval – or, at worst, hatred – of the new braking technology.

Step forward to 2021 and all but one of the 19 teams (Ineos Grenadiers) look likely to be riding WorldTour bikes kitted out with discs.

That’s in part due to bike makers switching their output almost exclusively to disc brakes. But even teams, such as UAE Team Emirates, who have the option and were riding rim brake bikes last year have this year made the switch to disc brakes.

That switch away from rim brakes isn’t confined to premium models and has trickled down to budget road bikes too. They may have cable disc brakes rather than hydraulic systems, but you’ll find plenty of road bikes under £1,000 kitted out with rotors.

So what exactly are road disc brakes, and why all the fuss? Are they really any different from other recent advancements in bike technology? And which braking system comes out on top when comparing disc brakes and rim brakes?

• Disc brakes are now the default on road bikes – and no one cares

What are road bike disc brakes, anyway?

The most fundamental difference between traditional rim brakes and disc brakes is where the braking forces are applied.

As the name suggests – and just as it’s been done for decades – rim brakes clamp directly on to the sides of the wheel rim itself. In this way, the rim serves as a main structural component of the wheel, the mounting base for the tyre and the braking surface all in one.

In contrast, disc brakes move all braking duties to a separate rotor that is much smaller in diameter and mounted directly to the hub – much like everyday automobiles or motorcycles, and pretty much all other wheeled vehicles.

The brake caliper is still mounted to the frame and fork but is situated much closer to each wheel axle.

Another key difference is how each type of brake is usually operated. With a few rare exceptions, rim brakes are ‘cable-actuated’, meaning the levers are connected to the caliper with braided steel cables (bowden cables, to use the engineering term) that slide through some sort of housing.

You pull the lever, which then pulls on the cable, which then forces the caliper to clamp down on the rim.

Disc brakes are more often than not of the fully hydraulic variety, where the cable and housing are replaced by a non-compressible fluid and a hose in a fully sealed system.

When you pull the lever on a hydraulic brake, it pushes a plunger in a ‘master cylinder’, which then pushes that fluid through a hose to the caliper at the other end. That hydraulic pressure is what pushes the caliper pistons out and clamps the disc brake pads onto the rotor.

Like a rim brake, a cable-operated disc brake has a wire running to the brake mechanism, but in this case the cable pulls one or two of the pads in the caliper together to squeeze against the rotor.

Cable-operated disc brakes are cheaper and slightly less efficient than hydraulic disc brakes due to the friction and stretch in the cables, and are normally found on lower priced bikes.

Who makes road disc brakes?

SRAM was first to market with a disc-specific road bike groupset, although there were mechanical disc brake options from Avid and others available before its 2012 Red Hydro R came along.

That was followed in 2013 by Shimano and finally in 2016 by Campagnolo, so you can now find options from all the major road groupset manufacturers.

Initially disc brake options were limited, but all three brands have now trickled hydraulic disc brakes as an alternative to rim brakes into many of their groupsets. They’re also a feature of groupsets designed for gravel bikes, including Shimano GRX and Campagnolo Ekar, and single chainring drivetrains.

This means you can find disc brakes at a wide range of price points, including the top-tier Dura-Ace, Red and Super Record groupsets for Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo respectively.

The technology is also now available right down to cheaper options: Apex 1 for SRAM, Tiagra for Shimano and Chorus for Campagnolo. Shimano also offers a mechanical disc brake option for Sora.

Alongside hydraulic disc brakes from the big three, you can often find mechanical disc brakes on lower priced bikes: TRP (who also make the Hy/Rd mechanical/hydraulic hybrid caliper), Hayes and SRAM’s Avid brand are common options.

Disc brakes vs rim brakes: why disc brakes are better than rim brakes

Disc brakes offer several key advantages over rim brakes.

First, they generate much more stopping power, meaning there’s less force required at the lever to generate the same amount of deceleration as on a rim brake.

This can be a big help on long and steep descents where ‘arm pump’ can eventually set in, or for heavier riders who have struggled to find enough power from traditional brakes (the same issue applies to heavier bikes, such as touring bikes and tandems).

An added bonus is that braking power can be boosted (or tempered, depending on your preferences) by changing rotor sizes. A bigger rotor will increase the mechanical leverage and heat dissipation while a smaller one will save weight for riders who just don’t need the extra braking force.

Granted, stopping power on any wheeled vehicle is inherently limited by traction. And as many of you will know (possibly through painful experience), it’s already quite easy to lock up a wheel on a bike with rim brakes – which brings us to advantage number two: control.

Disc brakes offer better modulation than rim brakes, meaning it’s easier for the rider to precisely meter out how much clamping power is generated. Peak stopping power occurs just before the point of lock-up, and disc-equipped bikes are better equipped to flirt with that edge without crossing over. 

Disc brake power also tends to be more linear and predictable than on rim brakes, and it’s far more consistent in varying weather conditions, especially when compared with using rim brakes on carbon rims – a combination that yields notoriously poor performance in the wet, yet is also prone to overheating when dry.

Scott Sports

Another advantage of hydraulic disc brakes exploited by bike makers is that you’ll get the same braking efficiency regardless of how much the brake hose twists and turns.

That’s allowed bike brands to develop complex internal routing and increase front-end integration, with hidden cable and hose runs from brake levers to point of action, and associated aerodynamic improvements.

Disc brake wheel rims can also be made lighter than rim brake wheels. In a rim brake design, the need to handle the compressive force of the brake pads, the expansive force of the tyre and the heat generated by braking require greater strength and heat dissipation than a disc brake rim, where it’s just the tyre pressure that needs to be handled. It’s easier to optimise the rim’s aerodynamics when designing for disc brakes too.

Likewise, disc brake frames can be built differently to rim brake frames. While there’s a need to beef up the left fork leg and left-side chainstay, there’s less force acting on other parts of the frame, which can be thinned out.

Bike makers have also learned how to make disc brake bikes as aerodynamic or more so than rim brake bikes.

Disc brakes vs rim brakes: why rim brakes are better than disc brakes

The biggest advantage of rim brakes is weight. Although disc and rim brake components themselves aren’t very different weight-wise, once you add the rotor, the system weight of a disc brake setup is typically a few hundred grams greater.

However, as we’ve covered in the previous section, wheels and frames for the latest generation of bikes can compensate for this.

The simplicity of cable-actuated rim brakes has plenty of upsides, though. Parts are generally cheap and widely available, there’s a very high degree of compatibility between multiple brands and vintages.

Rim brake systems are easy to repair when needed – even on the side of the road, or in the middle of nowhere with limited availability of spare parts. Rim brakes are also easy to adjust, unlike some disc brake systems, where disc brake rub and squealing can be persistent issues.

On top of that, it’s worth pointing out that the latest rim brake systems are better than ever, particularly on mid to high-end groupsets, and provide plenty of stopping power on tap.

There was an aesthetic argument that rim brake bikes are in some way prettier than disc brake ones, which was widely held when disc brake road bikes started to appear.

We’d say that argument is now less relevant. The clean lines that disc brakes and internal routing allow, particularly around the front end of the bike, more than compensate for the rotor.

How disc brakes change road bikes

Cast aside the various conspiracy theories surrounding why the bike industry seems so hot on disc brakes. Of course, companies would love to sell more bikes and gear than they do now – that goes without saying.

However, history has repeatedly demonstrated that major changes in bike technology have only shifted the types of bikes and gear that people buy, not the grand total.

The fact of the matter is that the bike industry sees the road disc movement as a way to advance bike technology forward in a meaningful way in one big step. Bikes equipped with brakes that work better are safer, full stop (pun intended).

Without having to worry about accommodating a caliper, disc-equipped road bikes can more easily fit higher-volume tyres and wider rims for improved traction and performance on a more diverse mix of terrain.

That’s opened up the chance for road riders to fit much wider tyres, with 28mm or more now being the norm on many road bikes, in place of the 23mm tyres seen just a few years ago. It’s a change that can make for a much more comfortable, grippier ride, without a significant downside in speed or aerodynamics.

Since the seatstays no longer have to be reinforced to accommodate a rim brake, they can be made more flexible too, also augmenting comfort.

These changes are also driving the boom in gravel bikes and more capable endurance bikes. 

The move to disc brakes has come with a concurrent transition to thru-axles. Although it’s still faster to install and remove a wheel on a disc brake bike with quick-release skewers, there’s still too much variability in how the wheels fit into the frame and fork.

This can lead to issues ranging from annoying (pads rubbing on rotors) to terrifying (unanticipated wheel ejections under hard braking).

Thru-axles instead use closed dropouts that more consistently place the wheel in the same spot relative to the brake caliper, and are safer to use in general with less chance of user error.

They also provide a more rigid connection between the wheel and frame than quick-release hubs, so that a frame can be lighter without losing stiffness.

Road disc brake compatibility and standards

The switch to disc brakes means that bike makers have designed frames that are in general incompatible with rim brakes; you can’t fit disc brakes to a rim brake frame and you can’t swap from discs back to rim brakes, except in a few cases, such as the Wilier Cento10 NDR, which has been designed to allow you to fit either type of brake.

Disc brakes not only require dedicated fittings on the frame and fork for the caliper but, ideally, localised reinforcements to handle the added stresses applied.

Meanwhile, the wheels require hubs with either a six-bolt or Centerlock-splined interface to attach a rotor. Neither of these can simply be added after the fact.

There’s virtually no mixing and matching allowed between disc brake brands either, at least as far as hydraulic options are concerned. There’s a fair bit of flexibility for combining different makes and models of rim brakes, especially when you factor in smaller aftermarket brands, whereas disc brakes are much more limiting.

SRAM hydraulic disc brake calipers can only be paired with SRAM levers, for example, and the same goes for Shimano and Campagnolo.

Cable-actuated disc brakes from TRP, Paul Components, SRAM/Avid, Hayes and others offer more flexibility, but even then differing cable pull ratios between the various makes, models and even years of levers have to be considered for optimal functionality.

Implications for long-term maintenance and serviceability

Hydraulic mountain bike disc brakes have long been widely accepted in the off-road market, so there’s plenty of history to go on in terms of long-term maintenance and serviceability, and it’s a mixed bag.

On the one hand, hydraulic disc brakes are fully sealed from the elements and require little-to-no everyday maintenance – most of the time (cable-actuated disc brake maintenance is more in line with conventional rim brakes). There’s also no housing for grit to get into and no cables to fray.

As an added bonus, they even self-adjust for pad wear so the lever pull stays consistent over time. Aside from occasionally bleeding the system with fresh fluid – most companies recommend doing this about once a year – there’s not much to it.

Bleeding hydraulic systems does require special tools, with a full home kit running about £45 / $55 (plus a few extra for fluid annually). Alternatively, having a shop do it will cost about £40 / $60 each year, give or take.

Disc brake pads also tend to be slightly more expensive (about £50 / $80 vs £40 / $60 per full set of good ones), but the real-world differences are quite minor when you factor longevity into the equation. Keep in mind, however, that regularly riding in wet, gritty conditions can skew those figures dramatically.

Conventional rim brake cable and housing is far from cheap though, especially if you prefer to use higher-grade stuff (as you should…), so while rim brakes hold an advantage here, the differences aren’t as dramatic as they might seem.

If something actually breaks, however, rim brakes hold a big edge since it’s much easier to diagnose – and repair – a problem.

For most users, hydraulic disc brakes will be akin to electronic equipment: while you can often figure out an issue on your own, most cyclists won’t have the equipment or knowledge to do so.

If you’re the type to run things into the ground though, keep in mind that there are definite upsides to not subjecting your rims to regular wear.

Whereas it’s very expensive to replace a rim that’s been worn down from long-term braking, disc brakes only require a new rotor. Speaking of which, those rotors are also less likely to go out of true than a rim.

Will disc brakes replace rim brakes completely? Perhaps not. At the very least, rim brakes will likely live on with smaller brands and niche applications, but with mainstream brands, the tide has been turning towards discs for some time now. 

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