Knowing how to check your bicycle chain for wear can prevent you from being stranded on the roadside with a broken chain, keep your drivetrain running efficiently, and, in the long run, save you money.

In this guide, we’ll take a look at what chain wear is, why it matters and how to prevent it from costing you money in the long run.

What pieces make up a chain?

A bicycle chain is made up of lots of individual pieces. These include the pin (also known as the rivet), outer links, inner links, bushing and roller.

On most modern chains, the bushing is integrated with the inner plate and holds in the circular roller.

Each chain link is joined onto the next, alternating between outer plate and inner plate. A whole chain link is commonly thought of as one segment of outer and inner plate together.

A chain has a 0.5in (12.7mm) spacing between pins. This is the chain ‘pitch’ and is an industry standard on multi-speed bikes.

In this article, we’re only referring to standard ‘derailleur’-type multi-speed bicycle chains.

What is chain wear?

Chain wear is commonly referred to as ‘chain stretch’, because the chain’s pitch grows in length as it wears. This is the most important type of chain wear, and the growth comes from the bushings wearing with the chain pins. Over time, the inner diameter of these bushings increases and the pins groove out.

It’s often stated that a chain is worn once it reaches one per cent growth from the original 0.5in (12.7mm) pitch.

Another type of chain wear is ‘slop’. This isn’t as easy to measure, but it is common with riders who don’t put a lot of torque into their drivetrain, or perhaps spin a higher cadence.

Worn-out rollers increase the side-to-side play in the chain. As a result, the shifting is sloppier because the shifting ramps of the cassette or chainring need to work harder to derail the chain onto the desired cog.

It’s important though to bear in mind that chain slop won’t wear out other components.

The rate at which a chain wears depends on a plethora of factors. These include the discipline of riding and the terrain, the model of chain, which gears you ride in and how you change gear. Arguably, the most significant factor is how you maintain your chain.

Why should I care about chain wear?

Chain wear will lead to poor shifting and lost efficiency. Additionally, a severely worn chain is weaker, and there’s nothing fun about a snapped chain.

Perhaps most importantly though, chain wear can cost you a lot of money if left too long.

There are knock-on effects for the rest of your bike, too. A worn chain can wear the cassette and ultimately any chainrings  on your crankset. Cassettes and chainrings are typically more expensive than chains, so costs can escalate quickly if a worn chain is not replaced in time.

A new chain at a 0.5in pitch is designed to sit deep into the cog. As the pitch increases, the chain rolls higher up on the tooth and causes rapidly increased cog wear as the point of contact is reduced. Too much wear, and the chain will start skipping over the top of the cog.

Provided you replace the chain before it passes its wear limit, it’s possible to run multiple chains on your bike without having to replace your cassette or chainrings. For the majority of drivetrains, that is far more economical than having to replace the cassette and chainrings every time you need a new chain. This is especially true when considering the cost of a cassette on some groupsets.

How do I measure a chain for wear?

Chain wear is best measured using a specific chain checker tool, but it’s possible to use an accurate ruler or tape measure.

Using a ruler, a new chain should measure exactly 12 inches across 12 links, from middle of pin to middle of pin. The number most commonly agreed on for a worn chain is one per cent elongation between links. In reality though, you should replace the chain before this point.

So, therefore, anything past 12 1/16in (0.5 per cent) would be the time to replace a chain. Anything past 12 1/8in (one per cent) has been worn to death and so a new cassette is likely needed.

Holding a ruler perfectly straight while lining it up to measure 1/8in is difficult, and chain checker tools provide a far simpler and quicker ‘go or no-go’ result.

Whichever way you choose to measure a chain, be sure to not include the quick link, if you have one installed because they wear slower than conventional links.

Typical chain checker tools are the easiest way to check a chain for wear. The tool drops into your chain, giving you a quick ‘go’ or ‘no-go’ gauge result.

Different tools are intended to show you different levels of chain wear, showing if the chain has stretched by 0.5 per cent, for instance. Many will be double-sided, giving you two readings.

If a chain is worn, the two ends of the tool will fall into the chain links and it will sit flush with the chain.

If the chain is okay, the tool will sit above the chain.

More expensive chain checkers can produce more precise readings. The most expensive tools are digital and work by installing the chain checker into the chain and opening up the tool until it hits the end of the link.

Not all chain checkers are compatible with the Flattop chains SRAM uses on its road and gravel eTap AXS 12-speed drivetrains. This is because the chains use oversized rollers. SRAM has a compatibility document on which tools will work.

How often should I replace my chain?

Different chains will have different wear limits, and with drivetrains now offering up to 13 speeds, there is a lot of variation in how worn a chain can be.

A 6 to 10-speed chain should be replaced when it measures 0.75 per cent on a chain checker. If it is stretched to 1 per cent, the cassette should be replaced with it.

11 to 13-speed chains should be replaced at 0.5 per cent on a chain checker. The chain and cassette should be replaced if it has stretched to 0.75 per cent.

Chains don’t wear evenly, so for the most accurate result, it’s best to take measurements on at least three different parts of the chain.

It’s worth noting that the manufacturer’s recommended wear limit can differ from the above.

Unfortunately, riding distance is not an accurate indicator of chain wear, and keeping a check on measurement is the best way to know if you should replace your chain.

Getting into a routine of regularly cleaning your bike chain will stop contaminants building up, which can act as a grinding paste in the drivetrain and accelerate the rate of wear. As well as degreasing and cleaning the chain, you need to dry it and then apply chain lubricant.

It’s worth incorporating checking your chain for wear into your maintenance regime.

You could also wax your chain, which can further protect it from wear-increasing contaminants. However, chain waxing is time-intensive and requires investment in kit and supplies.

What if my chain is already worn?

Exactly how much wear your chain has will dictate your available options. On terribly worn drivetrains, the teeth of the cogs will begin to look hooked from the chain wearing high on them. 

If you’re at this point, replacing just the chain isn’t really an option. Instead, you will have to replace the chain, cassette and likely your chainrings. 

If you continue to ride with an excessively worn chain, you also run the risk of it snapping. 

If your chain is slightly past the wear limit, you may be able to get away with replacing just the chain. Simply fit a new chain and if you experience any skipping on the cassette or chainrings, you know the old chain has worn the cassette and chainring and these now need to be replaced. 

If you continue to run a new chain on an old cassette or chainring, the chain will wear prematurely. 

There are some exceptions, such as on cheaper bikes, where it’s more economical to let the chain and cassette wear together and replace both in one go. It’s worth familiarising yourself with how much the particular components on your bike retail for before deciding your chain-replacement strategy. 

What is the best chain checker?

There are strong opinions on what style of chain checkers work, and which ones cause premature wear readings. Some claim chain checkers are susceptible to false reading by taking into account roller movement by pushing the pieces in opposite directions.

Drop-in style chain checkers from the likes of Shimano and Pedro isolate roller wear by measuring pin wear in the same direction. They are viewed widely as being accurate across all brands and speeds of chains.

Chain tension can affect the wear reading because the more tension you put through it, the higher the wear reading. On some of the newer style of chain-checking tools, such as Park Tool’s CC-4, the reading the tool supplies is also subject to hand pressure.

A dirty, or thickly lubricated chain will likely show as less worn than a clean chain, so for the most accurate wear reading, it’s worth cleaning your chain.

When comparing Shimano’s CN-42 checker to the likes of a Park Tool CC-3.2 and a KMC Digital gauge, we found the results to be broadly similar, signalling wear at about the 0.75 per cent point. For the identical Shimano Ultegra 11-speed chain, the KMC digital chain checker showed 0.89 per cent.

Ultimately, it’s more accurate to check a chain for wear using a specific tool than not to. A drop-in style tool will do the job well for almost all riders, but others will deem the increased accuracy of a digital gauge worth the price.

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Getting fitter and more aero, or splashing out on the latest superbike, are ways to go faster (or lighten your wallet), but few of us have the time or money.

Thankfully, some of the best bike upgrades present simple and often affordable ways to ride faster, further and in greater comfort.

In fact, some of the smartest upgrades will even save you money in the long run by preserving expensive parts.

Others, meanwhile, will see you spend less time fixing punctures on the side of the road, trail or track.

What’s more, unless your bike already has an impeccable spec, well-chosen upgrades can transform your ride, without breaking the bank.

Here are eight of the best upgrades you can make to your bike.

You can also check out our guide to the best road bike upgrades, with more tips for dedicated roadies, or head to our piece on the best MTB upgrades for specific mountain bike recommendations.

Eight of the best bike upgrades in 2022

1. Tyres

Quality tyres grip well and puncture infrequently, while upping your average speed. Simon von Bromley / Immediate Media

Whether you’re riding a road bike, mountain bike, gravel bike or hybrid, the most effective, affordable upgrade you can often make will be to change its tyres.

While there are exceptions, the tyres specced on off-the-shelf bikes can be underwhelming. It’s an easy area for bike brands to cut costs.

Cheaper tyres will usually deploy cost-saving measures such as using harder, less grippy rubber or a more basic construction with inferior puncture resistance.

Switching to a set of the best road bike tyres can make big improvements to the speed, comfort and handling of your bike.

This might also be an opportunity to convert to tubeless tyres. By ditching inner tubes, tubeless tyres can help stave off punctures and boost comfort by allowing you to running lower tyre pressures. We’ve got a guide to the best tubeless tyres for road bikes.

Upgrading your tyres can unlock new levels of riding. Rondo

Things get a little more complicated with mountain bike tyres, where there are countless options for different styles and conditions, but choosing a set of tyres that match your intentions on the bike can transform the ride.

The best gravel bike tyres sit somewhere between the two. If you’re riding a gravel bike, upgrading your tyres to something wider or grippier can help unlock more confidence on rough terrain, while a fast-rolling gravel tyre will boost your speed if the going’s less tough.

2. Handlebar tape

Wave goodbye to bad vibrations by upgrading your bar tape. David Caudery/Immediate Media

As the contact point between your hands and bars, handlebar tape is designed to provide shock absorption and grip.

The best handlebar tape is a cost-effective way to make your bike more comfortable – and breathe new life into a machine that’s feeling a bit tired.

Plusher tape will ensure fewer vibrations pass through the handlebars, so riding over broken surfaces and long days out are more forgiving on your hands, wrists and arms.

Plus, handlebar tape offers the opportunity to personalise your bars with cork or leather for a traditional look, or lively-coloured modern synthetics.

However, there’s a knack to fitting the stuff. Read our guide on how to wrap handlebar tape if you’re unsure.

3. Seatpost

Some seatposts, such as the Ergon CF Allroad Pro Carbon, are designed specifically to improve comfort. Ergon

The seatpost extends vertically from a bike’s seat tube and holds the saddle in place. By moving up or down, they also permit saddle height adjustment.

But, while the seatpost has a simple job on the face of it, don’t forget this humble component when it comes to upgrades.

Seatposts flex to varying degrees in order to protect your backside from jolts and vibrations.

Cheaper bikes tend to have alloy posts, which often provide a harsher ride than carbon equivalents.

Some seatposts, such as the Ergon CF Allroad Pro Carbon with its leaf-spring design, are also designed specifically to offer more flex than a typical post.

A lighter and more comfortable carbon seatpost is a smart upgrade at reasonable cost.

4. Saddle

A saddle with carbon rails is a worthwhile upgrade. David Caudery / Immediate Media

Saddles are another component that can be underwhelming on otherwise impressive bikes.

Saddle choice is highly personal, too, so replacing your existing seat with something more comfortable for your rear-end will make a big difference to your enjoyment on the bike.

Saddle design varies significantly from one model to the next, with varying levels of padding or features such as pressure-relieving cut-outs, while many saddles also come in a choice of widths.

Some saddles, meanwhile, are designed for a racier position on the bike, often with a shorter nose to allow you to get into a more aggressive, aerodynamic riding position.

As saddles are a highly personal choice, we recommend trying before buying, but our guide on how to choose a bike saddle will get you started.

5. Cleaning kit

Washing a bike is much easier when everything’s to hand. Tom Marvin / Our Media

Bike cleaning kits contain everything you need to keep your bike looking smart and running smoothly.

These typically include a bike cleaner, degreaser and chain lube. Brushes and sponges are also normally included for applying and removing the products.

Such kits are often worth more than the sum of their parts. They’re easy to keep tidy and organised for when you need to clean your bike after a ride.

Everyone wants a clean bike but, more importantly, keeping your bike clean will improve the efficiency of your drivetrain and preserve your components in the long run.

6. Service

A good service will have your bike running as new again. Allan McKenzie / SWPix.com

Regular servicing can iron out more minor niggles, such as squeaking brakes and mysterious creaks.

A good mechanic will spot signs of drivetrain wear that, if acted on, can save a lot of dosh down the line.

An ageing chain, for example, will chew through your chainrings and cassette.

Replacing the chain as it approaches its end is far cheaper than leaving it too late and having to buy expensive drivetrain parts.

A full service at your local bike shop should also look at often-neglected parts of the bike. Bearings in the rear hub and bottom bracket benefit from an occasional clean and grease.

While a service isn’t as fancy as a shiny new part, your bike will run like a dream after spending some time with a good mechanic, and it could save you money in the long run.

7. Bike fit

A professional fit can help you sit more comfortably on the bike. Immediate Media

If your bike isn’t the correct size – or it’s the right size but doesn’t offer a good fit – that’s an issue.

A correctly fitting bike is more comfortable and efficient, and therefore, more enjoyable to ride.

While most bikes offer a degree of adjustability, there are limits – and if yours is significantly too large or too small you may want to consider trading it in.

For less experienced riders, it’s a good idea to visit your local bike shop to ask for advice on how to perfect your position on the bike. If you’re looking to buy a new bike, a good shop will also be able to help you choose the right size and cover basic setup.

More advanced riders, or riders with specific niggles and fit requirements, may want to seek the advice of a professional bike fitter. These aren’t cheap, but some cyclists, whether racers or injury-prone recreational riders, swear by them.

8. Wheels

Wheels are often ripe for an upgrade. Simon von Bromley / Our Media

Okay, we’re getting into more expensive upgrades here, but wheels are another component ripe for switching, if your budget allows.

Some brands are prone to scrimping on wheels to lower the cost of complete bike builds. Many mid-range bikes roll out of the factory on wheels that don’t do the frame or rest of the build justice.

As a result, one way to improve the ride of your bike is to upgrade from its stock wheels, whether that’s to lower weight or improve aerodynamics.

Switching from alloy to carbon wheels, for example, is one of the pricier bike upgrades, but still much cheaper than a new bike.

The best road bike wheels are lighter, faster and increasingly compatible with wider tyres, adding additional comfort into the mix, too.

In addition, spare wheelsets may enable you to use the same bike, particularly a gravel bike, on a variety of terrain.

The post Eight of the best upgrades you can make to your bike – without breaking the bank appeared first on Ebikes Online.

A dirty bike is not a happy bike – riding about with your beloved bicycle entombed in filth will end up costing you precious watts on the road, as well as hard-earned cash through increased maintenance costs.

Cleaning your bike with a pressure washer can save you a great deal of time and effort over the traditional bucket and sponge, provided you do it safely.

In this step-by-step guide, we talk you through how to jet wash your road or mountain bike, and dispel some myths about pressure washing safety.

How to jet wash your bike – a step-by-step guide

Step 1: Remove and protect

Before you even turn the pressure washer on, remove anything you consider to be vulnerable from your bike.

This could include your GPS cycle computer, any luggage you don’t want getting soggy, and bike lights. If you have a permanently wired dynamo lighting system fitted to your bike, you may want to protect the headlight with a plastic bag.

If you have a leather saddle, a protective cover or plastic bag will prevent it from absorbing any water.

Step 2: First pass

Turn your pressure washer on and soak the bike all over, starting from a safe distance.

Gradually get closer until you can safely remove the majority of the muck and no further.

Unless you are using a lower-power pressure washer, avoid directing the jet of water into any areas that contain grease; stick to the main tubes and the tyres and rims.

Your bike’s headset, bottom bracket, hubs and rear derailleur are all particularly vulnerable, as are pedal axles and any electronic componentry. Likewise, avoid seals on suspension components.

If you’ve ridden through any animal excrement, be particularly careful when spraying this off your bike and seriously consider wearing eye protection because some can carry parasites that can cause blindness.

Step 3: Degrease

Now you have the lion’s share of the grime removed, apply degreaser to the crankset, chain, derailleurs and cassette.

Use a stiff brush to release stubborn grease and a chain cleaner to get those rollers running smoothly again.

If you’re using a spray degreaser, be mindful not to get any on your disc rotors or braking surface.

Step 4: Cleaning products

If there is any degreaser left on your drivetrain, it will degrade and remove any chain lube you add on afterwards.

Liberally apply cleaning products to the whole bike, especially the drivetrain.

Use a dirty sponge for the drivetrain and a clean one for the frame, seatpost, saddle and bar. Again, be careful to avoid flicking any greasy suds onto the disc rotors.

Step 5: Second pass

Use the pressure washer again to remove any soapy residue from the whole bike, this time at a slightly greater distance than before.

Any dirt should be loose and flow off easily by this point, so there’s no need to be close.

Step 6: Dry

Using a clean rag, give the chain a quick dry before leaving the bike to dry fully.

If you’re in a rush, an old towel will do the trick, but laying the bike driveside up in a sunny spot is just as effective if it’s not too cold.

Step 7: Lubricate and protect

Nobody likes the sound of a dry chain (and it’s less efficient), so don’t forget to apply your favourite lubricant and wipe off any residue following the manufacturer’s instructions.

It’s important you wipe off excess lube because it helps to stop your chain from getting contaminated with road grime or mud, which will put you straight back to square one.

If you want to have the most efficient (and cleanest) chain possible, you may want to consider waxing your chain.

As for the frame, prevention is better than cure. Applying a coat of protective compound before your next ride can save you precious washing time afterwards. It can also help keep your paint looking fresh.

Some protective compounds are aerosol-based (others are applied as a liquid with a microfibre cloth), which can contaminate your brake pads, so keep it away from your discs,

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It’s only a few years since disc brakes were anathema to many road riders. Pro riders were especially vociferous in expressing their disapproval – or, at worst, hatred – of the new braking technology.

Step forward to 2021 and all but one of the 19 teams (Ineos Grenadiers) look likely to be riding WorldTour bikes kitted out with discs.

That’s in part due to bike makers switching their output almost exclusively to disc brakes. But even teams, such as UAE Team Emirates, who have the option and were riding rim brake bikes last year have this year made the switch to disc brakes.

That switch away from rim brakes isn’t confined to premium models and has trickled down to budget road bikes too. They may have cable disc brakes rather than hydraulic systems, but you’ll find plenty of road bikes under £1,000 kitted out with rotors.

So what exactly are road disc brakes, and why all the fuss? Are they really any different from other recent advancements in bike technology? And which braking system comes out on top when comparing disc brakes and rim brakes?

• Disc brakes are now the default on road bikes – and no one cares

What are road bike disc brakes, anyway?

The most fundamental difference between traditional rim brakes and disc brakes is where the braking forces are applied.

As the name suggests – and just as it’s been done for decades – rim brakes clamp directly on to the sides of the wheel rim itself. In this way, the rim serves as a main structural component of the wheel, the mounting base for the tyre and the braking surface all in one.

In contrast, disc brakes move all braking duties to a separate rotor that is much smaller in diameter and mounted directly to the hub – much like everyday automobiles or motorcycles, and pretty much all other wheeled vehicles.

The brake caliper is still mounted to the frame and fork but is situated much closer to each wheel axle.

Another key difference is how each type of brake is usually operated. With a few rare exceptions, rim brakes are ‘cable-actuated’, meaning the levers are connected to the caliper with braided steel cables (bowden cables, to use the engineering term) that slide through some sort of housing.

You pull the lever, which then pulls on the cable, which then forces the caliper to clamp down on the rim.

Disc brakes are more often than not of the fully hydraulic variety, where the cable and housing are replaced by a non-compressible fluid and a hose in a fully sealed system.

When you pull the lever on a hydraulic brake, it pushes a plunger in a ‘master cylinder’, which then pushes that fluid through a hose to the caliper at the other end. That hydraulic pressure is what pushes the caliper pistons out and clamps the disc brake pads onto the rotor.

Like a rim brake, a cable-operated disc brake has a wire running to the brake mechanism, but in this case the cable pulls one or two of the pads in the caliper together to squeeze against the rotor.

Cable-operated disc brakes are cheaper and slightly less efficient than hydraulic disc brakes due to the friction and stretch in the cables, and are normally found on lower priced bikes.

Who makes road disc brakes?

SRAM was first to market with a disc-specific road bike groupset, although there were mechanical disc brake options from Avid and others available before its 2012 Red Hydro R came along.

That was followed in 2013 by Shimano and finally in 2016 by Campagnolo, so you can now find options from all the major road groupset manufacturers.

Initially disc brake options were limited, but all three brands have now trickled hydraulic disc brakes as an alternative to rim brakes into many of their groupsets. They’re also a feature of groupsets designed for gravel bikes, including Shimano GRX and Campagnolo Ekar, and single chainring drivetrains.

This means you can find disc brakes at a wide range of price points, including the top-tier Dura-Ace, Red and Super Record groupsets for Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo respectively.

The technology is also now available right down to cheaper options: Apex 1 for SRAM, Tiagra for Shimano and Chorus for Campagnolo. Shimano also offers a mechanical disc brake option for Sora.

Alongside hydraulic disc brakes from the big three, you can often find mechanical disc brakes on lower priced bikes: TRP (who also make the Hy/Rd mechanical/hydraulic hybrid caliper), Hayes and SRAM’s Avid brand are common options.

Disc brakes vs rim brakes: why disc brakes are better than rim brakes

Disc brakes offer several key advantages over rim brakes.

First, they generate much more stopping power, meaning there’s less force required at the lever to generate the same amount of deceleration as on a rim brake.

This can be a big help on long and steep descents where ‘arm pump’ can eventually set in, or for heavier riders who have struggled to find enough power from traditional brakes (the same issue applies to heavier bikes, such as touring bikes and tandems).

An added bonus is that braking power can be boosted (or tempered, depending on your preferences) by changing rotor sizes. A bigger rotor will increase the mechanical leverage and heat dissipation while a smaller one will save weight for riders who just don’t need the extra braking force.

Granted, stopping power on any wheeled vehicle is inherently limited by traction. And as many of you will know (possibly through painful experience), it’s already quite easy to lock up a wheel on a bike with rim brakes – which brings us to advantage number two: control.

Disc brakes offer better modulation than rim brakes, meaning it’s easier for the rider to precisely meter out how much clamping power is generated. Peak stopping power occurs just before the point of lock-up, and disc-equipped bikes are better equipped to flirt with that edge without crossing over. 

Disc brake power also tends to be more linear and predictable than on rim brakes, and it’s far more consistent in varying weather conditions, especially when compared with using rim brakes on carbon rims – a combination that yields notoriously poor performance in the wet, yet is also prone to overheating when dry.

Scott Sports

Another advantage of hydraulic disc brakes exploited by bike makers is that you’ll get the same braking efficiency regardless of how much the brake hose twists and turns.

That’s allowed bike brands to develop complex internal routing and increase front-end integration, with hidden cable and hose runs from brake levers to point of action, and associated aerodynamic improvements.

Disc brake wheel rims can also be made lighter than rim brake wheels. In a rim brake design, the need to handle the compressive force of the brake pads, the expansive force of the tyre and the heat generated by braking require greater strength and heat dissipation than a disc brake rim, where it’s just the tyre pressure that needs to be handled. It’s easier to optimise the rim’s aerodynamics when designing for disc brakes too.

Likewise, disc brake frames can be built differently to rim brake frames. While there’s a need to beef up the left fork leg and left-side chainstay, there’s less force acting on other parts of the frame, which can be thinned out.

Bike makers have also learned how to make disc brake bikes as aerodynamic or more so than rim brake bikes.

Disc brakes vs rim brakes: why rim brakes are better than disc brakes

The biggest advantage of rim brakes is weight. Although disc and rim brake components themselves aren’t very different weight-wise, once you add the rotor, the system weight of a disc brake setup is typically a few hundred grams greater.

However, as we’ve covered in the previous section, wheels and frames for the latest generation of bikes can compensate for this.

The simplicity of cable-actuated rim brakes has plenty of upsides, though. Parts are generally cheap and widely available, there’s a very high degree of compatibility between multiple brands and vintages.

Rim brake systems are easy to repair when needed – even on the side of the road, or in the middle of nowhere with limited availability of spare parts. Rim brakes are also easy to adjust, unlike some disc brake systems, where disc brake rub and squealing can be persistent issues.

On top of that, it’s worth pointing out that the latest rim brake systems are better than ever, particularly on mid to high-end groupsets, and provide plenty of stopping power on tap.

There was an aesthetic argument that rim brake bikes are in some way prettier than disc brake ones, which was widely held when disc brake road bikes started to appear.

We’d say that argument is now less relevant. The clean lines that disc brakes and internal routing allow, particularly around the front end of the bike, more than compensate for the rotor.

How disc brakes change road bikes

Cast aside the various conspiracy theories surrounding why the bike industry seems so hot on disc brakes. Of course, companies would love to sell more bikes and gear than they do now – that goes without saying.

However, history has repeatedly demonstrated that major changes in bike technology have only shifted the types of bikes and gear that people buy, not the grand total.

The fact of the matter is that the bike industry sees the road disc movement as a way to advance bike technology forward in a meaningful way in one big step. Bikes equipped with brakes that work better are safer, full stop (pun intended).

Without having to worry about accommodating a caliper, disc-equipped road bikes can more easily fit higher-volume tyres and wider rims for improved traction and performance on a more diverse mix of terrain.

That’s opened up the chance for road riders to fit much wider tyres, with 28mm or more now being the norm on many road bikes, in place of the 23mm tyres seen just a few years ago. It’s a change that can make for a much more comfortable, grippier ride, without a significant downside in speed or aerodynamics.

Since the seatstays no longer have to be reinforced to accommodate a rim brake, they can be made more flexible too, also augmenting comfort.

These changes are also driving the boom in gravel bikes and more capable endurance bikes. 

The move to disc brakes has come with a concurrent transition to thru-axles. Although it’s still faster to install and remove a wheel on a disc brake bike with quick-release skewers, there’s still too much variability in how the wheels fit into the frame and fork.

This can lead to issues ranging from annoying (pads rubbing on rotors) to terrifying (unanticipated wheel ejections under hard braking).

Thru-axles instead use closed dropouts that more consistently place the wheel in the same spot relative to the brake caliper, and are safer to use in general with less chance of user error.

They also provide a more rigid connection between the wheel and frame than quick-release hubs, so that a frame can be lighter without losing stiffness.

Road disc brake compatibility and standards

The switch to disc brakes means that bike makers have designed frames that are in general incompatible with rim brakes; you can’t fit disc brakes to a rim brake frame and you can’t swap from discs back to rim brakes, except in a few cases, such as the Wilier Cento10 NDR, which has been designed to allow you to fit either type of brake.

Disc brakes not only require dedicated fittings on the frame and fork for the caliper but, ideally, localised reinforcements to handle the added stresses applied.

Meanwhile, the wheels require hubs with either a six-bolt or Centerlock-splined interface to attach a rotor. Neither of these can simply be added after the fact.

There’s virtually no mixing and matching allowed between disc brake brands either, at least as far as hydraulic options are concerned. There’s a fair bit of flexibility for combining different makes and models of rim brakes, especially when you factor in smaller aftermarket brands, whereas disc brakes are much more limiting.

SRAM hydraulic disc brake calipers can only be paired with SRAM levers, for example, and the same goes for Shimano and Campagnolo.

Cable-actuated disc brakes from TRP, Paul Components, SRAM/Avid, Hayes and others offer more flexibility, but even then differing cable pull ratios between the various makes, models and even years of levers have to be considered for optimal functionality.

Implications for long-term maintenance and serviceability

Hydraulic mountain bike disc brakes have long been widely accepted in the off-road market, so there’s plenty of history to go on in terms of long-term maintenance and serviceability, and it’s a mixed bag.

On the one hand, hydraulic disc brakes are fully sealed from the elements and require little-to-no everyday maintenance – most of the time (cable-actuated disc brake maintenance is more in line with conventional rim brakes). There’s also no housing for grit to get into and no cables to fray.

As an added bonus, they even self-adjust for pad wear so the lever pull stays consistent over time. Aside from occasionally bleeding the system with fresh fluid – most companies recommend doing this about once a year – there’s not much to it.

Bleeding hydraulic systems does require special tools, with a full home kit running about £45 / $55 (plus a few extra for fluid annually). Alternatively, having a shop do it will cost about £40 / $60 each year, give or take.

Disc brake pads also tend to be slightly more expensive (about £50 / $80 vs £40 / $60 per full set of good ones), but the real-world differences are quite minor when you factor longevity into the equation. Keep in mind, however, that regularly riding in wet, gritty conditions can skew those figures dramatically.

Conventional rim brake cable and housing is far from cheap though, especially if you prefer to use higher-grade stuff (as you should…), so while rim brakes hold an advantage here, the differences aren’t as dramatic as they might seem.

If something actually breaks, however, rim brakes hold a big edge since it’s much easier to diagnose – and repair – a problem.

For most users, hydraulic disc brakes will be akin to electronic equipment: while you can often figure out an issue on your own, most cyclists won’t have the equipment or knowledge to do so.

If you’re the type to run things into the ground though, keep in mind that there are definite upsides to not subjecting your rims to regular wear.

Whereas it’s very expensive to replace a rim that’s been worn down from long-term braking, disc brakes only require a new rotor. Speaking of which, those rotors are also less likely to go out of true than a rim.

Will disc brakes replace rim brakes completely? Perhaps not. At the very least, rim brakes will likely live on with smaller brands and niche applications, but with mainstream brands, the tide has been turning towards discs for some time now. 

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