It’s all too easy for a simple workshop job to escalate into a time-consuming odyssey.

We’ve all been there. From rounding a bolt or taking on a job that’s deceptively hard to simply misplacing a tool, bike maintenance can quickly become frustrating.

To ease your maintenance woes, we’ve put together a list of 15 common home maintenance mistakes so you can avoid any unneeded trips to the bike shop.

1. Reaching for the limit screws first when adjusting gears

There are many variables to check when adjusting or indexing gears. While it might be tempting to reach for the limit screws, this isn’t the best place to start.

The limit screws prevent the rear derailleur from shifting the chain into the spokes or into the driveside chainstay. Provided they have been set up correctly and the derailleur hanger is not bent, in theory they will not need adjusting.

If your gears aren’t shifting optimally, checking the cable tension should be your first port of call. It’s also worth checking the condition of the cables for any fraying, or kinks or tears to the outers.

2. Not looking after your chain properly

The chain is one of the most critical components on your bike, so it’s worth looking after.

If you get into the habit of cleaning your chain regularly, your drivetrain will run smoothly and you’ll decrease the rate of chain wear.

It’s best to use a specific chain degreaser and chain lubricant for optimal results when looking after your chain.

3. Incorrect chain length or orientation

Sticking with chains, it’s important to install them correctly.

If the chain has been cut too short, you will struggle to shift into the largest cassette cog. The chain will likely snap and it can even rip the rear derailleur off as the chain puts too much strain on it.

If the chain is too long, it will sag or droop when using the smaller cassette cogs. This will make shifting less precise and the chain will contact the driveside chainstay.

When replacing a bicycle chain, it’s worth making sure the chain is installed in the correct orientation.

Some chains are designed to only be installed in one direction and it’s worth paying particular attention to the quick link, too. Again, the wrong orientation can lead to poor shifting and an increased risk of the chain snapping.

4. Riding with a poorly adjusted headset

If your bike’s headset is too lose, it can lead to a variety of problems.

If you can feel play or knocking when you apply the front brake and rock the fork back and forth, your headset is loose.

At best, this translates to poor steering, but at worst the knocking headset can cause severe damage to your fork steerer tube, particularly if it is carbon.

Carbon fibre cannot withstand abrasion and, over time, a loose headset bearing can start to wear away at the material, potentially causing catastrophic failure.

5. Quick-release skewers loose and in the wrong orientation

It’s common for the quick-release skewers to be installed too loose, too tight or in the wrong orientation.

A quick-release skewer shouldn’t require a Herculean effort to close – it should require enough tension that the lever leaves a slight imprint in the palm of your hand.

Quick-release skewers should also be oriented correctly.

The skewer handle should always be on the non-driveside of the bike (the only exception being a handful of disc brake frames with levered thru-axles that install from the driveside).

The handle should be positioned slightly past the fork blade in the direction of the drivetrain. On the rear, it should bisect the non-driveside chainstay and seatstay.

If the skewer is pointing forward or downward on the front, or towards the floor or back of the bike on the rear, you run the risk of it opening accidentally if you hit an obstacle or if another rider’s wheel gets caught in the skewer.

And never position the skewer against the fork or frame because it will make opening it again in the future a very difficult task.

6. Under- or over-inflating tyres

Riding with under- or over-inflated tyres is another common error. Too high and you’ll feel every vibration on the road or trail; too low and you’ll run the risk of punctures, compromised handling and a sluggish ride.

If you’re unsure on what pressure to inflate your tyres to, there will be a suggested range printed on the sidewall.

It’s a good idea to invest in one of the best bike pumps, because they will feature a gauge for precise inflation. It’s worth checking the tyre pressure before every ride. If you’re not sure what tyre pressure you should run, you could take a look at a tyre pressure calculator (we like Silca’s).

7. Under- or over-tightening bolts

Modern bicycles are subject to tight tolerances and the bolts that secure the various components need to be fastened correctly.

If a bolt is too loose or too tight, you run the risk of failure.

It is best to use a torque wrench whenever you adjust a bolt, particularly if the component or the surface it is clamping onto is carbon fibre. Carbon fibre, in particular, doesn’t like to be over-clamped and will fracture if over-tightened.

Many manufacturers list a recommended torque next to the bolt – do not exceed this.

It’s also worth ensuring any and all fasteners are sufficiently prepared with grease, threadlock or anti-seize, as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

8. Removing pedals with the outer chainring exposed

When you fit, remove or change bike pedals, it’s a good idea to have the chain in the biggest chainring.

Having the chain cover the sharp teeth of the chainring can help avoid any painful, knuckle-skinning experiences.

9. Not greasing pedal threads or over-tightening them

Sticking with pedals, make sure you apply some anti-seize to the pedal threads prior to installation.

If you don’t grease them, you’ll likely find it impossible to remove them in the future because they can seize in place.

It’s also critical to not over-tighten pedals, because the act of pedalling effectively tightens them.

10. Neglecting your seatpost

A seized seatpost can spell all manner of trouble. It’s an easy component to forget about, given you rarely need to adjust it once you’ve correctly set your saddle height.

In the worst-case scenario, you’ll need to enlist the specialist services of a seatpost removal company (yes, these actually exist).

It’s best to remove the seatpost twice a year and give it a clean. If the seatpost and frame are metal, make sure you apply some anti-seize during installation. If any of the components are carbon fibre, you’ll need to use carbon fibre grip instead.

11. Resting a bike on its driveside

If the bike is leaned on the driveside, there’s an increased likelihood of the derailleur hanger bending.

The derailleur hanger is a sacrificial part in between the frame’s dropout and rear derailleur and is designed to bend or break to save your frame.

If a derailleur hanger is bent, it can lead to  poor and inaccurate shifting, with the chain potentially derailing into the spokes or driveside chainstay.

12. Not replacing bar tape

Regularly replacing your handlebar tape may not seem like an important maintenance job, but if you ride frequently or you’re into indoor cycling, it’s wise to do this once or twice a year.

If your handlebar is metal, the salt in your sweat can lead to oxidisation. In extreme cases, it’s not unheard of to witness handlebars failing due to corrosion.

By removing your old bar tape, you can periodically inspect your handlebar, and you’ll also avoid the thoroughly unpleasant task of unravelling crusty old tape.

13. Riding without bar end plugs

Whether you have a drop handlebar or a flat mountain bike handlebar, we really can’t recommend riding with bar end plugs enough. These are a safety feature and not simply cosmetic.

If you were to fall off when cycling, an unplugged handlebar end will effectively act as a cookie cutter into your sternum, or worse.

If your bar end plug falls out regularly, you could try applying some double-sided tape on its inside. Alternatively, you can upgrade to one that clamps in place with an expanding bung.

14. Not servicing suspension

Suspension requires regular servicing to perform in tip-top condition.

The components that make up the fork or shock are always moving when you ride, and the oils and seals should be kept fresh and clean.

Servicing suspension stops any grit and grime that’s made its way into your shock or fork from causing any damage.

Suspension manufacturers include recommended specific service intervals, so it’s well worth keeping a note of when you should next give your suspension some TLC.

15. Using poor-quality tools

The age-old adage “Buy cheap, buy twice” couldn’t be more true in the world of bicycle tools.

A worn or poor-quality tool could lead to rounding a bolt, marring an interface, even breaking a component or the tool itself.

Higher-quality tools will be manufactured to tighter tolerances, ensuring a snug and precise fit for the relevant job at hand.

What other maintenance mistakes have you made? Let us know your maintenance mishaps in the comments.

The post 15 common home maintenance mistakes (and how to avoid them) appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Most of us don’t think about the cables that connect our bike’s controls to their derailleurs and brakes until they stop working well or break. However, they play a critical role in ensuring your bike runs, stops and shifts smoothly.

In this guide, we’ll cover: how brake and gear cables work; what the differences between the two are; how road and mountain bike cables differ; and why investing in high-quality cables is worth it.

Of course, if you’ve got hydraulic disc brakes and electronic shifting, you can be smug and move on, but for the majority of bike riders, wire cables are part-and-parcel of the riding experience.

How do bike brake and gear cables work?

Brake and gear cables are a form of Bowden cable.

They comprise an inner cable made of twisted steel wire that runs through an outer sleeve from your bike’s control levers on the bar to the brakes or derailleurs.

There may be parts of the inner cables that are unprotected by the outers, particularly for gear cables, with the outers finishing in ‘stops’ attached to the frame. Many cables now also route through outers that run their full length internally through the frame.

The inner cable is anchored at both ends. Pull on the bike’s brake levers or push the gear shifters and the inner cable is pulled through the outer cable, which in turn operates the brake caliper or derailleur.

There’s a spring in the operated device – whether that’s a brake caliper or derailleur – that moves it back when the cable tension is released.

Brake cables vs. gear cables – what’s the difference?

The jobs done by brake cables and gear cables are different, so they’re built differently.

Your brake needs to work without risk of failure and to transmit significant force to the brake caliper, so the inner cable is built thicker than a gear cable.

You can afford to have a bit of compression in the outer without it affecting braking performance significantly but it’s very important that it doesn’t split lengthways, so the metal wire in it is usually helically wound.

Modern bike gears are usually indexed, where one click of the shifter moves the rear derailleur one sprocket or shifts the front derailleur between chainrings. There’s less force applied, so the cables can be thinner, but the movements of the cable need to be precise.

To accomplish this, gear cable outers are constructed differently from brake cables, with a bundle of individual wires wound over a long length to make the cable outer more or less compressionless.

There’s also usually a plastic inner lining to help reduce friction between the inner and outer cables.

You can’t mix and match gear cables and brake cables – you need the right set of inners and outers for each job.

Using gear cables for brake cables is exceptionally dangerous and you should never do it. You run the risk of them snapping at the worst possible moment, with potentially very serious consequences.

Road vs. mountain bike gear and brake cables

Differences go beyond cable thickness too.

At the derailleur or brake end, both brake and gear cables have ‘raw’ ends that are fixed by a clamp.

At the lever end, though, they have differently shaped nipples – the lumps of permanently affixed metal that hold them in the levers – again making them non-interchangeable.

The shape of these nipples is different between mountain bike (cylindrical) and road bike (pear-shaped) brake cables.

There are also slight differences between the standards used by Shimano and Campagnolo for both gear and brake cables for road bikes.

Why high-quality bike cables matter

Both brake and gear cables have to withstand a lot of stress.

On road bikes, under-bar tape cabling means they have to move through tight turns. There are also bends at the derailleur end of cables on all types of bike. Internal routing only complicates the issue.

Gear cables are wound through particularly tight curves within the shifters too, which means there’s a lot of potential for wear.

Brake cables normally have an easier time of it because their runs are straighter, but there’s much more force travelling through them.

In both cases, you really don’t want your cables to fail.

A snapped derailleur cable will mean a long ride home in a single gear. The effects of a broken brake cable could be much more serious.

It’s a good idea to check your cables regularly for wear or fraying and replace them if you see any damage.

Pay particular attention to gear cables inside the shifter bodies because that’s where they usually break.

Is it worth buying expensive brake and gear cables?

Generally speaking, more expensive bike brake and gear cables will feature polished inners, higher-quality outers and, potentially, better sealing from the elements. This should help ensure your brakes and gears work smoothly and predictably for longer.

Below is a selection of high-end brake and gear cable options from the three big mainstream groupset manufacturers, and some third-party options.

Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 road gear cable set

• £49.99

The Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 road gear cables are stainless steel and run through a stiff outer casing with a polymer lining lubricated with silicone.

Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 road brake cable set

• £45.99

Shimano’s Dura-Ace 9000 road brake cable set has a similar construction. Stainless steel wires are wrapped in a low-friction polymer casing, greased on the inside with silicone.

Campagnolo ER600 Ultrashift/Powershift ULF Ergopower 11-speed cable set

• £37

The Campagnolo ER600 Ultrashift ULF Ergopower cable set is a brake and gear cable replacement kit in one. It also features stainless steel wires coated in a smooth polymer sleeve that is internally lubricated.

SRAM SlickWire Shift Cable

• £37

Like Shimano and Campagnolo’s top-tier offerings, SRAM’s SlickWire Shift Cable is a stainless steel wire with a braided nylon casing. End caps, ferrules and frame protectors are also included. The cables are compatible with road and mountain bikes.

SRAM SlickWire Pro Brake Cable

• £50 / $52

SRAM’s SlickWire Pro Brake Cable is also made from polished stainless steel and threaded inside a slick nylon outer cover, and works with road and mountain bikes.

Jagwire Road Elite Link Shift kit

• £85

Jagwire’s Road Elite Link Shift cables eschew traditional compressionless cable housing made from Kevlar in favour of aluminium links. These surround the lubed liners and polished stainless steel inner wires.

Jagwire Road Elite Link Brake kit

• £61.99

Jagwire’s Road Elite Link Brake kit also has an alloy link housing that holds slick stainless steel wires within lubricated liners.

Cheap bike cables

Less expensive bike cables still tend to have stainless steel inner wires coated in polymer sheaths, but are not always internally lubricated. Some are not compatible with disc brakes.

Shimano Road Gear Cable set

• £23

The entry-level Shimano road shift cable lacks the supposedly low-friction Optislick coating seen on the brand’s more expensive options.

Shimano Road and Mountain Bike Brake Cable Set

• £16.99

Shimano’s basic brake cables are half the price of the Dura-Ace set, but their construction is much the same.

Jagwire Basics Shift Kit

• £9.29

The Jagwire Basics Shift Cable set has slick galvanised wires and best suits five- to seven-speed bikes, according to the brand.

Jagwire Basics Brake Kit

• £12.73

Jagwire’s Basics brake cables don’t come with lubricated liners and are rim-brake only on road and mountain bikes.

Replacing gear cables

When the time does come to replace the cables, it’s worthwhile investing in good-quality ones. They’ll be less prone to corroding and should be smoother-running in the outers.

Speaking of outers, it’s a good idea to replace these semi-regularly too. The continual movement of the inners will cause their internal sleeves to wear over time.

Contamination, which is largely unavoidable, will also degrade performance over time, even when you fit new inner cables.

You can guard against this to some extent by fitting an anti-contamination ferrule at each end of the cable run. This is particularly important for mountain bikes, cyclocross bikes and gravel bikes, which are likely to get mucky.

If you’re only replacing the inner cables, it’s worth lightly lubricating the new inner when you fit it. Higher-quality new cable sets will typically come pre-lubed though.

If you’re replacing the brake and gear cables on your bike – whether that’s just the inners or the complete set – you should use the right tools to get a clean finish. Proper cable cutters are fairly affordable and do a much better job than side snips.

Make sure you fit the correct caps/ferrules to the cut ends of both inner and outer cables to prevent fraying and to keep the drivetrain and brakes working properly.

Cables are a fairly affordable bike part, so when you change yours, splashing out on a high-quality set is genuinely worth the extra expense for the improved performance.

The post Buyer’s guide to bike brake and gear cables | What’s the difference between road and mountain bike cables? appeared first on Ebikes Online.

Gravel is the hottest riding niche right now and there’s never been more choice in components designed for drop-bar bikes that blur the lines between road and mountain.

In our latest tech-focused podcast, Matthew Loveridge and Jack Luke discuss what makes good gravel gearing, and revisit the perennial debate – is 1× always better than 2×?

Shimano GRX offers some great options for gravel riders but it’s 1× offering isn’t as generous as it could be.

Meanwhile, Campagnolo Ekar offers arguably the best ready-made mechanical 1× option, and SRAM’s eTap AXS groupsets offer wide 2× gearing and the option to mix road and mountain bike components for a so-called mullet setup.

For more on speccing your next ride, don’t miss our buyer’s guide to gravel bike setup, and check out our latest gravel bike reviews including Canyon’s excellent Grail 6, the versatile Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon, and the keenly priced but curiously specced Van Rysel EDR CF Carbon Gravel.

Want to hear more of the BikeRadar Podcast? Head to our archive page and browse through the entire back catalogue.

Otherwise, to make sure you don’t miss a future episode, click the buttons below to subscribe via Apple or Spotify.

The post BikeRadar Podcast | What’s the best gearing for gravel? appeared first on Ebikes Online.