Knowing how to check your bicycle chain for wear can prevent you from being stranded on the roadside with a broken chain, keep your drivetrain running efficiently, and, in the long run, save you money.

In this guide, we’ll take a look at what chain wear is, why it matters and how to prevent it from costing you money in the long run.

What pieces make up a chain?

A bicycle chain is made up of lots of individual pieces. These include the pin (also known as the rivet), outer links, inner links, bushing and roller.

On most modern chains, the bushing is integrated with the inner plate and holds in the circular roller.

Each chain link is joined onto the next, alternating between outer plate and inner plate. A whole chain link is commonly thought of as one segment of outer and inner plate together.

A chain has a 0.5in (12.7mm) spacing between pins. This is the chain ‘pitch’ and is an industry standard on multi-speed bikes.

In this article, we’re only referring to standard ‘derailleur’-type multi-speed bicycle chains.

What is chain wear?

Chain wear is commonly referred to as ‘chain stretch’, because the chain’s pitch grows in length as it wears. This is the most important type of chain wear, and the growth comes from the bushings wearing with the chain pins. Over time, the inner diameter of these bushings increases and the pins groove out.

It’s often stated that a chain is worn once it reaches one per cent growth from the original 0.5in (12.7mm) pitch.

Another type of chain wear is ‘slop’. This isn’t as easy to measure, but it is common with riders who don’t put a lot of torque into their drivetrain, or perhaps spin a higher cadence.

Worn-out rollers increase the side-to-side play in the chain. As a result, the shifting is sloppier because the shifting ramps of the cassette or chainring need to work harder to derail the chain onto the desired cog.

It’s important though to bear in mind that chain slop won’t wear out other components.

The rate at which a chain wears depends on a plethora of factors. These include the discipline of riding and the terrain, the model of chain, which gears you ride in and how you change gear. Arguably, the most significant factor is how you maintain your chain.

Why should I care about chain wear?

Chain wear will lead to poor shifting and lost efficiency. Additionally, a severely worn chain is weaker, and there’s nothing fun about a snapped chain.

Perhaps most importantly though, chain wear can cost you a lot of money if left too long.

There are knock-on effects for the rest of your bike, too. A worn chain can wear the cassette and ultimately any chainrings  on your crankset. Cassettes and chainrings are typically more expensive than chains, so costs can escalate quickly if a worn chain is not replaced in time.

A new chain at a 0.5in pitch is designed to sit deep into the cog. As the pitch increases, the chain rolls higher up on the tooth and causes rapidly increased cog wear as the point of contact is reduced. Too much wear, and the chain will start skipping over the top of the cog.

Provided you replace the chain before it passes its wear limit, it’s possible to run multiple chains on your bike without having to replace your cassette or chainrings. For the majority of drivetrains, that is far more economical than having to replace the cassette and chainrings every time you need a new chain. This is especially true when considering the cost of a cassette on some groupsets.

How do I measure a chain for wear?

Chain wear is best measured using a specific chain checker tool, but it’s possible to use an accurate ruler or tape measure.

Using a ruler, a new chain should measure exactly 12 inches across 12 links, from middle of pin to middle of pin. The number most commonly agreed on for a worn chain is one per cent elongation between links. In reality though, you should replace the chain before this point.

So, therefore, anything past 12 1/16in (0.5 per cent) would be the time to replace a chain. Anything past 12 1/8in (one per cent) has been worn to death and so a new cassette is likely needed.

Holding a ruler perfectly straight while lining it up to measure 1/8in is difficult, and chain checker tools provide a far simpler and quicker ‘go or no-go’ result.

Whichever way you choose to measure a chain, be sure to not include the quick link, if you have one installed because they wear slower than conventional links.

Typical chain checker tools are the easiest way to check a chain for wear. The tool drops into your chain, giving you a quick ‘go’ or ‘no-go’ gauge result.

Different tools are intended to show you different levels of chain wear, showing if the chain has stretched by 0.5 per cent, for instance. Many will be double-sided, giving you two readings.

If a chain is worn, the two ends of the tool will fall into the chain links and it will sit flush with the chain.

If the chain is okay, the tool will sit above the chain.

More expensive chain checkers can produce more precise readings. The most expensive tools are digital and work by installing the chain checker into the chain and opening up the tool until it hits the end of the link.

Not all chain checkers are compatible with the Flattop chains SRAM uses on its road and gravel eTap AXS 12-speed drivetrains. This is because the chains use oversized rollers. SRAM has a compatibility document on which tools will work.

How often should I replace my chain?

Different chains will have different wear limits, and with drivetrains now offering up to 13 speeds, there is a lot of variation in how worn a chain can be.

A 6 to 10-speed chain should be replaced when it measures 0.75 per cent on a chain checker. If it is stretched to 1 per cent, the cassette should be replaced with it.

11 to 13-speed chains should be replaced at 0.5 per cent on a chain checker. The chain and cassette should be replaced if it has stretched to 0.75 per cent.

Chains don’t wear evenly, so for the most accurate result, it’s best to take measurements on at least three different parts of the chain.

It’s worth noting that the manufacturer’s recommended wear limit can differ from the above.

Unfortunately, riding distance is not an accurate indicator of chain wear, and keeping a check on measurement is the best way to know if you should replace your chain.

Getting into a routine of regularly cleaning your bike chain will stop contaminants building up, which can act as a grinding paste in the drivetrain and accelerate the rate of wear. As well as degreasing and cleaning the chain, you need to dry it and then apply chain lubricant.

It’s worth incorporating checking your chain for wear into your maintenance regime.

You could also wax your chain, which can further protect it from wear-increasing contaminants. However, chain waxing is time-intensive and requires investment in kit and supplies.

What if my chain is already worn?

Exactly how much wear your chain has will dictate your available options. On terribly worn drivetrains, the teeth of the cogs will begin to look hooked from the chain wearing high on them. 

If you’re at this point, replacing just the chain isn’t really an option. Instead, you will have to replace the chain, cassette and likely your chainrings. 

If you continue to ride with an excessively worn chain, you also run the risk of it snapping. 

If your chain is slightly past the wear limit, you may be able to get away with replacing just the chain. Simply fit a new chain and if you experience any skipping on the cassette or chainrings, you know the old chain has worn the cassette and chainring and these now need to be replaced. 

If you continue to run a new chain on an old cassette or chainring, the chain will wear prematurely. 

There are some exceptions, such as on cheaper bikes, where it’s more economical to let the chain and cassette wear together and replace both in one go. It’s worth familiarising yourself with how much the particular components on your bike retail for before deciding your chain-replacement strategy. 

What is the best chain checker?

There are strong opinions on what style of chain checkers work, and which ones cause premature wear readings. Some claim chain checkers are susceptible to false reading by taking into account roller movement by pushing the pieces in opposite directions.

Drop-in style chain checkers from the likes of Shimano and Pedro isolate roller wear by measuring pin wear in the same direction. They are viewed widely as being accurate across all brands and speeds of chains.

Chain tension can affect the wear reading because the more tension you put through it, the higher the wear reading. On some of the newer style of chain-checking tools, such as Park Tool’s CC-4, the reading the tool supplies is also subject to hand pressure.

A dirty, or thickly lubricated chain will likely show as less worn than a clean chain, so for the most accurate wear reading, it’s worth cleaning your chain.

When comparing Shimano’s CN-42 checker to the likes of a Park Tool CC-3.2 and a KMC Digital gauge, we found the results to be broadly similar, signalling wear at about the 0.75 per cent point. For the identical Shimano Ultegra 11-speed chain, the KMC digital chain checker showed 0.89 per cent.

Ultimately, it’s more accurate to check a chain for wear using a specific tool than not to. A drop-in style tool will do the job well for almost all riders, but others will deem the increased accuracy of a digital gauge worth the price.

The post Bicycle chain wear explained | How to know when to replace a bike chain appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Cleaning the chain on your bike is a key part of reducing wear, improving performance and showing love to your bike. This is the ultimate guide to cleaning bicycle chains, and likely contains more information than you bargained for.

Your bicycle chain will wear for various reasons, but the key accelerant is grit within that grinds away the metal. While reducing wear through chain cleaning is certainly the factor that will save you money, you should also consider the efficiency that’s lost through all that abrasive friction.

Why should I clean my bicycle chain?

Jason Smith, of independent testing facility Friction Facts, confirms there’s a measurable amount of efficiency lost from a dirty chain.

“The numbers can vary based on the ‘dirtiness’ of the chain, but on average, testing shows a dirty road chain can decrease efficiency by about 3 to 5 watts (at 250-watt rider output) – about 1 to 2 per cent of power loss,” he says.

“For example, say a properly cleaned and lubed chain consumes about 7 watts. The light road grit kicked up from a couple of ‘clean’ road rides can cost an additional 3 watts of frictional losses.”

Smith explains that number increases with the grit: “Riding on several road rides without cleaning or relubing can cost about 5 watts of losses. In extreme cases (MTB or cyclocross for example), we’ve seen a muddy chain add 12 watts of losses over baseline.

“When a chain is not properly cleaned and lubed, friction levels increase at the sliding surfaces of each chain link. At 95rpm with a 53t front ring, 40,280 chain link articulations occur every minute [an articulation is a link bending into or out of a ring, cog, or pulley] as the chain snakes through the drivetrain. Because of the high number of links constantly articulating, it is crucial to make sure the friction is minimised within the links.”

Many riders make the mistake of not degreasing their chains, prior to lubrication. If you lube a dirty chain, it will only continue to attract more contaminants and not be of particular benefit. You also run the risk of having a ‘chain tat’ if your leg comes into contact with a dirty chain on a ride. However, it’s better to lube a grease-covered chain prior to a ride than do nothing at all.

Should I take my chain off my bike to clean it?

Jonny Ashelford / Immediate Media

Everyone has a slightly different view on whether the chain should be on or off the bike for a thorough cleaning.

Removing a chain from the bike and shaking it in a jar of degreaser used to be common practice, but not so much anymore. With chains becoming more precise as further gears are added to modern drivetrains, our techniques for cleaning have had to adapt.

If your chain uses a joining pin to connect, rather than a quick-link, they are typically designed to go on once and then be removed only when worn out.

Calvin Jones of Park Tool expands on this, saying that “if the chain has a ‘connection rivet’, you invite creating a weak link every time you remove and install a new connection rivet. Even a master link is best left alone.

“The better master links… ‘click’ into place, and taking it off and on and off and on removes this feature. Again, you are creating a weak link.”

If your chain uses a reusable quick-link to install, then you’re welcome to remove your chain for cleaning and not worry about creating a potentially weaker link.

For those with (officially) non-reusable links, Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo all recommend using a brand-new quick-link every time a chain is installed.

However, many riders re-use non-reusable quick-links with success, despite brands insisting against it. We have a detailed guide on quick-links that delves further into the topic.

The easiest way to clean a bicycle chain

If you don’t want to go to all the trouble of deep-cleaning your chain, cleaning it on the bike fairly quickly is certainly possible.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to degreasing, cleaning and lubricating your chain on the bike.

1. If your bike is disc-brake equipped, you should think about covering your disc rotor or removing your wheel.  If you’re not going to cover it, make sure you apply degreaser as far away from it as possible – where the chain meets the chainring underneath the driveside chainstay. Alternatively, you can use a chain-cleaning device or remove the wheel and use a chain keeper (more on these shortly).
2. Spray a dedicated chain degreaser on the chain, back-pedalling to coat the entirety of the component. If using a chain-cleaning device, pour degreaser in until it reaches the fill line.
3. Rub the degreaser into the chain with a brush or rag. It’s best to use an old rag or brush specifically for the drivetrain and have a clean rag to use on the rest of the bike, to avoid getting black marks over your sparkling machine.
4. Wait five minutes, or however long the manufacturer recommends, before washing the degreaser off. In that time, you could clean the rest of the bike.
5. Wash off degreaser using water.
6. Wipe the chain with a rag or cloth until it is no longer black. If your chain is particularly dirty, you may need to repeat the degreasing process.
7. Once there is no more black residue coming off the chain, dry it. You can use a dry cloth or rag for this, or if you’re lucky enough to own one, an air compressor. Don’t leave the chain overnight to prevent rust build-up.
8. Lubricate the chain. We’d recommend a drip-on lube rather than a spray-on one. Firstly, this is to avoid getting lubricant on the disc brake rotor or caliper (if applicable) but also, by dripping the lubricant on one drop on each link, it gives you an opportunity to inspect the chain and will help you catch any issues, such as if there is a tight link or mis-pressed rivet.

Chain-cleaning devices and keepers

The majority of bicycle maintenance product brands, including Park Tool and Muc-Off, recommend the use of a chain-cleaning device.

Here, the device includes rotating brushes that work the degreaser through the chain in a controlled manner as it is back-pedalled past. Experience shows they’re all pretty similar in function, and build quality is all that really separates them.

Jones takes it a step further and recommends the use of a ‘dummy hub’ (aka chain keeper) in place of the rear cogs.

This is done specifically to avoid running degreaser through your freehub and rear-hub bearings, and is common practice among WorldTour race mechanics too.

Another benefit is easy access to the derailleur pulley wheels, a notorious spot for gunk to build up. You’ll want to buy the correct chain keeper for your bike’s axle standard.

“After using a chain scrubber, with a degreaser, follow up with a second wash of warm soapy water. Using two different solvents flushes out any grit that is left,” suggests Jones.

Smith agrees with Jones and Sampson that using a chain-cleaning device is the best answer if the chain must stay on. However, he warns of potential problems when doing so: “First, the chain cannot be submersed in cleaning fluid.”

The tension of the chain is another factor to be aware of, continues Smith: “Even though the tension is light [created by the rear derailleur cage spring], the positive tension does not allow the chain to go slack. A slacked chain opens up the sliding surfaces and allows cleaner to flow through the internals more freely than a tensed chain.”

Whether you use a stiff-bristled brush, a chain-cleaning device or the ugly sweater you got for Christmas, it’s best to do it outside. Chain cleaning is a dirty task and doing it over carpet or indoor floors isn’t advised.

Jones also warns against using harmful degreasers, stating that you shouldn’t use diesel, benzene, gasoline or acetone. There are plenty of safer and healthier options that will get your chain suitably clean.

And don’t be tempted to use a power washer as a chain cleaner “unless you are ready to overhaul the bike at the same time,” cautions Jones – because these can strip the grease from your bearings if you point them in the wrong direction.

I can remove my chain – how should I clean it?

David Rome / Immediate Media

If you have a reusable masterlink in your chain and don’t need to touch that chain-breaking tool, you’re in the minority, but this means you can take that chain off and run it through a degreasing bath.

Jason Smith is all for cleaning chains off the bike. “We recommend removing the chain to properly clean it. A quick link such as the Wippermann Connex Link facilitates easy removal. The most effective method of cleaning is by placing the chain in a simple and inexpensive ultrasonic machine.

“The ultrasonic agitation does a great job of removing dirt and grit from the internals of the links. If an ultrasonic cleaner is not available, the chain can be placed in a sealed container with cleaner and shaken vigorously,” Smith suggested.

In our experience, using Simple Green in combination with an ultrasonic cleaner has proven effective at getting the chain clean and, most importantly, getting the stubborn grit out of the rollers. However, doing this on a filthy chain takes a number of five-minute cycles (or longer) before the chain is spotless.

If you don’t have time for this, scrubbing down the chain will get almost the same results as the ultrasonic cleaner and you can have it back on the bike far quicker.

If you want to speed up the process of using the ultrasonic cleaner, scrub the chain with a stiff-bristled brush to bring back the exterior sparkle, then run it through the ultrasonic cleaner. Once done, rinse it with water and then air dry with compressed air. You will then have a truly sparkling fresh chain.

Whatever you do, don’t leave your chain to soak for an extended period of time (days). There are some horror stories out there about degreaser corroding metal and causing surface cracks.

Can a chain be too clean?

Some people believe that cleaning a chain too much removes hard-to-replace factory grease from within the rollers. While it is important to ensure a chain is correctly lubricated, there’s little risk of a chain being too clean.

“We don’t feel a chain can ever be too clean, as long as it’s properly lubed after cleaning,” reports Smith. “In fact, when Friction Facts was in the business of treating chains [the UltraFast Optimization process acquired by CeramicSpeed] we stripped the chain completely using heavy solvents. The goal was to achieve a bare metal surface, prior to the lubrication treatment.”

We asked Jones the same question, for which his reply was simply: “No, but at some point, you are cleaning just for the fun of it.”

Once the chain is clean, Smith warns not to wait too long after cleaning before applying lube: “This minimises oxidation of a dry chain.”

So what about the lube itself? Are factory-applied ones superior?

“We’ve debunked the claim that aftermarket lubes can’t get as deep into the chain as factory-applied lubes,” says Smith. “Based on the friction decay seen during testing, it takes one minute or less for a drip lube to fully penetrate the internals of a rotating chain.”

Smith says he’s done many tests on chains with factory lubes and aftermarket ones: “Some factory lubes are faster than other factory lubes, and we’ve even seen a 5-watt swing between the fastest and slowest aftermarket lubes. However, in no case have we ever seen a factory lube outperform the fastest aftermarket lubes.”

Alright, so it’s clean. Now what?

“Part of the total cleaning process is re-lubing. Choosing a high-efficiency chain lube is the easiest and least expensive way to decrease friction in a drivetrain,” says Smith.

According to Smith’s testing, there’s up to a 5-watt difference between the top-performing and lowest-performing drip lubes. “Some of the top-performing drip lubes we’ve tested are Squirt Lube, Lilly Lube, Rock-N-Roll Extreme and Morgan Blue Rolls Pro.

“Paraffin wax blends (such as Molten Speed Wax) are generally faster than drip lubes, but the application is more complex. As an option, a few companies are now providing paraffin wax optimised chains, ready to go,” he says.

For more on how to lube your chain, check out our in-depth guide to the best chain lube.

Some products claim to be an all-in-one cleaner and lube, but we’ve found these to be too thin for proper lubrication over longer rides. However, the practice is the same with any lube – wipe off the excess.

Smith agrees with such practice, stating that it’s better to lube over a dirty chain than not lube at all.

“At a minimum, a rider should re-lube the chain prior to every ride, even if they are re-lubing over a dirty chain. For efficiency, it’s better to re-lube over a dirty chain than do nothing at all,” suggests Smith.

If you follow up this advice with running the chain through a clean rag, you’ll likely stay on top of many dirty chain woes.

Prevention is perhaps the best thing in order to be lazy. Jones suggests: “First, use less oil as you lubricate. Don’t soak a chain in lube. Use a drip lube and put a drop along each joint, each link across the roller. Hosing your chain with spray certainly gets lube there as well, but it also gets it all over side plates, making the chain a dirt collector.

“It takes more time to lube each and every rivet but it also lets you inspect each one, and that will help you catch that ‘weak link’ of a burred, bowed or bent side plate, a mis-pressed rivet and a tight link,” Jones adds.

The laziest way to clean a filthy chain is just to replace it. Here, Jones offers the simple advice to measure for chain wear before each cleaning – there’s no point wasting time on a worn chain.

Once a chain is showing signs of wear, we pull the old cassette and cranks off the bike and give them a proper cleaning in a parts washer. Doing this provides a nice welcome for a fresh chain.

Should I wax my chain?

Immersion chain waxing is another option for the most fastidious of riders. It involves fully submerging a chain in a pot of melted wax. A waxed chain does a great job of resisting wear-increasing contaminants and it also results in one of the most efficient solutions. However, there’s a fair amount of work involved in immersion waxing a chain.

Senior technical writer Simon von Bromley has curated a full step-by-step guide for the process.

The post Everything you ever wanted to know about cleaning your bike chain appeared first on Ebikes Online.

The best medicine is often preventive and the best way to avoid mechanicals on the trail is to safety check your bike before you hit the singletrack.

The best tool kits for bikes will help maintain your bike and the best bike repair stands hold it off the ground to make tinkering easier.

What’s more, a clean bike is less likely to break down. You can keep yours gleaming using the best bike cleaning products.

But despite our best efforts, stuff happens. When it does, if you know what to pack for long mountain bike rides you should be prepared to rise to the occasion and save your ride.

Tools and technique won’t fix everything, which is why a fully charged mobile phone is paramount on any ride. You can call for a lift in the event of an irreparable mechanical and use the best cycling apps to pinpoint your location.

But for more common mechanical mishaps you or your riding buddies are likely to encounter, here are practical solutions to get you up and rolling.

Trailside repairs you should learn

1. Pump properly

Picture this: you flatted and have just installed a new inner tube. You’re pumping like mad with your hand pump so you can get riding again only to shear off the valve stem.

No patch will fix that. So you’d better have a second tube or it could be a long walk home.

There is a right and a wrong way to use a hand pump. The wrong way is to rest the wheel against your thigh and pump like crazy. While effective, this puts undue stress on the valve stem, increasing the likelihood of damage.

Hand pumps with extendable hoses are another great way to avoid stressing the valve stem. Josh Patterson / Immediate Media

Try resting the wheel against the ground and propping up the pump with a log or rock, so the head of the pump is in line with the valve.

Not only does this lessen the stress on the valve stem, it also gives you a firm surface to push against when inflating your tyre.

Even better, use a hand pump with an extendable hose to lessen stress on the valve stem.

2. Give sidewall tears the boot

A spare note can work as a patch, as do used bar wrappers. Immediate Media

Tubeless sealant does a good job of stopping small punctures from ruining your ride, but cuts larger than a quarter of an inch often require the use of a tube and a tyre boot.

If you simply install a tube without bothering to cover a torn sidewall, you may notice the tube starting to bulge through the tear, soon to be followed by a loud “bang!” and then a long hike out of the woods…

Keep your used energy gel and bar wrappers close at hand, not just to avoid littering the trail, but also because they come in handy in situations such as this.A wrapper makes a great tyre boot in a pinch and there are other ways to fix an inner tube without patches.

For a more permanent fix, consider using a tyre boot such as those from Park Tool.

3. Carry the right repair kit

A well-equipped multi-tool is worth the weight. Alex Evans / Our Media

Top of our repair kit essentials is a multi-tool.

There are countless multi-tools on the market. The best bike multi-tools have built-in chain tools, so consider investing in one to remove the need to carry a separate chain tool with you.

A broken chain can be one of the most jarring mid-ride breakdowns. It happens under power, usually while you’re really cranking up hill (or shifting when you shouldn’t be).

While it’s not nearly as common as getting a flat, it does happen and you should always be prepared to fix it with the proper tools.

Be sure to pack a master-link as well.

Bring these with you at the bare minimum. Our Media

We’d advise carrying a rudimentary repair kit with the following items:

Rubber gloves; zipties; duct tape, wrapped around tyre levers; spare master-link; master-link pliers; multi-tool with chain breaker; tyre plugs with installation fork.

4. Fix a cleat with your bike’s ‘back-up bolts’

A rotor bolt can step in for a cleat bolt. Our Media

Picture this: you just finished a gruelling hike-a-bike section, you have clipless pedals and go to clip in, but something feels sloppy.

Then you realise you’re missing a cleat bolt. Fear not, your bike has ‘backup bolts’ you can use in just such a situation.

In a pinch, a rotor bolt will work as a cleat bolt. Is running five rotor bolts safe? It’s safe enough to get you home.

It might not be the ideal, but World Cup weight weenies have been making do with less than a full complement of rotor bolts for years.

Even downhillers including Steve Peat have been known to use just three rotor bolts. You are not Steve Peat and we’re not endorsing this solution for weight savings, but it will get you home while allowing you to use both pedals.

To mitigate risk, take a rotor bolt from the rear wheel, and practise clipping in and out a few times before you start riding again to ensure there are no interference issues between the new bolt and the pedal.

5. Saddle rail fix

Cable ties have multiple uses and are easy to carry. Our Media

Saddle rails snap surprisingly frequently.

If this happens to you, you may be able to use zip ties to hold the hull of the saddle in a workable position until the end of the ride.

Where they need placing will depend on the design of the seat, but this works in most situations.

6. Snapped spoke spin

Secure a broken spoke to stop it getting in the way. Our Media

We’ve got tips for replacing a snapped spoke when you’re back home, but here’s how to get back if one breaks on a ride.

Wind the spoke around a neighbouring spoke to prevent it flopping around and potentially damaging the frame.

If the break is near the hub, it could pierce your rim tape.

You could also use duct tape to secure the loose spoke.

7. Singlespeed conversion

A rear-derailleur failure doesn’t have to end your ride. Andy Lloyd / Immediate Media

If you damage your derailleur hanger, hopefully you’ve packed a spare.

But if you happen to ruin your derailleur hanger and rear derailleur, then this last-resort repair will enable you to pedal home.

This repair is easier – and more reliable – if you ride a hardtail. It can be done with a full-suspension bike too, but it requires extra steps to work reliably.

We’ve got a more detailed guide on how to perform a singlespeed conversion, but for now here are the essential steps.

Remove what remains of the rear derailleur by unbolting it from the hanger. Take the rear-derailleur cable and loop it around the seatstay so that it won’t get tangled in the drivetrain.

Open the quick-link or remove a pin with your chain tool (using the quick-link is generally preferable, but you’re going to be shortening the chain anyway).

Place the chain in a gear you can pedal easily. Our Media

Attempt to find a workable gear combination with the straightest chainline possible. Use the middle chainring on a triple crankset, the small ring on a double, and, well, the only chainring on a 1x drivetrain.

Find a gear combination that will work without too much slack in the chain and splice the chain back together.

If you have a full-suspension mountain bike, be aware that most suspension designs have some degree of fore/aft axle movement as the wheel moves through its travel.

This means that while your chain might appear reasonably tensioned when you’re hacking things together, the chain will become too loose or too tight as the rear suspension compresses. To counter this, lock out the rear suspension.

It’s advisable to carry a shock pump if you have a full-suspension mountain bike. Alex Evans

If you have a shock pump handy, inflate the rear suspension to the point that the suspension won’t compress in the open position (but be sure to stay below the shock’s maximum air pressure, which is usually printed on the shock body).

High air pressure plus the lockout will minimize any rear-suspension movement that could compromise chain tension.

Have a trailside repair tip you’d like to share? Sound off in our comments section below.

The post Seven trailside repairs you need to know appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Whether you’ve just taken delivery of a brand-new bike or had it for years, this guide should offer some pointers on how to set up your mountain bike.

Technology such as mountain bike suspension forks requires adjustment according to a host of factors. The way the bike rides and feels is also influenced by components, from your mountain bike pedals down to your mountain bike shoes.

What’s more, the best mountain bike tyres won’t fulfil their potential – and could lack traction – unless your bike is suitably configured. Incorrect saddle height and angle can cause even the best mountain bike wheels to feel jittery on descents.

This is the procedure I use to set up test bikes before hitting the trails. It’s not going to get everyone’s bike perfect first time, but it’s a handy checklist that should put most people in a comfortable position without too much fuss.

You can either watch the video below or read the article for more detailed instructions.

How to set up a mountain bike in 7 simple steps

1. Set your saddle height

This may sound obvious, but saddle height is critical to comfort and too often adjusted incorrectly. The wrong saddle height can lead to sore knees or hips and less power to the pedals.

Read our guide on how to get your saddle height right if you’re not sure.

If you already have a bike that you’re sure has the correct saddle height, measure the distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle and transfer this measurement across to the new bike.

To adjust, loosen the saddle clamp, wiggle the seatpost up or down, align the saddle with the top tube and re-tighten the clamp.

Note that it may still pay to fine-tune the height further to compensate for different saddle softness, crank length or shoe and chamois choices.

2. Set the angle and position of the saddle

Most people find the ideal saddle angle is either horizontal or angled slightly nose-down. Although I see it all the time, I haven’t met anyone who has ridden with the nose pointing up and not breathed a sigh of relief once they angle it down a bit.

If your nose is pointed too far down, it can cause you to slide forwards and put more strain on your wrists to brace against the bar.

However, on full-suspension bikes, many riders prefer to point the nose steeply down to compensate for the change in angle as the rear suspension squats into its travel, particularly when climbing.

Learning how to adjust your mountain bike saddle angle allows you to experiment and find what works best for you.

It can also pay to adjust the fore-aft position of the saddle. Sliding it forwards will effectively steepen the seat tube angle, and so help the bike climb more eagerly with less front-wheel lift. On the other hand, slide it too far forward and the cockpit can feel cramped.

To adjust this with a twin-bolt seatpost, loosen the rear bolt (anti-clockwise) to angle the nose down or the front bolt to tilt it up. While the bolts are loose, slide the saddle forwards or backwards, if desired.

Next, tighten up the other bolt (clockwise) until the desired angle is reached, then tighten both bolts alternately until they’re torqued to the manufacturer’s seatpost recommendations – or tight enough to stop the saddle creaking.

3. Adjust the bar height

Handlebar height is a key adjustment that requires experimentation to find the right posture and weight distribution.

Raising it will allow you to get your weight back on steep descents, while enabling you to push the front wheel into holes and downslopes more effectively. Too high, though, and you’ll struggle to get enough weight over the front wheel on flat turns or steep climbs.

As a starting point for trail/enduro riding, try setting the grips so they’re roughly level with (or slightly below) the saddle when it’s at full pedalling height.

To change it, remove the top-cap bolt (anti-clockwise) and loosen the stem-clamp bolts enough to slide the stem off.

Swap spacers to below the stem to increase bar height or vice-versa. Refit the stem, tighten the top cap enough to stop any play, but not so tight as to make the headset stiff or creaky. Align the stem with the front wheel and tighten the stem bolts to the manufacturer’s specs.

4. Set the bar roll

Rolling the bar forwards in the stem, so the bar tips have more upsweep and less backsweep, can bring your elbows out and encourage your weight forwards into a more aggressive position. Rolling it back towards horizontal bar tips can help get your weight back on steep descents.

If you’re unsure, start with the bar tips pointing a few degrees up from horizontal. Loosen the top two stem faceplate bolts just enough to freely rotate the bar. Look at the bar horizontally and adjust until the tips are pointing just up from horizontal, then re-tighten to the stem maker’s specs.

5. Set the position of the brake levers

Loosen the brake lever clamp bolt (anti-clockwise) enough to freely slide the lever body along the bar.

You may also need to loosen any shifters or dropper-post remotes before you can move the brake lever to where it needs to be. Don’t worry about the other controls for now, the brakes are your priority.

With your hand in its natural position on the grip, find the position where your index finger sits comfortably on the outboard edge of the lever blade for maximum leverage.

Now tighten the clamp bolt just enough to hold the levers in place, but leave them loose enough to rotate on the bar.

Set the lever angle. There’s a lot of personal preference when it comes to lever angle, but I’d suggest starting with the lever blade about 30 degrees below horizontal.

When you’ve found a position you’re happy with, re-tighten the clamp bolt to the manufacturer’s specs.

Set the other lever symmetrically. You can measure the distance between the grip and the lever body to set the same horizontal position, and judge the angle by eye so it matches the first lever.

6. Set the position of the other controls

Next, fit the shifter(s) and dropper-post remote around the brakes by loosening the clamp bolts so you can slide the controls horizontally and rotate them on the bar.

With one hand on the grip in the riding position, adjust the shifter or remote with the other hand to find the most ergonomic position.

In the case of SRAM’s MatchMaker shifters, you can swap the T25 securing bolt with the 3mm grub screw to move the shifter inboard or outboard. For some bikes, you may have to swap the position of the shifter and brake lever to get the best position.

7. Set up your suspension

We’ve made a separate video explaining how to set up your mountain bike suspension. It includes dialing in the sag, spring rate and rebound damping.

It also shows you how to test if your bike is balanced and progressive enough. It’s a good starting point that should have your suspension at least in the right ballpark before you hit the trails.

The post How to set up your mountain bike in 7 simple steps appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Tyres are one of the most important components when it comes to the performance of your mountain bike – after all, they’re the only thing connecting you and your bike to the ground. As such, getting the tyre pressure on your mountain bike just right is vital to its performance on the trail.

However, there are a number of variables that go into figuring out the ideal pressure range for a mountain bike tyre, such as the tyre’s width and carcass thickness, the rubber compound, the diameter, and the rim’s width and overall shape.

The types of conditions and trails you’re riding, and your own riding style will also have a significant impact on how much air is appropriate.

Get your tyre pressure right and it will improve the comfort, grip and speed of your mountain bike. Get it wrong and, well, everything goes in the opposite direction.

Sound scary? Well, don’t worry because we’re here to help and will run through everything you need to know to get your MTB tyre pressures just right, from the factors influencing tyre pressures, right through to our own pressure recommendations.

First, a quick disclaimer: it’s worth noting that what works for one person might not work for you – everyone has different experiences and preferences when it comes to tyre pressures.

So, treat this as a guide and not a concrete system. The key is to fine-tune your pressure so you find what works for you, your bike and where you ride.

Before we get started, we’ve also got a guide to road bike tyre pressure, if you also ride skinny tyres.

What’s the right tyre pressure for your mountain bike?

Well, it depends – unfortunately, there’s not an easy answer here. When trying to decide on the correct tyre pressure for your mountain bike, it’s all about balance.

We want a tyre to remain stable and grip well in corners, and it needs to add some insulation from trail features, such as rocks and roots, again to help with grip. It also needs to remain inflated when it suffers a big hit – nobody likes punctures!

Rolling resistance is a big factor, too – how can you find a trade-off between grip and rolling speed?

What factors influence mountain bike tyre pressure?

As we’ve already touched upon, a number of factors influence the ‘right’ tyre pressure for you and your bike. Let’s run through them.

Rider and bike weight

The logical place to start is the combined weight of you and your bike. It stands to reason that a heavier rider and bike is going to need higher pressures than a lighter rider.

Why? A heavier rider will put more force through the tyres and thus this needs to be balanced with correspondingly higher pressures. The opposite applies to a lighter rider.

Terrain

Likewise, where are you going to ride? If you’re riding somewhere super-rocky and rooty, perhaps on fast terrain so you might be hitting those features at speed, you might need to up your pressure a touch.

Higher pressures mean less tyre deformation when you hit a rock, and so less chance of it puncturing – though if pressures are too high, you may increase the risk of tearing your tyre’s carcass on a sharp edge.

Conversely, if you’re riding on smoother terrain, or perhaps at lower speeds (think super-steep muddy and rooty tech trails), lower pressures will allow the tyre to deform more, enabling it to better mould to the ground’s shape, boosting grip.

As you’ll notice, there’s also some nuance here to appreciate – a track in the dry might be very different when it’s wet, and so your pressures might have to change depending on the trail’s condition.

Riding style

Though less ‘measurable’, a rider’s style might also be taken into account.

If you’re a bit more precise with your riding, weaving smoothly through obstacles, you might get away with a couple of psi less. However, if you’re someone with more of a point-and-shoot style, you might need to pay a little more attention to puncture protection.

How does a tyre’s construction influence tyre pressure?

Now let’s look at the tyres themselves. After all, even the best mountain bike tyres come in a wide range of widths, diameters, compounds and carcass types – all of which can influence the pressure required.

Tyre width

First up is the obvious one – the width of the tyre. This also relates to the overall shape and volume of the tyre, which itself is dependent on the internal width of the rim of the mountain bike wheel it is fitted to.

A wider tyre will have a larger volume of air inside it. Likewise, a given tyre, on a wider rim, will inflate wider than the same tyre on a narrower rim.

As a general rule, a larger volume tyre can handle lower pressures before it feels imprecise and there’s excessive movement of the tyre on the rim, or before it becomes more susceptible to punctures or burping, whereby the bead of a tubeless tyre pulls away briefly from the rim, expelling air.

Furthermore, running a higher volume tyre at too high a pressure makes it more likely to feel pingy and skittery.

As a rule of thumb, a higher volume tyre can be run at slightly lower pressures than a lower volume tyre setup.

Rim width

Going a bit deeper into this, wider tyres tend to perform better on correspondingly wider rims. A wide tyre on a narrow rim can be more lightbulb-shaped once inflated and prone to rolling side-to-side on a rim, leading to an imprecise feel.

A narrow tyre on a wide rim becomes too square, which changes the feel of the tyre as you lean in a corner, and can lead to the shoulder treads squirming. Cornering lean angles can also be reduced.

So, what do we mean when we talk about ‘narrow’ rims and ‘wide’ rims? And what’s the best match between tyre width and rim width?

• Though there are variations, a narrower 2.2in tyre will be better mounted to a rim with an internal width of roughly 25mm
• A 2.4in tyre mounted to a 25mm to 30mm rim is a good starting point
• At 2.5 to 2.6in wide, we’d be looking for a 28 to 35mm rim
• Finally, 2.8in tyres are likely best suited to a 35mm+ rim

Tyre carcass

The next key variable with the tyre is its carcass and this comes down to the construction. Quite often, tyre brands will supply the same tyre tread and width with a number of carcasses because different carcasses have pros and cons, depending on the intended use.

A thicker carcass will have more puncture protection and may have a more ‘damped’ feel to it. However, it’ll be heavier and as there’s more material in the sidewall of the tyre it could be less supple – this can change how efficiently it rolls.

As a thicker carcass tyre is inherently stronger, in a mountain bike application we might be tempted to run a little less pressure. The tyre should add some puncture protection back into your setup and, as the tyre is more robust overall, it should also retain a bit more stability on the rim.

A thinner tyre, on the other hand, might be run at a touch higher pressure to guard against punctures. With the additional suppleness that comes with a thinner carcass, it’ll still deliver the grip and comfort you want.

As always, the carcass you choose will depend on the balance you want between weight, rolling efficiency, puncture protection and grip.

Tyre compound

As well as the tyre carcass type, you will also want to consider the tyre compound. Tyre compound refers to the blend of materials made up to make the rubber – some will be softer than others.

A soft compound tyre will give more grip for a given pressure, as the rubber itself boosts traction. Here you might consider adding a touch more pressure because this will give the tyre more protection and stability, while retaining that grip you want.

Should a rear tyre be pumped up harder than the front?

Finally, let’s look at the job of the front and rear tyres, and what impact that has on pressure.

The front tyre’s role is very much one of grip – both for braking and cornering.

We know that lower pressures increase grip so, as long as you’re not so low as to induce tyre roll, we want to increase grip as much as we can, to boost control.

At the other end of the bike, the rear wheel generally has to put up with more abuse – it’s the one most likely to suffer a puncture. On top of that, the rear tends to be the draggier of the two wheels due to rider weight distribution between the wheels.

While the relationship between pressure and rolling efficiency is complex, on a mountain bike it’s advisable to run the rear tyre pressure a little higher than the front – it usually makes it roll faster and adds puncture protection.

So, what pressure should you run your tyres?

As you’ll have learnt by now, there’s a lot of detail here, and finding the right pressure for you and your bike is part art, part science.

Everything we’ve covered illustrates why tyre pressure is a continuous process of trial and error, to find the right pressure for your setup, the terrain and conditions.

Now we’re going to delve into a few numbers to help you pick a starting point. However, before we kick things off, we’re going to make two very quick assumptions about your tyre setup.

First off, we’re assuming that your mountain bike is set up tubeless. This means the inner tube has been removed, the rim sealed with a rim strip or it’s a UST (Universal Standard Tubeless) design, and a tubeless valve and tubeless sealant have been added.

A tubeless setup will give you more protection against punctures and help provide a better ride quality because the friction between an inner tube and the inside of the tyre can inhibit the tyre’s ability to deform to the trail.

You can also run tubeless tyres at slightly lower pressures because you remove the risk of pinch flats, where an inner tube gets pinched against the rim and punctures. If you’re running inner tubes, we’d recommend looking into the advantages of tubeless for mountain biking.

Secondly, we’re not talking about tyre inserts in this guide. Tyre inserts are rings of foam that sit inside a tubeless tyre. They offer a range of potential benefits, including increased tyre stability, puncture protection and tyre security. Generally, they’ll allow you to run lower tyre pressures too.

Tyre pressure guide for mountain bikes

As we mentioned at the top, the best tyre pressure can vary from one rider to another and is influenced by a wide range of factors. As a result, our goal here is to give you a starting point from which to experiment with your individual setup, rather than make cast-iron recommendations.

Let’s take BikeRadar’s technical editor Tom Marvin as a case study when looking at tyre pressure for all-round trail riding. He weighs, fully kitted up, around 80kg.

If he’s on his regular trail bike, riding mixed terrain and in mixed conditions, with 2.4in tyres on a 30mm-wide rim, with a medium-strength carcass and regular stickiness compound, his starting point would be:

• 21psi in the front
• 23psi in the rear

This should give a good combination of grip, control, tyre stability, rolling resistance and puncture resistance.

If he was to pop a 2.6in tyre on the same trail bike, he’d look at dropping to:

• 19psi in the front
• 21psi in the rear

Alternatively, a 2.2in tyre on a slightly narrower rim (approx. 25mm) would equate to:

• 24psi in the front
• 26psi in the rear

As we’ve already covered, terrain and conditions have an impact, and on rocky terrain Tom might add a couple of psi, but if it was wet and muddy, he’d drop down a couple of psi – even as low as 18 to 19psi in the front tyre, if it was nice and wide.

There will be riders who want to ride at higher pressures, for other reasons. For example, if you regularly burp tyres or have a particularly aggressive cornering style, then higher pressures will keep the tyre securely locked into the rim

If you find burping tyres to be a problem on your trails with your riding style, then you might even look towards pressures in the high-twenties.

From our examples, hopefully you can start to work out what’s right for you. It’s worth noting that the differences in pressures look relatively small – a couple of psi here or there. However, we’ve found that the bigger the tyre volume, the more noticeable small changes are.

We’d recommend using a digital pressure gauge to adjust your tyre pressure. It’s a really handy tool to get accurate readings and also allows you to fine-tune pressure out on the trail if you’re really trying to get things dialled in. We’ve got a round-up of the best tyre pressure gauges.

Context is everything, so if you’re going to start experimenting with tyre pressures, we’d strongly recommend getting hold of a digital pressure gauge and using it consistently to get a good impression of how the various factors we’ve spoken about influence one another.

How do you know if you’ve got the right tyre pressure?

Finally, assuming you’re now starting to fine-tune your tyre pressures, how do you know when you’ve landed on the right numbers?

Well, if you’re on steep, slow technical tracks or fast and high-load tracks, and can feel the front tyre roll as you push it, or if you start feeling harsh knocks and dings through the rim when you hit a rock or root, you should add more air in your tyres to give better stability and puncture protection.

On the other hand, you’re likely to be too high in pressure if, when you ride over rocks or roots (and especially if they’re crossing your track at an angle), your tyre feels like it pings or slides off in an uncontrolled manner.

Equally, if you’re struggling to hold a line when the trail is off-camber, perhaps you need a little less pressure in there.

Remember, it’s a real balancing act, so get out there and start experimenting.

The post Mountain bike tyre pressure explained | Everything you need to know appeared first on Ebikes Online.

There’s no point spending big on a bike then storing it somewhere where it’s vulnerable.

For those of us without the space to store our pride and joy inside the house, garages and sheds are the next best thing, but they can still be vulnerable to break-ins.

If you want to keep thieves at bay, we’ve got some handy tips to make your bike shed storage more secure.

The first rule of shed club…

The first rule of bike storage is simple: don’t let people know you have a bike. A garage or bike shed is never going to be up there with Fort Knox in the security stakes, but it doesn’t need to be if you take the right approach.

If the local ne’er-do-wells don’t know you have a valuable bike in your shed, they are unlikely to put much effort into breaking in, especially if you fit enough basic security measures to convince them to move on to an easier target. It’s easier said than done, but there are some simple things to avoid.

Do you use Strava? It’s crucial that you either don’t start recording your ride until you’re a few miles away from your house, keep your profile private, or set up a ‘privacy zone’. The last thing you want is to provide thieves with a direct map to your front door.

It’s also tempting to put up pictures of your shiny new bike on social media. While it’s great you are proud of your bike, be cautious. Think about whether your profile gives away enough clues to work out where you live, as well as showing exactly how lovely your new bike is and where it may be stored.

Location, location, location

Where you choose to store your bike will depend on a number of factors, including the value of the bike or bikes, your budget and the amount of available space, but the key criterion should be the location.

If you live in a dodgy area, even bricks and mortar may not deter the criminals. On the other side of town, a wooden shed with a few extra security measures may be enough.

There are five main types of storage to consider:

1. Inside your house – This will depend on the amount of space you have and the tolerance levels of your partner/spouse/flatmates. Overall, security is high, especially if you can lock your bike to an immovable object.
2. Garage – Perfect. You can store your bike and work on it, without worrying about getting oil stains on the carpet. The drawback? Not everyone has one or has the space/money for one. The door is generally the weak point, but you can improve security by fitting a Garage Door Defender. Internally, you can beef up security by using a ground or wall anchor (see below) and a decent motorcycle chain.
3. Brick/breeze-block shed – The next best option, but if you haven’t already got one they’re not cheap and may need planning permission. See below for some tips on making it more secure.
4. Flat-pack shed – They’re relatively cheap, easy to put up and will hide your bike(s) from view, but they’re far from secure. For the purposes of this article, we’ll focus on this type of storage because it’s a common choice and there are some simple precautions you can take to make your shed much less attractive to thieves.
5. Standalone bike shelter – If you’re short of space and need somewhere dry to store your bike, these are an option. In many cases they are no more secure than a shed (or considerably less so) and offer no room to work on your bike, but there are much burlier options out there, including metal bike sheds from the likes of Asgard. See below for more tips on making a standalone bike shelter more secure.

Are your bikes insured?

Insuring your bikes will provide peace of mind should the worst happen. You should always pay attention to the small print when taking out an insurance policy but, in this instance, if you’re not storing your bikes inside then it’s particularly important to ensure any policy covers a wooden shed or wherever you choose to keep your bikes.

Only some policies cover bike storage in lockable wooden sheds and almost all require bikes to be secured to an immovable object.

If you’re looking for a quick comparison of the best bicycle insurance on the market, check out our insurance comparison tool, developed in conjunction with QuoteZone, which will provide quotes for cycling-specific coverage from a wide range of leading providers.

5 top tips for bike shed security

Whether you’ve decided on the wooden shed option, or just want some ideas on making other forms of storage more secure, here are some handy tips:

1. Be realistic

A shed is never going to stand up to a serious attack by thieves. Offenders have been known to pry open a whole side panel or roof to get inside.

The trick is to site it in an area where it is difficult for thieves to operate, avoid drawing attention to it, and install as many security measures as possible to protect your precious bike(s).

The harder you can make a thief work, and the longer it takes them to crack your defences, the more likely they are to pass up the opportunity, or give up and move on to an easier target.

2. Choose your shed location carefully

The ideal site for your shed is somewhere difficult for thieves to reach, yet not so tucked away that criminals can operate without fear of being seen.

In this case, the shed below has been built in a backyard/driveway accessed by a private road. The shed can’t be seen from the main road and because the access road is only used by a handful of households, any strangers in the area will immediately arouse suspicions.

The neighbours are friendly and several are around during the day. The shed can be seen from a number of surrounding houses and is within range of a security light fitted with a movement sensor. When a car is parked in the driveway next to the shed, the door can’t be opened, providing extra security.

3. Take care when choosing the type of shed

There are three main types of shed: wood (cheap and blends in well but prone to rotting and less secure), metal (strong, durable and fire retardant but prone to rust, and walls are very thin on cheap models) and plastic (low maintenance but prone to condensation). Generally, the more you pay, the thicker the walls will be and the more secure the shed will be.

4. Think about the design of the structure

If the shed is going to be used purely for storage, and not as a workshop, consider getting one without windows because these are an obvious weak point. The door should be clearly visible, either from your house or neighbouring properties. Double doors will enable you to get bikes in and out more easily.

5. Work out the shed’s weaknesses

In this case, the door hinges are secured by small screws, the lock provided with the shed is extremely basic and the windows mean the contents are on display. Inside there is nothing to lock your prized possession(s) to.

Step-by-step guide to improving bike shed security

In the first half of our guide, we showed you how to improve the basic security of your shed. In part two we’ll explain how to really beef-up your shed’s security.

1. Toughen up the hinges

In this case, the hinges are attached to the soft timber door using seven short screws. If a thief shoulder barges/kicks the door with enough force, these could just rip out of the wood.

Failing that, it wouldn’t take a determined thief long to simply unscrew them all.

To make life harder for the crims, take out the screws, widen the holes using a drill and replace the screws with nuts and bolts.

Then you need to make sure thieves can’t simply unscrew the bolts. In this case, we’ve added a drop of superglue where the shaft of each bolt meets the nut.

Other options include using Allen key bolts and hammering ball bearings into the end so they can’t be unscrewed, or using one-way security screws.

2. Add hasps and padlocks

The basic locks that come with most sheds are next to useless, so fit at least one hasp with a decent padlock.

There is always a trade-off between increasing security and making it obvious you’ve got something to hide. Fit several hasps with high-end padlocks and you risk attracting unwanted attention, but rely on the in-built lock and you may regret it.

Here we’ve used a Powerlok from Squire, which has an 11mm shackle made of hardened boron alloy steel and a five-pin tumbler lock. It comes with a 10-year guarantee. Consider using different locks from different manufacturers to make a thief’s job that little bit harder.

Again, using bolts to secure the hasps instead of screws will make them harder to break.

3. Fit an alarm

At the end of the day, a determined burglar is always going to be able to break into your shed. The next step is to make sure they don’t hang around if they do breach the external security. An alarm is the obvious answer.

They’re available from most DIY/hardware stores or online.

This particular model combines a movement sensor with a door trigger and can be armed and disarmed using a key-fob remote control. The sensor is angled to cover the windows, so if anyone breaks the glass the alarm should sound.

Home security devices have improved significantly in recent years, so you may also consider fitting an alarm or camera that can be monitored via a smartphone.

4. Obscure the view through the windows

If a thief can see you have an expensive bike, they’re more likely to go through the effort of breaking into your shed rather than moving onto an easier target.

Windows are an obvious weak point. If your shed is purely for storage, try to find one without any windows. If you’ll be using it as a workshop, a bit of natural light may be worth the slight loss of security.

There are various ways to make the glass opaque and stop would-be thieves from peering in.

In this case, we’ve gone for a can of spray-on glass frosting from a DIY store. The advantage of this method is that it can be washed off with warm water if needed.

Other options include stick-on film sheets (difficult to apply without air bubbles but have the added advantage of preventing the glass from shattering if broken) and replacing the original windows with opaque glass.

Once applied, light can still flood in but it’s impossible to make out what is stored inside. Another option is to board up windows, but that, of course, will prevent natural light from getting in, even if it does improve security.

5. Consider securing the shed to the ground

In this case, the shed pictured is large (5ft x 12ft) and heavy – it took six people to lift the roof into place – so it is unlikely thieves will be able to simply lift up one side to gain access.

However, if you feel there is a risk of this happening to you, consider fixing the shed to the ground using L-brackets (also known as corner braces or angle brackets), screws and Rawl plugs.

Improving your shed’s internal security measures

The first and best line of defence is to stop a thief getting into your garage or shed in the first place, but if the worst should happen, having your bikes securely locked down may stop them being rolled out into the night and off to the dodgy second-hand market, or sold for parts.

One thing that will make the thieves job easier is having tools to hand. There’s no point in having secure locks if you’ve got crowbars, saws and screwdrivers within reach.

Make sure any tools you do have are either locked securely away in the shed or stored in a different location. Apart from anything else, you don’t want them going missing as well.

While these measures will help prevent a thief from making off with your frame, the parts on your bike are another story. Working undisturbed, some thieves will strip down a locked bike, removing things such as dropper seatposts, handlebars and even brakes and gears.

Data tagging these valuable individual parts can help to dissuade thieves from making an attempt on parts if they see the label, or help recover stolen parts.

Otherwise, here are three tips to improve your shed’s internal security.

1. Choose how to store your bike

2. Choose your lock

3. Lock it to something secure and immoveable

The post Improve your bike shed security whatever your budget appeared first on Ebikes Online.

It’s only a few years since disc brakes were anathema to many road riders. Pro riders were especially vociferous in expressing their disapproval – or, at worst, hatred – of the new braking technology.

Step forward to 2021 and all but one of the 19 teams (Ineos Grenadiers) look likely to be riding WorldTour bikes kitted out with discs.

That’s in part due to bike makers switching their output almost exclusively to disc brakes. But even teams, such as UAE Team Emirates, who have the option and were riding rim brake bikes last year have this year made the switch to disc brakes.

That switch away from rim brakes isn’t confined to premium models and has trickled down to budget road bikes too. They may have cable disc brakes rather than hydraulic systems, but you’ll find plenty of road bikes under £1,000 kitted out with rotors.

So what exactly are road disc brakes, and why all the fuss? Are they really any different from other recent advancements in bike technology? And which braking system comes out on top when comparing disc brakes and rim brakes?

• Disc brakes are now the default on road bikes – and no one cares

What are road bike disc brakes, anyway?

The most fundamental difference between traditional rim brakes and disc brakes is where the braking forces are applied.

As the name suggests – and just as it’s been done for decades – rim brakes clamp directly on to the sides of the wheel rim itself. In this way, the rim serves as a main structural component of the wheel, the mounting base for the tyre and the braking surface all in one.

In contrast, disc brakes move all braking duties to a separate rotor that is much smaller in diameter and mounted directly to the hub – much like everyday automobiles or motorcycles, and pretty much all other wheeled vehicles.

The brake caliper is still mounted to the frame and fork but is situated much closer to each wheel axle.

Another key difference is how each type of brake is usually operated. With a few rare exceptions, rim brakes are ‘cable-actuated’, meaning the levers are connected to the caliper with braided steel cables (bowden cables, to use the engineering term) that slide through some sort of housing.

You pull the lever, which then pulls on the cable, which then forces the caliper to clamp down on the rim.

Disc brakes are more often than not of the fully hydraulic variety, where the cable and housing are replaced by a non-compressible fluid and a hose in a fully sealed system.

When you pull the lever on a hydraulic brake, it pushes a plunger in a ‘master cylinder’, which then pushes that fluid through a hose to the caliper at the other end. That hydraulic pressure is what pushes the caliper pistons out and clamps the disc brake pads onto the rotor.

Like a rim brake, a cable-operated disc brake has a wire running to the brake mechanism, but in this case the cable pulls one or two of the pads in the caliper together to squeeze against the rotor.

Cable-operated disc brakes are cheaper and slightly less efficient than hydraulic disc brakes due to the friction and stretch in the cables, and are normally found on lower priced bikes.

Who makes road disc brakes?

SRAM was first to market with a disc-specific road bike groupset, although there were mechanical disc brake options from Avid and others available before its 2012 Red Hydro R came along.

That was followed in 2013 by Shimano and finally in 2016 by Campagnolo, so you can now find options from all the major road groupset manufacturers.

Initially disc brake options were limited, but all three brands have now trickled hydraulic disc brakes as an alternative to rim brakes into many of their groupsets. They’re also a feature of groupsets designed for gravel bikes, including Shimano GRX and Campagnolo Ekar, and single chainring drivetrains.

This means you can find disc brakes at a wide range of price points, including the top-tier Dura-Ace, Red and Super Record groupsets for Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo respectively.

The technology is also now available right down to cheaper options: Apex 1 for SRAM, Tiagra for Shimano and Chorus for Campagnolo. Shimano also offers a mechanical disc brake option for Sora.

Alongside hydraulic disc brakes from the big three, you can often find mechanical disc brakes on lower priced bikes: TRP (who also make the Hy/Rd mechanical/hydraulic hybrid caliper), Hayes and SRAM’s Avid brand are common options.

Disc brakes vs rim brakes: why disc brakes are better than rim brakes

Disc brakes offer several key advantages over rim brakes.

First, they generate much more stopping power, meaning there’s less force required at the lever to generate the same amount of deceleration as on a rim brake.

This can be a big help on long and steep descents where ‘arm pump’ can eventually set in, or for heavier riders who have struggled to find enough power from traditional brakes (the same issue applies to heavier bikes, such as touring bikes and tandems).

An added bonus is that braking power can be boosted (or tempered, depending on your preferences) by changing rotor sizes. A bigger rotor will increase the mechanical leverage and heat dissipation while a smaller one will save weight for riders who just don’t need the extra braking force.

Granted, stopping power on any wheeled vehicle is inherently limited by traction. And as many of you will know (possibly through painful experience), it’s already quite easy to lock up a wheel on a bike with rim brakes – which brings us to advantage number two: control.

Disc brakes offer better modulation than rim brakes, meaning it’s easier for the rider to precisely meter out how much clamping power is generated. Peak stopping power occurs just before the point of lock-up, and disc-equipped bikes are better equipped to flirt with that edge without crossing over. 

Disc brake power also tends to be more linear and predictable than on rim brakes, and it’s far more consistent in varying weather conditions, especially when compared with using rim brakes on carbon rims – a combination that yields notoriously poor performance in the wet, yet is also prone to overheating when dry.

Scott Sports

Another advantage of hydraulic disc brakes exploited by bike makers is that you’ll get the same braking efficiency regardless of how much the brake hose twists and turns.

That’s allowed bike brands to develop complex internal routing and increase front-end integration, with hidden cable and hose runs from brake levers to point of action, and associated aerodynamic improvements.

Disc brake wheel rims can also be made lighter than rim brake wheels. In a rim brake design, the need to handle the compressive force of the brake pads, the expansive force of the tyre and the heat generated by braking require greater strength and heat dissipation than a disc brake rim, where it’s just the tyre pressure that needs to be handled. It’s easier to optimise the rim’s aerodynamics when designing for disc brakes too.

Likewise, disc brake frames can be built differently to rim brake frames. While there’s a need to beef up the left fork leg and left-side chainstay, there’s less force acting on other parts of the frame, which can be thinned out.

Bike makers have also learned how to make disc brake bikes as aerodynamic or more so than rim brake bikes.

Disc brakes vs rim brakes: why rim brakes are better than disc brakes

The biggest advantage of rim brakes is weight. Although disc and rim brake components themselves aren’t very different weight-wise, once you add the rotor, the system weight of a disc brake setup is typically a few hundred grams greater.

However, as we’ve covered in the previous section, wheels and frames for the latest generation of bikes can compensate for this.

The simplicity of cable-actuated rim brakes has plenty of upsides, though. Parts are generally cheap and widely available, there’s a very high degree of compatibility between multiple brands and vintages.

Rim brake systems are easy to repair when needed – even on the side of the road, or in the middle of nowhere with limited availability of spare parts. Rim brakes are also easy to adjust, unlike some disc brake systems, where disc brake rub and squealing can be persistent issues.

On top of that, it’s worth pointing out that the latest rim brake systems are better than ever, particularly on mid to high-end groupsets, and provide plenty of stopping power on tap.

There was an aesthetic argument that rim brake bikes are in some way prettier than disc brake ones, which was widely held when disc brake road bikes started to appear.

We’d say that argument is now less relevant. The clean lines that disc brakes and internal routing allow, particularly around the front end of the bike, more than compensate for the rotor.

How disc brakes change road bikes

Cast aside the various conspiracy theories surrounding why the bike industry seems so hot on disc brakes. Of course, companies would love to sell more bikes and gear than they do now – that goes without saying.

However, history has repeatedly demonstrated that major changes in bike technology have only shifted the types of bikes and gear that people buy, not the grand total.

The fact of the matter is that the bike industry sees the road disc movement as a way to advance bike technology forward in a meaningful way in one big step. Bikes equipped with brakes that work better are safer, full stop (pun intended).

Without having to worry about accommodating a caliper, disc-equipped road bikes can more easily fit higher-volume tyres and wider rims for improved traction and performance on a more diverse mix of terrain.

That’s opened up the chance for road riders to fit much wider tyres, with 28mm or more now being the norm on many road bikes, in place of the 23mm tyres seen just a few years ago. It’s a change that can make for a much more comfortable, grippier ride, without a significant downside in speed or aerodynamics.

Since the seatstays no longer have to be reinforced to accommodate a rim brake, they can be made more flexible too, also augmenting comfort.

These changes are also driving the boom in gravel bikes and more capable endurance bikes. 

The move to disc brakes has come with a concurrent transition to thru-axles. Although it’s still faster to install and remove a wheel on a disc brake bike with quick-release skewers, there’s still too much variability in how the wheels fit into the frame and fork.

This can lead to issues ranging from annoying (pads rubbing on rotors) to terrifying (unanticipated wheel ejections under hard braking).

Thru-axles instead use closed dropouts that more consistently place the wheel in the same spot relative to the brake caliper, and are safer to use in general with less chance of user error.

They also provide a more rigid connection between the wheel and frame than quick-release hubs, so that a frame can be lighter without losing stiffness.

Road disc brake compatibility and standards

The switch to disc brakes means that bike makers have designed frames that are in general incompatible with rim brakes; you can’t fit disc brakes to a rim brake frame and you can’t swap from discs back to rim brakes, except in a few cases, such as the Wilier Cento10 NDR, which has been designed to allow you to fit either type of brake.

Disc brakes not only require dedicated fittings on the frame and fork for the caliper but, ideally, localised reinforcements to handle the added stresses applied.

Meanwhile, the wheels require hubs with either a six-bolt or Centerlock-splined interface to attach a rotor. Neither of these can simply be added after the fact.

There’s virtually no mixing and matching allowed between disc brake brands either, at least as far as hydraulic options are concerned. There’s a fair bit of flexibility for combining different makes and models of rim brakes, especially when you factor in smaller aftermarket brands, whereas disc brakes are much more limiting.

SRAM hydraulic disc brake calipers can only be paired with SRAM levers, for example, and the same goes for Shimano and Campagnolo.

Cable-actuated disc brakes from TRP, Paul Components, SRAM/Avid, Hayes and others offer more flexibility, but even then differing cable pull ratios between the various makes, models and even years of levers have to be considered for optimal functionality.

Implications for long-term maintenance and serviceability

Hydraulic mountain bike disc brakes have long been widely accepted in the off-road market, so there’s plenty of history to go on in terms of long-term maintenance and serviceability, and it’s a mixed bag.

On the one hand, hydraulic disc brakes are fully sealed from the elements and require little-to-no everyday maintenance – most of the time (cable-actuated disc brake maintenance is more in line with conventional rim brakes). There’s also no housing for grit to get into and no cables to fray.

As an added bonus, they even self-adjust for pad wear so the lever pull stays consistent over time. Aside from occasionally bleeding the system with fresh fluid – most companies recommend doing this about once a year – there’s not much to it.

Bleeding hydraulic systems does require special tools, with a full home kit running about £45 / $55 (plus a few extra for fluid annually). Alternatively, having a shop do it will cost about £40 / $60 each year, give or take.

Disc brake pads also tend to be slightly more expensive (about £50 / $80 vs £40 / $60 per full set of good ones), but the real-world differences are quite minor when you factor longevity into the equation. Keep in mind, however, that regularly riding in wet, gritty conditions can skew those figures dramatically.

Conventional rim brake cable and housing is far from cheap though, especially if you prefer to use higher-grade stuff (as you should…), so while rim brakes hold an advantage here, the differences aren’t as dramatic as they might seem.

If something actually breaks, however, rim brakes hold a big edge since it’s much easier to diagnose – and repair – a problem.

For most users, hydraulic disc brakes will be akin to electronic equipment: while you can often figure out an issue on your own, most cyclists won’t have the equipment or knowledge to do so.

If you’re the type to run things into the ground though, keep in mind that there are definite upsides to not subjecting your rims to regular wear.

Whereas it’s very expensive to replace a rim that’s been worn down from long-term braking, disc brakes only require a new rotor. Speaking of which, those rotors are also less likely to go out of true than a rim.

Will disc brakes replace rim brakes completely? Perhaps not. At the very least, rim brakes will likely live on with smaller brands and niche applications, but with mainstream brands, the tide has been turning towards discs for some time now. 

The post Road bike disc brakes: everything you need to know appeared first on Ebikes Online.

A bike works more smoothly, lasts longer and looks better when it’s clean. That will make riding it more enjoyable and save you money long term.

While it may be tempting to just pop it in the shed until your next ride, even a few minutes spent at regular intervals will improve your riding experience and the longevity of your bike.

Regardless of what shape your bars are or how many suspension parts your bike has, any build-up of dirt will wear through moving parts if left to do so. As important as it is to clean your bike after a filthy wet ride, it remains key after dry, dusty ones too.

Here’s how to clean your road or mountain bike in seven simple steps.

Bike wash essentials

• Water source: a bucket or garden hose. A jet wash/pressure washer can be used, and while the jury is out on whether it does force dirt past seals and reduce bearing or bushing life, it’s definitely best not to point it directly at bearing or suspension seals
• Workstand (optional, but undoubtedly helpful)
• Brushes. Several brands offer a ‘bike wash brush kit’ with brushes for the various applications, but if you don’t have those, a couple of toothbrushes and an old dustpan brush will do
• Chain cleaning device or a specific stiff-bristled toothbrush if you don’t have one
• Degreaser
• Bike wash fluid (preferably environmentally sound)
• Chain lube
• Paper towel or rag
• Chamois leather

What you need to get started

How to clean a bike in 7 simple steps

Step 1: Clean the drivetrain

If you have a chain cleaning device, use it to clean the chain. If not, you’ll simply have to apply the degreaser and use a brush. You’ll need the brush for the cassette and derailleur(s) in any case.

If you want to know everything there is to know about cleaning a bike chain (and likely more), check out our ultra in-depth standalone guide.

Make sure you have a specific brush for your drivetrain, and don’t use it on any other part of the bike, particularly the brakes – contaminating your braking surface with chain filth will ruin performance and may force you to replace your brake pads.

You may need to use something to dislodge stubborn grime from places such as jockey wheels, and some brushes have a hooked handle for exactly this. A flat-headed screwdriver and an awl can help here.

Step 2: Wipe the discs or braking surface down

At this point, it’s wise to wipe your discs or rim brake surface down.

However careful you are cleaning the chain, there’s always a chance muck can find its way onto your rotors. It can also cause issues on rim brakes.

Spray some degreaser into a clean paper towel and wipe around the rotors.

Step 3: Rinse and apply detergent

Use your hose, or bucket and sponge, to wet the bike and remove the majority of the mud and grime that has built up.

If you’re using a jet wash, stand well back or turn the intensity down.

Spray detergent along the main tubes and the areas most affected by dirt.

More on bike cleaning & maintenance

• How to clean your bike chain
• Don’t make these common bike maintenance mistakes
• Make sure your bike is safe to ride with the M check
• How to jet wash a bike

Step 4: Brush clean

After a few cleans, you’ll develop your own routine – front to back or top to bottom. Pay attention to moving parts and use a smaller brush to get into narrower spaces.

The brushes combined with the detergent will loosen most of the remaining dirt from the bike. Remember the undersides and awkward bits that also need attention. An old rag is very useful for threading behind tight areas such as the crankset and front derailleur.

Step 5: Rinse

Use fresh water to rinse off the bike. Spin each wheel to rinse all the detergent out of the tread. Check all the dirt has been lifted off and revisit with the brush if any remains, then rinse again.

Step 6: Dry

If you have a workstand, now is a good time to move the bike into it. Use an old dishcloth or chamois leather if you have one to dry the bike.

Then, fastidiously avoiding braking surfaces, give it a polish with PTFE or silicone spray. Rub it in with a paper towel or soft cloth. Not only will this make your bike shine, it’ll also reduce the amount of muck that will stick to it on the next outing.

Step 7: Lube

Apply lube to the chain while turning the pedals. Pay attention to manufacturer recommendations because it’s very easy to overdo it with lube.

If the bike is not in a workstand, you’ll need to turn the pedals backwards. Use a moisture dispersant lube on your derailleur pivots, taking extreme care to avoid your braking surfaces.

The post How to clean your bike in 7 simple steps appeared first on Ebikes Online.